Quick question on Bee's wax

[rdatelle]

Hi everyone, just wondering if some of you use Bee's wax for a finish and how do you use it. Right now I dip a lot of things in mineral oil and let it dry and wipe it down good.  I think Dan had mentioned that he uses Bee's wax also. Can I put that on mineral oil to give it a little shine.

 

Edited November 8, 2017 by rdatelle

[fredfret]

I use a bees wax and mineral oil mix for toys going to kids as it is completly non toxic. It does not give a real shine but more a satin finish with the smell of honey. I mix 1 quart mineral oil with 1 lb bees wax in an old pan heated over a hot plate out back when all melted together I pour into plastic butter containers saved with the lid and cleaned out very well.

Fredfret

Wichita, ks

[rdatelle]

Thanks Fred. What type of bee's wax do you use. Is it in block form or liquid and how do you apply it. Is it like a paste wax, you put it on and then buff it out.

[scrollerpete]

I used bees wax on all my bowls that I made, mine came in a container just like paste wax.

I used a paper towel and apply a very good amount on the bowl rubbing the wax in, let it dry overnite and reapply 2 more coat and buff in between.

All my bowls sold with the condition that they are safe for food

[Lucky2]

Pete, are your bowls turned or are they scrolled, there is a big difference in how you apply a finish to each type of work. The only soft beeswax that I know of, is mixed with mineral oil or some other sort of thinner/softener. Beeswax is more of a turners type of finish, it can be applied then buffed while spinning on the lathe. I would think that to apply beeswax to a piece of scrollwork, would be a miserable job to get it evenly spread and then buffed. I don't really know because I've never used it on scrollwork, but I have had great results using it on turned items.

Len

Edited November 8, 2017 by Lucky2

[rdatelle]

So your saying that If I mix my beeswax with mineral together, then apply and buff, I can eliminate dipping my pieces in straight mineral first. I'm confused.,

Edited November 8, 2017 by rdatelle

[kmmcrafts]

I use beeswax and mineral oil on most all my work other than my portraits.. why I use it? because there is no strong smell.. and.. once applied I can package the item right away and ship it out..

I bought a 5lb. block of beeswax ( would get pellets next time ) I mix 1/2 cup packed firm shaved ( I use a cheese grader.. try it then you'll see why I say I'll get pelleted next time LOL) to a 16oz bottle of mineral oil.. and as stated above cook it up just enough to get the wax melted..WARNING: use a cooking thermometer that clips onto the pan and set it 1/4" above  the bottom of the pan.. DO NOT let the temp get above 150F as the oil and wax can cause a flash fire.. I put it into some plastic containers and let it cool then screw the tops on for storage. When dried it turns into a paste type wax.. I like it a little thinner.. first time I made it.. I think I use 1/2 cup to 8oz mineral oil and it set up pretty solid.. I used to pack the wax quite firm.. now not quite so much.. If it get too solid add more oil and cook it again or vise versa..  

I apply it to my work with small metal handled acid brushes from Harbor Freight.. Try to push it into the cutouts as best I can but what can't get back in the small areas.. I leave a little glob of it.. then take a hairdryer / heat gun and heat it slightly to melt the wax into the areas.. while it's still all melted.. I use paper towels to wipe off the excess and also somewhat polish it.. I use the blue shop type towels as they work better.. get a big bundle several rolls from our local Sams club..

 

  

  

Edited November 8, 2017 by kmmcrafts

[Dan]

Yes, like Kevin does. I love the sheen it adds to some woods. I mixed a bunch up years ago to put on our cutting boards and still use it but only on occasion. 

[rdatelle]

Thanks everyone for the great tips. I will try it. Dan, I sent you a message a couple of days ago. Not sure if you got it or not.

[Runa]

11 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I use beeswax and mineral oil on most all my work other than my portraits.. why I use it? because there is no strong smell.. and.. once applied I can package the item right away and ship it out..

I bought a 5lb. block of beeswax ( would get pellets next time ) I mix 1/2 cup packed firm shaved ( I use a cheese grader.. try it then you'll see why I say I'll get pelleted next time LOL) to a 16oz bottle of mineral oil.. and as stated above cook it up just enough to get the wax melted..WARNING: use a cooking thermometer that clips onto the pan and set it 1/4" above  the bottom of the pan.. DO NOT let the temp get above 150F as the oil and wax can cause a flash fire.. I put it into some plastic containers and let it cool then screw the tops on for storage. When dried it turns into a paste type wax.. I like it a little thinner.. first time I made it.. I think I use 1/2 cup to 8oz mineral oil and it set up pretty solid.. I used to pack the wax quite firm.. now not quite so much.. If it get too solid add more oil and cook it again or vise versa..  

I apply it to my work with small metal handled acid brushes from Harbor Freight.. Try to push it into the cutouts as best I can but what can't get back in the small areas.. I leave a little glob of it.. then take a hairdryer / heat gun and heat it slightly to melt the wax into the areas.. while it's still all melted.. I use paper towels to wipe off the excess and also somewhat polish it.. I use the blue shop type towels as they work better.. get a big bundle several rolls from our local Sams club..

 

  

  

Thank you for the details Kevin. I am thinking of making puzzles amd uaing this. Would probably use it on all work if that works out.

[Phantom Scroller]

I make my own wax from a block and a cheese grater mixed with baby oil smells lovely the more oil the softer it sets. Roly

[scrollerpete]

16 hours ago, Lucky2 said:

Pete, are your bowls turned or are they scrolled, there is a big difference in how you apply a finish to each type of work. The only soft beeswax that I know of, is mixed with mineral oil or some other sort of thinner/softener. Beeswax is more of a turners type of finish, it can be applied then buffed while spinning on the lathe. I would think that to apply beeswax to a piece of scrollwork, would be a miserable job to get it evenly spread and then buffed. I don't really know because I've never used it on scrollwork, but I have had great results using it on turned items.

Len

My bowls are cut on the scroll saw and I used a buffer on my drill press to do the job

[Bill WIlson]

1 hour ago, Phantom Scroller said:

I make my own wax from a block and a cheese grater mixed with baby oil smells lovely the more oil the softer it sets. Roly

Just a comment regarding the baby oil.  Many folks use mineral oil on wood utensils, such as cutting boards, bowls, etc, because you can actually ingest it and it's perfectly safe for contact with food.  Baby oil is simply mineral oil, but with fragrance added.  I have no idea if the additives used to create the fragrance might interact unfavorably with food.

[Phantom Scroller]

5 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

Just a comment regarding the baby oil.  Many folks use mineral oil on wood utensils, such as cutting boards, bowls, etc, because you can actually ingest it and it's perfectly safe for contact with food.  Baby oil is simply mineral oil, but with fragrance added.  I have no idea if the additives used to create the fragrance might interact unfavorably with food.

Simple answer Bill if your not happy using it then don't use it but as they cover babies in it do you think there would be anything untoward within it. ??? I haven't use it on cutting boards yet. Roly

[Bill WIlson]

I have no idea, but I do know that the question of what to use on cutting boards, kids furniture, toys, etc comes up regularly on various WW'ing forums I visit.  It's been stated several times, on all these forums that, by law, finishes sold in the USA are non-toxic once cured.  People still raise concerns about it.  I had never considered the possibility of using baby oil, but the thought popped into my head that perhaps it might not be a good thing to use for food contact items, it we don't know exactly what is in it.  I guess my biggest concern would be that the fragrance additives might make the lettuce in my salad taste funny. 

Also, just because we've slathered babies with it for years doesn't necessarily mean it's harmless.  Remember baby powder? 

Edited November 9, 2017 by Bill WIlson

[blights69]

On 09/11/2017 at 12:42 PM, Phantom Scroller said:

I make my own wax from a block and a cheese grater mixed with baby oil smells lovely the more oil the softer it sets. Roly

What sort of quantity do you use Roly if you do not mind saying, I will be making my own after this ready made tub is finished  

[kmmcrafts]

6 minutes ago, blights69 said:

What sort of quantity do you use Roly if you do not mind saying, I will be making my own after this ready made tub is finished  

I'd think since the baby oil is no more than mineral oil it'd be the same quantity as those I mention above..  I'm not sure on the exact size of my containers I use.. but my mixture makes enough to fill up 2 and just a small amount in the third container.. Thinking the containers are pint sized ones.. 

[blights69]

32 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I'd think since the baby oil is no more than mineral oil it'd be the same quantity as those I mention above..  I'm not sure on the exact size of my containers I use.. but my mixture makes enough to fill up 2 and just a small amount in the third container.. Thinking the containers are pint sized ones.. 

Thanks Kevin I am on the hunt for a block (no pellets) of bees wax as I type 

[kmmcrafts]

1 minute ago, blights69 said:

Thanks Kevin I am on the hunt for a block (no pellets) of bees wax as I type 

LOL, Have fun grading wax.. it goes quite hard compared to grading cheese.. I'd opt for the pellets.. but that's your call... I got my 5lb block about 4-5 years ago.. and it's just about gone.. can't wait to be lazy and do it the easy way, LOL 

[blights69]

14 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

LOL, Have fun grading wax.. it goes quite hard compared to grading cheese.. I'd opt for the pellets.. but that's your call... I got my 5lb block about 4-5 years ago.. and it's just about gone.. can't wait to be lazy and do it the easy way, LOL 

Yea pellets it is lol life is too short and I think I may be in trouble if I use the grater 

[Phantom Scroller]

I

3 hours ago, blights69 said:

What sort of quantity do you use Roly if you do not mind saying, I will be making my own after this ready made tub is finished  

Frank I use a bake bean tin and fill half full of grated beeswax and add quarter of baby oil then drop the tin into a pan of hot water until it melts then pour it into small plastic containers with a lid on but let it cool first. It's then like buying your standard wax polish. I buy my block of wax from the nearest bee keeper and one block will last you years. 

[blights69]

12 hours ago, Phantom Scroller said:

I

Frank I use a bake bean tin and fill half full of grated beeswax and add quarter of baby oil then drop the tin into a pan of hot water until it melts then pour it into small plastic containers with a lid on but let it cool first. It's then like buying your standard wax polish. I buy my block of wax from the nearest bee keeper and one block will last you years. 

Thanks Roly am on the hunt for a local keeper over the weekend sure there is a fella up by the allotments that keeps bees I will see when I am up there with the dog later easy recipe too baked bean can half and then quarter and melt in the tin too so saves me trying to explain to her indoor the pan will be fine out of the cupboard too every ones a winner  

[Dan]

Frank, make sure your tin cans don't have a liner in them. We baked some beans in the can and they had a plastic, chemical taste. Come to find out the can had a thin plastic lining to help preserve the contents. Needless to say there were a lot of beans left over. 

Edited November 11, 2017 by Dan

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Dan said:

Frank, make sure your tin cans don't have a liner in them. We baked some beans in the can and they had a plastic, chemical taste. Come to find out the can had a thin plastic lining to help preserve the contents. Needless to say there were a lot of beans left over. 

I think most cans now days do have the liners.. and they are actually hard to see.. Think they coat them with some sort of spray in liner.. so it's very thin and hard to tell.. There is no harm in using a regular cooking pan either.. just wash it out good.. but then.. I also do use a dedicated pan I picked up at a yardsale.. anyway.. both the mineral oil and the beeswax is not harmful if ingested. which is why many use this for toys.. LOL  

[Phantom Scroller]

5 hours ago, Dan said:

Frank, make sure your tin cans don't have a liner in them. We baked some beans in the can and they had a plastic, chemical taste. Come to find out the can had a thin plastic lining to help preserve the contents. Needless to say there were a lot of beans left over. 

You have posh cans over there Dan ours are just tins no liners in them. I use them for paint tins when I'm up a ladder you can drill them and hook some wire through to hang on the runs so it's not an issue over here.  Roly

PS : You tins are massive over there we have dainty little spoons here.

Edited November 11, 2017 by Phantom Scroller