Universal wood oil

[Tramsey4]

Is there a specific wood oil and brand that works for all types of wood? I use birch plywood, MDF,  and knotty pine mostly for my projects. I am heading to HD soon and need advice on oil selection that will last for a good while.

[MrsN]

I wouldn't use oil on MDF. MDF is essentially sawdust and glue bonded under heat and pressure. The cut edges of MDF will soak up a lot of finish so a film finish is usually desired. When dealing with straight edges many people seal the edges with glue before painting. 

I would personally pick up a spray can of poly or clear acrylic spray. 

[Paladin]

I like using watco danish oil when I have something that I want to use oil on.  I agree with the above post - I wouldn't use oil on mdf.

 

Steve

[jerry1939]

I finish everything with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel.

It requires a lot of ventilation & stays out of the house for 3 days because of the glue smell.

jerry

[Bill WIlson]

You can put anything on anything, but you may not get the results you want.  As others have said, I would not use an oil on MDF.  MDF is best painted.  Birch ply and knotty pine are prone to uneven absorption which can lead to blotching. What is it that you are trying to achieve?  One reason there are so many finishing products out there is that there are so many variables to consider.  Will the piece be exposed to weather?   What kind of appearance do you prefer?  Are you trying to change or maintain the natural color of the material?  How much protection from abrasion, moisture or household chemicals does the piece require?  What sort of application methods are you equipped to or prefer to employ?  There are more, but you get the idea.

 

[Tramsey4]

1 hour ago, Bill WIlson said:

You can put anything on anything, but you may not get the results you want.  As others have said, I would not use an oil on MDF.  MDF is best painted.  Birch ply and knotty pine are prone to uneven absorption which can lead to blotching. What is it that you are trying to achieve?  One reason there are so many finishing products out there is that there are so many variables to consider.  Will the piece be exposed to weather?   What kind of appearance do you prefer?  Are you trying to change or maintain the natural color of the material?  How much protection from abrasion, moisture or household chemicals does the piece require?  What sort of application methods are you equipped to or prefer to employ?  There are more, but you get the idea.

 

All my scroll pieces are for internal usage. I use rustoleum black spray paint on mdf (didn't clarify that earlier). I want that golden brown finished look instead of raw. I stain with minwax on some pieces. I have been told tung and teak oils make raw finished scrolls look really good but I don't know what's best for the wood I use.

 

[Tramsey4]

Alright so after a bit of research I have learned that tung, linseed, and danish are what applies more to the work I am doing. Thoughts on preference?

[Bill WIlson]

Straight oils like tung and linseed are usually modified somewhat to make them practical for finishing purposes.  In their complete, raw state, they take forever to dry.  Linseed oil is usually sold as boiled linseed oil (BLO).  They really don't boil it anymore, but the point is, it's been modified by the addition of metallic driers so that it will cure completely in a reasonable amount of time.  I'm not sure if there is a version of tung oil sold with metallic driers added or not.  If tung oil is used as an ingredient in another type of finish, it likely has driers added.

Now there are several products called "tung oil" finishes, but some don't even contain any real tung oil and none are pure tung oil.  If one is looking for actual tung oil, look for a product that states it is "100% pure tung oil", right on the can.  Pure tung oil or linseed oil is typically used as an additive to other products to create a "home brew" style finish, which brings us to Danish oil.  Though the exact ingredients and proportions are proprietary, products called Danish oil are usually a blend of an oil (usually BLO), varnish and mineral spirits, in roughly equal proportions.

The differences between these types of products may be important to you.  Straight drying oils will impart an amber tint to the wood, but, once cured, provide no sheen and very little surface protection.  They tend to get dull looking over time.  They really aren't considered a stand alone finish, but some folks use them as such.  Since there is a little varnish in Danish oil finishes, they provide a little more sheen and surface protection.  Depending on what you are finishing and how you are applying, the Danish oil is more of a traditional finish and provides a nice, hand rubbed appearance. 

Manufacturers use names and descriptions that are intentionally misleading.  There may be some products called Danish oil (or Antique oil or Tung Oil finish) that are nothing more than varnish, thinned about 1:1 with mineral spirits to make a wiping varnish.  Others are the oil/varnish/solvent blend I described above.  One way to tell is by reading the application instructions on the can.  If it says to wipe on and leave dry, it's likely a wiping varnish.  If it says to wipe on, allow to set for a few minutes, then wipe the excess off, then it's likely an oil/varnish/solvent blend.

I know, this is confusing.  Manufacturers have made it that way in their marketing efforts to distinguish themselves from the competition. 

Probably more than you asked for, but hope this helps.

[Tramsey4]

5 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

Straight oils like tung and linseed are usually modified somewhat to make them practical for finishing purposes.  In their complete, raw state, they take forever to dry.  Linseed oil is usually sold as boiled linseed oil (BLO).  They really don't boil it anymore, but the point is, it's been modified by the addition of metallic driers so that it will cure completely in a reasonable amount of time.  I'm not sure if there is a version of tung oil sold with metallic driers added or not.  If tung oil is used as an ingredient in another type of finish, it likely has driers added.

Now there are several products called "tung oil" finishes, but some don't even contain any real tung oil and none are pure tung oil.  If one is looking for actual tung oil, look for a product that states it is "100% pure tung oil", right on the can.  Pure tung oil or linseed oil is typically used as an additive to other products to create a "home brew" style finish, which brings us to Danish oil.  Though the exact ingredients and proportions are proprietary, products called Danish oil are usually a blend of an oil (usually BLO), varnish and mineral spirits, in roughly equal proportions.

The differences between these types of products may be important to you.  Straight drying oils will impart an amber tint to the wood, but, once cured, provide no sheen and very little surface protection.  They tend to get dull looking over time.  They really aren't considered a stand alone finish, but some folks use them as such.  Since there is a little varnish in Danish oil finishes, they provide a little more sheen and surface protection.  Depending on what you are finishing and how you are applying, the Danish oil is more of a traditional finish and provides a nice, hand rubbed appearance. 

Manufacturers use names and descriptions that are intentionally misleading.  There may be some products called Danish oil (or Antique oil or Tung Oil finish) that are nothing more than varnish, thinned about 1:1 with mineral spirits to make a wiping varnish.  Others are the oil/varnish/solvent blend I described above.  One way to tell is by reading the application instructions on the can.  If it says to wipe on and leave dry, it's likely a wiping varnish.  If it says to wipe on, allow to set for a few minutes, then wipe the excess off, then it's likely an oil/varnish/solvent blend.

I know, this is confusing.  Manufacturers have made it that way in their marketing efforts to distinguish themselves from the competition. 

Probably more than you asked for, but hope this helps.

So what would you go for to keep a nice finished look but stay true to the wood look while keeping the timing of application/drying to a minimum?

 

[Tramsey4]

I've seen where some use spray lacquer and it takes no time at all as well. 

[MrsN]

In my opinion pine isn't worth the effort to stain. I would just put a coat of poly to get the amber color and run with it. It can be hard to stain because of the knots changing the grain structure. The stain will likely get darker in some spots and lighter in other. A coat or two of poly will give you a nice warm amber color.

My favorite finish for getting things just a bit shiny and finished looking is Rust-Oleum 2x clear spray paint. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Gloss-Clear-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249117/100670438  It drys quick and is clear which help if you have paint colors you want to keep (it doesn't give that warm amber tone to wood, just looks wet) My favorite part is that it is typically about half the price of spray poly.

[amazingkevin]

10 hours ago, jerry1939 said:

I finish everything with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel.

It requires a lot of ventilation & stays out of the house for 3 days because of the glue smell.

jerry

Lol.good excuse jerry to go to the bar!

[amazingkevin]

10 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

You can put anything on anything, but you may not get the results you want.  As others have said, I would not use an oil on MDF.  MDF is best painted.  Birch ply and knotty pine are prone to uneven absorption which can lead to blotching. What is it that you are trying to achieve?  One reason there are so many finishing products out there is that there are so many variables to consider.  Will the piece be exposed to weather?   What kind of appearance do you prefer?  Are you trying to change or maintain the natural color of the material?  How much protection from abrasion, moisture or household chemicals does the piece require?  What sort of application methods are you equipped to or prefer to employ?  There are more, but you get the idea.

 

good straight info!

[amazingkevin]

2 hours ago, MrsN said:

In my opinion pine isn't worth the effort to stain. I would just put a coat of poly to get the amber color and run with it. It can be hard to stain because of the knots changing the grain structure. The stain will likely get darker in some spots and lighter in other. A coat or two of poly will give you a nice warm amber color.

My favorite finish for getting things just a bit shiny and finished looking is Rust-Oleum 2x clear spray paint. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Gloss-Clear-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249117/100670438  It drys quick and is clear which help if you have paint colors you want to keep (it doesn't give that warm amber tone to wood, just looks wet) My favorite part is that it is typically about half the price of spray poly.

girl how i forgot what your saying .this was my go to for years!

[amazingkevin]

2 hours ago, MrsN said:

In my opinion pine isn't worth the effort to stain. I would just put a coat of poly to get the amber color and run with it. It can be hard to stain because of the knots changing the grain structure. The stain will likely get darker in some spots and lighter in other. A coat or two of poly will give you a nice warm amber color.

My favorite finish for getting things just a bit shiny and finished looking is Rust-Oleum 2x clear spray paint. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Gloss-Clear-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249117/100670438  It drys quick and is clear which help if you have paint colors you want to keep (it doesn't give that warm amber tone to wood, just looks wet) My favorite part is that it is typically about half the price of spray poly.

You and i click!

[Karl S]

I know this is beating a deal horse, BUT always remember to never leave any oily rags wadded up and laying in your shop, either put them in a can covered with water or spread them out flat to allow them to dry before disposing of them since they are a fire hazard. Always be safe. We don't want anyone to lose their home or shop or worse their lives.

[Lucky2]

I usually use Watco's Danish oil or their boiled linseed oil (BLO), both do a good job and look nice when applied.

Len

[blights69]

On the materials you are using I would go simple and opt for a matt or gloss spray lacquer it will work fine on the materials you are using and dries in no time at all. I do use tung oil it takes a while to dry and has a smell I am not to keen on bit does make cheap old pine look ok it depends on your time limits to get the item finished I would buy some tester pots and do a load of sample pieces and see what suits you best  every one is different in what they like etc. If you are just looking to seal it and keep it looking as it was finished spray it frame it out it is my rule

Great info from @Bill WIlson on the breakdown of different finishes you gotta love this site it is like a huge encyclopedia of know how you learn something new everyday 

 

Edited October 24, 2017 by blights69

[Tramsey4]

Thanks everyone. I got some Watco Danish Oil last night then applied to my pine cutout. Didn't turn out too bad but I definitely want to try the spray poly that @MrsN mentioned.The oil takes forever it, super messy, and is hard to get in the fretwork. Here's how it looks so far.

.

[Tramsey4]

12 hours ago, MrsN said:

In my opinion pine isn't worth the effort to stain. I would just put a coat of poly to get the amber color and run with it. It can be hard to stain because of the knots changing the grain structure. The stain will likely get darker in some spots and lighter in other. A coat or two of poly will give you a nice warm amber color.

My favorite finish for getting things just a bit shiny and finished looking is Rust-Oleum 2x clear spray paint. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Gloss-Clear-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249117/100670438  It drys quick and is clear which help if you have paint colors you want to keep (it doesn't give that warm amber tone to wood, just looks wet) My favorite part is that it is typically about half the price of spray poly.

What brand of spray poly would you recommend? I already have some of the clear spray that I never thought to use but I'm intrigued with spray poly to get that amber color.

[Bill WIlson]

This is where the preferred application method is almost as important as the finish itself.  Fretwork presents unique challenges to finishing that aren't present in other forms of woodworking.  A finish that does a great job on a wooden table may not be all that great for a fretwork piece, such as the one you made.  Dipping fretwork is probably the simplest method of applying a finish.  It's easier to get complete coverage, but not all finishes lend themselves to dipping.  Finishes with a high oil content (ie. BLO and Danish oil) work best because they soak into the wood and don't build up a film finish.  They dry slow, so the excess can be dealt with before it creates problems.  If you like the look of the oil or oil/varnish blend, then great.  Problem solved. 

If you want more of a film finish look that adds a little gloss to the appearance, then dipping can be problematic.  Film finishes don't lend themselves readily to dipping because they are meant to be applied in thin layers that build up on the surface of the wood.  Some dry very fast, so trying to manage the excess finish in the frets can be a challenge.  Wiping or brushing can present similar problems.  You can control the amount of finish being applied, but getting it into all the frets is tedious.  This is why I advocate spraying shellac on fretwork, where a film finish is desired.   Again, no single finish is the best for all situations.  Much like blades, you need to learn the relative strengths and weaknesses of the products that are available in order to determine the best alternative for you.

[Bill WIlson]

19 minutes ago, Tramsey4 said:

What brand of spray poly would you recommend? I already have some of the clear spray that I never thought to use but I'm intrigued with spray poly to get that amber color.

An alternative might be to dip the piece in BLO to get full coverage and bring out that amber tint.  Then, once it has fully cured, (may take several days, depending on conditions) you can spray the surface lightly with an oil based poly.  Just beware, not all clear sprays are the same.  For example, I would hesitate to use a waterborne acrylic spray or even a lacquer over top the BLO.  There could be compatibility problems and the finish may end up being cloudy if the BLO isn't absolutely, completely cured.

[Tramsey4]

13 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

This is where the preferred application method is almost as important as the finish itself.  Fretwork presents unique challenges to finishing that aren't present in other forms of woodworking.  A finish that does a great job on a wooden table may not be all that great for a fretwork piece, such as the one you made.  Dipping fretwork is probably the simplest method of applying a finish.  It's easier to get complete coverage, but not all finishes lend themselves to dipping.  Finishes with a high oil content (ie. BLO and Danish oil) work best because they soak into the wood and don't build up a film finish.  They dry slow, so the excess can be dealt with before it creates problems.  If you like the look of the oil or oil/varnish blend, then great.  Problem solved. 

If you want more of a film finish look that adds a little gloss to the appearance, then dipping can be problematic.  Film finishes don't lend themselves readily to dipping because they are meant to be applied in thin layers that build up on the surface of the wood.  Some dry very fast, so trying to manage the excess finish in the frets can be a challenge.  Wiping or brushing can present similar problems.  You can control the amount of finish being applied, but getting it into all the frets is tedious.  This is why I advocate spraying shellac on fretwork, where a film finish is desired.   Again, no single finish is the best for all situations.  Much like blades, you need to learn the relative strengths and weaknesses of the products that are available in order to determine the best alternative for you.

Interesting. What's different between spray poly and shellac? I see on home depot's site they only offer clear shellac spray but offer amber brush/wipe on. 

I'm mostly focused on something that's easy to apply, natural to amber like color, and dries in a fair amount of time. I'm sure you all know when someone requests a craft, it becomes a timing issue.

[Scrappile]

2 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

This is where the preferred application method is almost as important as the finish itself.  Fretwork presents unique challenges to finishing that aren't present in other forms of woodworking.  A finish that does a great job on a wooden table may not be all that great for a fretwork piece, such as the one you made.  Dipping fretwork is probably the simplest method of applying a finish.  It's easier to get complete coverage, but not all finishes lend themselves to dipping.  Finishes with a high oil content (ie. BLO and Danish oil) work best because they soak into the wood and don't build up a film finish.  They dry slow, so the excess can be dealt with before it creates problems.  If you like the look of the oil or oil/varnish blend, then great.  Problem solved. 

If you want more of a film finish look that adds a little gloss to the appearance, then dipping can be problematic.  Film finishes don't lend themselves readily to dipping because they are meant to be applied in thin layers that build up on the surface of the wood.  Some dry very fast, so trying to manage the excess finish in the frets can be a challenge.  Wiping or brushing can present similar problems.  You can control the amount of finish being applied, but getting it into all the frets is tedious.  This is why I advocate spraying shellac on fretwork, where a film finish is desired.   Again, no single finish is the best for all situations.  Much like blades, you need to learn the relative strengths and weaknesses of the products that are available in order to determine the best alternative for you.

Bill, I like the info you gave, but it made me wonder, on fret work why not dip the piece in shellac, as opposed to spraying?  Don't you have the same problem with getting coverage in the frets, spraying shellac?  Could you dip in shellac, blow out the excess from the frets and wipe it off the face of the project?  I have not done this, just wondering.  There would not be nearly as long a wait time for it to dry and then spray on the whatever. 

Also mixing the BLO 50/50 with Mineral Spirits works good and cuts down some on the cure time.

I also never read of anyone using Deft Clear Wood Finish as a top coat.  I know it is not available in some places anymore, but it is what I use most for a top coat.  Does a great job, dries quickly. 

I love this place.  I almost didn't read this thread, because this topic has been discussed many times, but, I did read most of it and yep, I learned some things again. 

[Scrappile]

One other finish that I love and rarely see it used, maybe because it is not really a "finish", is buffing with Tripoli and than buffing on a wax.  I did this with the Cherry 2nd Amendment plaque I made and after displaying the last Hamsa I made, on here, I decided I didn't like the look. It was Cocobolo , which is dense and oily wood.  I had applied no finish because it is so hard to know what to use on it.  So I did the buffing finish.  It really took it up a notch.  I use a lot of Cocobolo on the street organ I built and it is all buffed and waxed.  Still looks great after four years.  On some woods, as long as they are not going to be handled a lot, more for display, it is a beautiful, rich looking way to finish them.