Olson Blade questions. HELP

[Runa]

I have been trying to figure out which blade is right for most of what I am doing. What plain end blade would you use to do a pattern like these?

 

http://www.stevedgood.com/hummerart.pdf

http://www.stevedgood.com/filigreehummer.pdf

[kmmcrafts]

Guess I can't offer much help here since I do not use Olsen blades..

That said I'd do to things different than what Steve suggest as a wood thickness.. 3/4" for the backer is quite a hefty backer.. not trying to hang bricks on my wall... LOL I only looked at the first pattern.. since I am production cutting.. I'd be cutting the fret piece from 1/8 BB ply.. then I'd cut the backer out of 1/4 in Walnut or other contrasting ply or hardwood.. Since i ship out most my items I look for light weight for lower cost shipping etc.. 

I'd also cut out the fret pieces and then use a flat washer to draw out a slightly bigger piece for the backer 

Make it however suites your needs though..  I just rarely follow the rules / suggestions on patterns.. I make them suite my needs   

[Runa]

31 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Guess I can't offer much help here since I do not use Olsen blades..

That said I'd do to things different than what Steve suggest as a wood thickness.. 3/4" for the backer is quite a hefty backer.. not trying to hang bricks on my wall... LOL I only looked at the first pattern.. since I am production cutting.. I'd be cutting the fret piece from 1/8 BB ply.. then I'd cut the backer out of 1/4 in Walnut or other contrasting ply or hardwood.. Since i ship out most my items I look for light weight for lower cost shipping etc.. 

I'd also cut out the fret pieces and then use a flat washer to draw out a slightly bigger piece for the backer 

Make it however suites your needs though..  I just rarely follow the rules / suggestions on patterns.. I make them suite my needs   

Thank you Kevin. I agree on the backer board. Right now I am just cutting out of 1/4pieces (available cheap in big box so i had bought a big sheet to practice).

What size blades do you use most? Also what brand works best for you?

[kmmcrafts]

I mostly use a #3 or #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse or same numbers in the Pegas brand.. But.. I typically cut 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick material.. either by stack cutting 3-6 pieces at a time or just cutting solid wood at that thickness.. If only cutting one 1/4" board at a time you probably going to want a #1 or #3.. some people might even say a 0/1 which might be best for that thin of material.. I just don't use much of smaller blades myself so I don't usually have them on hand so I always make due with a#1 or #3..     

 

[MTCowpoke22]

I use Olson's, mostly because that's what I can find around here. I really like the #5 reverse tooth for thinner stock and the #7 for thicker stuff. I know others like the #2 a lot for thin stock. I've tried the #2, but haven't done enough with it to feel comfortable using it yet.

[Iguanadon]

I use Olson Mach Speed #3 for my puzzles cut from 3/4" poplar.  When I need to use a bigger blade, I like the Olson Precision Ground Tooth (#5 and #7)

[Runa]

Thanks for adding information. I have another newbie question.

 

I have No 3 olson blade but they are so delicate that I am bending them while changing slots. Is that okay? 

I can certainly feel like I need to use a different turning speed when using number 3 blades.

[WayneMahler]

Runa

I don't use Olson blades. But they have a blade chart on there website. I'll give you the link for it here . Others have seen this and I think it is a good place to start and also learn and grow. Best of luck.

[heppnerguy]

If I was cutting these in 1/4 inch thickness, I would go to an even smaller blade because the patterns contain some pretty delicate areas. My person preference would be a 2/0 reversible blade. but a #3 would work fine also. I would not go to the higher number blades  because, though they are heftier, they also are more aggressive and when turning corners on frail places it ups the chances for a breakage. I  would suggest that you put your saw speed about mid range, take your corners slowly and while turning corner pull  the wood slightly toward you so that the pressure of the blade is slightly against the back of the blade instead of the teeth of the blade. I hope you understand this comment. I think it will  help you if you do. You can run a blade all day in the wood and if you do not have pressure against the teeth, it can not cut the wood

 

Dick

heppnergiu

[jerry1939]

Hi Runa.  Almost everyone on this site disagrees with me on this.  I buy 2' X 2' luan (inexpensive) from Lowe's.  On anything even remotely fragile, I put a piece of luan behind the piece I am working on.  Run the grain in the opposite direction on each piece.  That adds a tremendous amount of strength to what you are working on.  On tiny pieces, it chips the sacrifice board and what you are working on stays fine.  Cheap insurance for the hours spent on some projects.

 

jerry

[SCROLLSAW703]

not ever' body disagrees w/ya, Mr. Jerry. I use luan for Christmas ornaments & other things. But I buy my luan in 4' x 8' sheets. I keep some 1/4" underlayment around, too. It has a lot of uses. 

As far as your Olson blades Runa, I use Olson & FD both. Some Olson blades are better than FD, & vice versa. Depending on the material you choose to cut the patterns in, if you go with 1/4" material, I certainly wouldn't go above a #3, & use ultra reverse or skip blades at a medium rate of speed. When buying blades, look at the dimensions of the blade. With fretwork, the thinner the blade you can use, the better off you'll be. jmo.

If you go with hardwood, say 1/2", I wouldn't be afraid to use a #4 skip tooth for the open cuts, & a #3 polar blade for the inside cuts. You can maneuver the #3 polar better, & it's a thinner blade therefore breakage & tear ups are less likely to happen. jmo from personal experience & use. Buy your wood carefully. Starting with good wood is a BIG plus!!!

Edited October 14, 2017 by SCROLLSAW703

[Roberta Moreton]

My favorites are Olson ultra reverse #3 & #5. I have a variety of others, those are just my favorites. 

 

[oldhudson]

Let me throw my 2¢ in, but note that I do not have nearly the experience that many SSV members have. (And let me add this one additional thought. In any cutting hand saw, table saw, dovetail saw blah blah...it's the blade that does the cutting so don't go cheap when purchasing blades.)  I use Olson blades mostly and I'd try the #2 for finer areas and #3 for the rest. Further as a someone getting started I purchase a range of sizes so they are on hand and you can quickly switch to a finer or more aggressive cut as the  pattern/stock calls for.

[oldhudson]

14 hours ago, jerry1939 said:

Hi Runa.  Almost everyone on this site disagrees with me on this.  I buy 2' X 2' luan (inexpensive) from Lowe's.  On anything even remotely fragile, I put a piece of luan behind the piece I am working on.  Run the grain in the opposite direction on each piece.  That adds a tremendous amount of strength to what you are working on.  On tiny pieces, it chips the sacrifice board and what you are working on stays fine.  Cheap insurance for the hours spent on some projects.

 

jerry

I don't use them at the scroll saw very ofter, I don't think my projects have called for them.... but I sure use them in the shop all the time. At the router table, cross cutting on the table saw and of course drilling. Backers prevent tear-out and anyone interesting in better looking projects should consider them.

[kywoodmaster]

On 10/13/2017 at 6:42 PM, Runa said:

Thanks for adding information. I have another newbie question.

 

I have No 3 olson blade but they are so delicate that I am bending them while changing slots. Is that okay? 

I can certainly feel like I need to use a different turning speed when using number 3 blades.

Are you sure that you have a #3 or do you possibly have a 3/0? I use Olsen blades and don't have any problem with the bending unless I try to force them through a hole that is too small. I do bend a lot of the 2/0 and 3/0 blades.

[ike]

I use #3 & #5 match baldes ( Olsons) I use baltic berch ply on orniments with either # 5 on baltic it is a harder ply and you con cut only stacking 2 , Baltic ply is .245 thick and the cheeper ply from HD and Lowes is .185 which is 3/16 thick. Baltic makes a orniment look much nicer. dthe baltic isn't much higher in cost than the better ply's at lowes I can get baltic ply for $20 for a 5X5 sheed and the lowes is $18 to $20 for a 4X8 sheet that is $0.17 difference. the output quility is worth it.

IKE

Edited October 15, 2017 by ike

[poupster2]

I Use exclusively Olson blades. If you use soft wood like Iggy does (Poplar, pine) the Mach speed are great. #3 or #5. But for hard wood Like Maple, Cherry, Walnut or Oak, I use Olson PGT #5, #7 or# 9. Depending on the thickness of the wood.

For the Filigree hummingbirds, I would cut it on a 1/4" or 3/8" thick Oak, oak ply or BB.  The blade I would use would be #5 or #7 PGT (Precision Ground Tooth). they leave an almost polished cut and would need very little sanding. 

For the Hummingbird pattern, If you cut it in 1/4",  the the same blades as above. If cutting from 3/4" hard wood, I would use #7 or #9 PGT. 

Those are my preferences and the blades that I trust the most!.

[Bill WIlson]

Like I've said before, you can give 6 veteran scrollers the same project, using the same wood and they will each use a different blade.   

My go-to blade, of the Olson persuasion, for general fretwork with a fair amount of detail is the Mach Speed #3.  For really fine detail, in thinner material I would use a #2 or #2/0 reverse tooth blade.  However, I've been using more FDUR blades lately and wouldn't hesitate to cut that with a #1 FDUR.  See?  I can't even agree with myself which blade I would use.