Brand New Hawk...Junk Bearing..Now Broke..

[kmmcrafts]

Yay.. The Hawk is back up and running again.. however somewhere I got mixed up on my testing and connections and wired it backwards so the slow speed was on high.. so.. I took it back apart and swapped the wires, LOL now it's correct.. Now.. to take it apart for the bearing swap.. but first.. I think I want to run it a little and see if it's better with just cleaning the bearing up and adding grease... Didn't run it tonight other than testing the switch..

 

Thank you all for the help,

 

[stoney]

On 10/6/2017 at 6:56 PM, kmmcrafts said:

While I also have been around wood equipment most all my life and have the same experience as you with the larger equipment.. that said though.. most of the larger equipment also had much larger bearing as well as sealed bearings.. 

As for the saws with open bearings.. They are very small bearings.. and not really much room for much grease... My issue with the DeWalt is I believe that the real fine dust gets into the bearings and soak up any of the liquid portion of the grease.. every time I rebuild that saw.. when i pull out the bearings / sleeves.. there is sawdust and grease mixture which created a real thick dried out paste almost so to speak.. I've taken the front portion of the saw apart several times in the 10 years I've owned it.. while I've only taken the back portion apart only once.. and never even replaced the bearings.. just cleaned them up and added synthetic grease.. Now the saw is finally getting noisy in the back part of the saw so it needs to be taken apart.. I'm hoping to get by with it at least through the busy part of this year.. It's quite a job ( not horrible but time consuming ) to do on these..  

Yeah Kevin I never owned a scroll saw with bearings like you are talking about.   I realize sealed bearings are more expensive and that must be why the bean counters don't allow them to be used.   Just wondering if sealed bearing are available the right size would the cost be prohibitive to replace the OEM one's?

[Rolf]

Glad to hear that the saw is running again.

Bearings are very inexpensive in the overall scheme of things.  The lower bearing on the Pitman arm is 3/8 by 7/8 and this is just one source. less than $5.

https://bearingsdirect.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=9R6&submit_search=

 

http://www.vxb.com/EEB3-2Z-Dia-9-525mm-OD-22-225mm-7-144mm-p/eeb-3-2z.htm

I have bought lots of bearings from VXB and have been very pleased.

[kmmcrafts]

6 minutes ago, Rolf said:

Glad to hear that the saw is running again.

Bearings are very inexpensive in the overall scheme of things.  The lower bearing on the Pitman arm is 3/8 by 7/8 and this is just one source. less than $5.

https://bearingsdirect.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=9R6&submit_search=

 

http://www.vxb.com/EEB3-2Z-Dia-9-525mm-OD-22-225mm-7-144mm-p/eeb-3-2z.htm

I have bought lots of bearings from VXB and have been very pleased.

Thanks Rolf.. but mine is bigger than a 7/8" while I haven't measured it yet.. I did write down the numbers (1616-2rs) from the seal when I had the seals off.. just did a quick search..that shows mine as 1/2 x 1-1/8 x 3/8.. Not sure if the one in the other end is the same... I plan to take the whole saw apart and just do a once over on all the bearings etc.. think I'll do the same with my old 220VS too.. but one at a time.. 

I have a local bearing supply that I'll most likely get my bearing from.. 

The vibration has almost disappeared since just cleaning up the bearing and adding grease.. but I never could get the bearing to work completely smooth so it definitely needs replaced..  

[Rolf]

Nice to have a local supplier, it makes things a lot easier even if it costs a bit more.

[kmmcrafts]

Just to update this thread a little.. since I had a very short break with not a lot of orders.. I ended up taking the motor off the saw to get the bolt out of the motor end of the connecting rod the other night.. turns out.. there is a set screw that holds the big aluminum block to the motor and I was able to put a allen wrench in the set screw to hold the motor from spinning to loosen that bolt.. once apart I went ahead and checked the bearing in the block as well.. all seams good with it.. looks like a big heavy bearing in that block.. much like a car wheel bearing design but slightly smaller.. The bearing on the motor end of the connecting rod was a little gritty as well.. I was tempted to just clean it up and add new grease.. But.. since I've got to replace the upper one.. I figured as much hassle as it was to take the thing apart.. I'll just buy two bearings and replace them both.. Probably won't be putting it back together for another week or more as I have some orders to make.. plus I'm not too enthusiastic about doing anymore work out there than needed with these single digit and negative temps.. we are going to have for the next week or so.. 

 

[amazingkevin]

On 9/30/2017 at 8:39 AM, kmmcrafts said:

As many of you know.. I have a new "Old" 1998 226 Hawk ultra.. This was still boxed when I bought it in May 2017..  Over the last couple of weeks using this it started developing a blade wobble.. almost identical to what Iggy's video was showing.. over the last week I have tweaked and adjusted everything I could think of.. finally last night I started taking things apart... turns out.. the bearing on the connecting rod (upper bearing on rod from motor to lower arm...lower arm end) doesn't spin freely and felt gritty when trying to spin it with my finger.. It's a sealed bearing (1616 rs ) so I popped the seals out.. there was absolutely no grease whatsoever in there.. I used to work in a bearing supply store... this happens a lot more than you would think.. makes me wonder about Iggys saw issue's.. could be a possibility..

So, I needed to take this connecting rod off.. ( yeah right ) you can hardly get room in there to get to the motor end of the rod.. so.. take out the power switch / speed control box.. not much room for that either.. this is where it gets bad.. I tried to pull the knob off the speed control for a little more wiggle room...snap.. broke the speed control.. long story but I am not able to get the hex screw out on the motor end.. not really knowing whether it might be left hand threaded or not.. but the real issue is trying to hold the thing from spinning while I put some torque on the hex screw.. cannot find any slot or spot to lock the motor from spinning..

Anyway.. I started putting things back together and was just going to soak the bearing down good with penetrating oil and I did get it working fairly free and packed it with synthetic grease.. put it back together to try it out.. but now that the knob broke off the speed control it's stuck on the lowest speed setting LOL.. so.. look down the hole of where the knob goes.. a slot look so I put in a straight screw driver ( saw unplugged of coarse LOL ).. spin it to to the other direction.. no change 

So now... finally.. my question.. anyone ever buy a speed controller for these? Price? I know HAWK sells these as a unit.. that said I believe if I can find the controller itself I can solder the new wires leads myself.. I just need to find the part, LOL ... I'll take it back apart and see if I can get any info of that speed controller.. I have a local electric motor repair shop not to far.. I know they will be able to fix me up..

BTW.. for what it's worth.. the saw is a 1998.. Hawk was using the made in China bearings in the saws back then too.. I know Hotshot mentioned a USA made saw with as he expected.. China made parts.. 

Also... while on this topic.. any tips to getting that hex screw out of the motor? I still intend to change the bearings.. they are not even a high grade China bearing LOL.. I think if I take the motor from the saw and put it on the workbench I can probably get it out.. just a PIA to work under the saw..

 

      

Boy ,When it rains it pours in your shop,sorry to hear all the problems your having.I dread re greaseing my dw788 for next years cuts.