Sam777 Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 (edited) Hello all, I made a name plaque for someone graduating from as a PA and I used 1 coat of Natural Danish Oil on it. Would Varnish or Polyurethane adhere to it now? This is my first name plate I make Size: 9" wide x 2-1/4" total height. I appreciate your comments Thank you Sam Edited November 19, 2017 by Sam777 Phantom Scroller, MTCowpoke22 and Lucky2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Very well done name plate. I am far from an expert in finishing, but I think if you let it sit for several days maybe a week or so that either one well work. I have sprayed poly over several pieces that I dipped in MS/BLO, but I have always waited at least a week before I spayed it. Now please wait for other input, l am no expert. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Nice looking name plate. Given that it's an item that just sits, I'd not attempt a top coat (maybe another coat of the oil). However, if you really want a gloss look or you think it needs protection, I'd wait a week to 10 days even, in sunny California. Then carefully read all the info on the top coat you choose and follow the directions. Just my 2¢ Scrolling Steve and tomsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Very nice. I like it just as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaughn Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 (edited) My go-to finish is natural Watco Danish Oil followed by wipe-on poly. I allow time to let the Danish Oil soak in thoroughly and then wipe it down. I use compressed air to blow out any cavities that may have trapped the oil. My rule is to let the danish oil to dry for 72 hours before applying the wipe-on. Once the Danish is dry, I apply very thin coats of the wipe-on poly allowing 2 hours for each to dry before applying the next. I apply five coats and then apply the 6th coat using a small square of 320 grade wet or dry sandpaper to level any dust nibs. I then gently rub this still wet coat with my fingers (I use nitrile gloves) to even it out and achieve a soft rubbed appearance. Edited November 19, 2017 by Blaughn Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianr24 Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 I think Danish oil is just a mix of blo,poly, and mineral spirits or another solvent. But in any case I agree let dry very good. And if there is any question u can always hit it with de wax shellac and then put whatever u want on it. Good luck and very nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Danish oil is a mix of poly, blo, and mineral spirits and driers. Wait 72 hours and no problems. By the way nice job with the sign Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Thank you all for the comments and advice. So is the wipe- on poly the gel type? How would you get that in the cranies of fret work? Thanks Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Yes you can use it Sam, and you should get a nice finish with it. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 10 hours ago, Sam777 said: Thank you all for the comments and advice. So is the wipe- on poly the gel type? How would you get that in the cranies of fret work? Thanks Sam Wipe-on poly generally refers to a thinned poly that can be hand rubbed in, much like a traditional oil finish. For all intents and purposes, it's no more than regular oil based poly, thinned about 50/50 with mineral spirits. Gel poly is a different animal. It's has a thick, almost paste like consistency and is a little more difficult to use on fretwork. Getting finish inside the frets is most readily accomplished by dipping the piece. This may or may not work well with wipe-on poly, because while it is thin, it is still a film finish and you may have some problems with finish accumulating in the crannies. Since you have already applied a Danish oil to it, I would be inclined to simply spray a couple coats of shellac on top. Again, make sure you allow adequate time for the Danish oil to dry. The advantage of using spray shellac over poly is that you won't get a thick build up of the finish layer, which may interfere with the fit of the pieces. Also, the shellac dries very fast, so you can spray light coats from multiple angles to hit all of the visible surfaces. If you don't get complete coverage inside all the deep recesses of the frets, you really won't be able to tell. In fact, I would probably concentrate on just applying the top coat to just the flat surfaces and not try to get too much in the frets. You already have Danish oil in there, so it will look finished. tomsteve and NC Scroller 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Thank you Bill for the detailed explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 7 hours ago, Lucky2 said: Yes you can use it Sam, and you should get a nice finish with it. Len Thank you Len. I will show the finished piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonylumps Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Yes Shellac is a great sealer for any kind of top coat.Or a couple of coats by it self with very light sanding in between coats is a nice finish. Not as durable as poly But I do not think that piece will get much handling.It is one of those you could look. But no touch.It is really a nice cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 On 11/20/2017 at 12:05 PM, tonylumps said: Yes Shellac is a great sealer for any kind of top coat.Or a couple of coats by it self with very light sanding in between coats is a nice finish. Not as durable as poly But I do not think that piece will get much handling.It is one of those you could look. But no touch.It is really a nice cutting. On 11/20/2017 at 12:40 AM, Lucky2 said: Yes you can use it Sam, and you should get a nice finish with it. Len Thank you Len. I will show the finished piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 I have another question: When using Danish oil, do you let the piece air dry by itself or wipe it with cloth ot blue shop towels? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Follow the directions on the can. May be slight differences based on brand, but generally you would apply the first coat liberally, allow it to soak in. Wait a period of time (30 minutes or so), then reapply. After a few minutes then wipe all excess off and buff dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 Sam, it depends on how I apply it, I usually do wipe the excess off though. I lay any projects that I can fit inside and below the edges of a cookie sheet, then I slowly pour the danish oil over it. There's no choice, but to wipe the project off after pouring the finish on. If I spray the danish oil on, there's no excess so I don't have to wipe the project off. My main reason for dipping the projects, is that I mostly do fretwork and I like to have finish applied to the inside cuts. I really don't like the look of a piece of fretwork, when there is no finish on the inside cuts. The bare wood on inside cuts, makes the project look unfinished to me. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 19 hours ago, Sam777 said: I have another question: When using Danish oil, do you let the piece air dry by itself or wipe it with cloth ot blue shop towels? Thank you I love Danish oil and use Watco all the time on most of my projects. I use the dip method. I have a plastic container that they use for storing things. It depends on the amount of projects that need to get dipped will depend on the size container I use. I have a few different designated for just this. I dip and let sit for about 5 to 10 minutes making sure the piece is submerged or at least turned over occasionally. Take it out and let it drip on the lid of the container. Will eventually dump excess back into the can. After about 1/2 hour I wipe it down with a soft cotton cloth and set off to dry. I try to do this outside on nice days so that the fumes are not bad and drying is quick. After a few hours sitting outside I bring into my basement where I have either a rack set up or a line where I can hang things. I again wipe them down and just let them dry for 4 to 5 days. I make sure things are OK and there is no bleeding of the oils out of the pores. If so just wipe again. After that I take each piece and apply Watco satin polish and the next day buff to a nice soft sheen. To me the key is sanding to 220 grit to give the piece a nice feel. I strictly use red oak so this works for me very very well. To me no need to dip more than once. Phantom Scroller and Lucky2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 14 hours ago, Bill WIlson said: Follow the directions on the can. May be slight differences based on brand, but generally you would apply the first coat liberally, allow it to soak in. Wait a period of time (30 minutes or so), then reapply. After a few minutes then wipe all excess off and buff dry. Tahnk you Bill, again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 46 minutes ago, Lucky2 said: Sam, it depends on how I apply it, I usually do wipe the excess off though. I lay any projects that I can fit inside and below the edges of a cookie sheet, then I slowly pour the danish oil over it. There's no choice, but to wipe the project off after pouring the finish on. If I spray the danish oil on, there's no excess so I don't have to wipe the project off. My main reason for dipping the projects, is that I mostly do fretwork and I like to have finish applied to the inside cuts. I really don't like the look of a piece of fretwork, when there is no finish on the inside cuts. The bare wood on inside cuts, makes the project look unfinished to me. Len Thank you Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 19 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: I love Danish oil and use Watco all the time on most of my projects. I use the dip method. I have a plastic container that they use for storing things. It depends on the amount of projects that need to get dipped will depend on the size container I use. I have a few different designated for just this. I dip and let sit for about 5 to 10 minutes making sure the piece is submerged or at least turned over occasionally. Take it out and let it drip on the lid of the container. Will eventually dump excess back into the can. After about 1/2 hour I wipe it down with a soft cotton cloth and set off to dry. I try to do this outside on nice days so that the fumes are not bad and drying is quick. After a few hours sitting outside I bring into my basement where I have either a rack set up or a line where I can hang things. I again wipe them down and just let them dry for 4 to 5 days. I make sure things are OK and there is no bleeding of the oils out of the pores. If so just wipe again. After that I take each piece and apply Watco satin polish and the next day buff to a nice soft sheen. To me the key is sanding to 220 grit to give the piece a nice feel. I strictly use red oak so this works for me very very well. To me no need to dip more than once. Thank you JT. I did just what you described yesterday on piece of red oak. How does that saron watco polish get in the little cravrces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Sam777 said: Thank you JT. I did just what you described yesterday on piece of red oak. How does that saron watco polish get in the little cravrces? Not looking for it to get in fret work. Looking to put a satin feel to top layer. You do not feel the fret work. I wish I could convey the look easier but if you look at the solid wood you will see a warm glow to it and the feel is smooth. I love it. My customers do too. When you use Danish oil it has poly in it so it will leave the fret work with a slight gloss anyway. Especially if you use a blade that cuts smooth and I like to use FD #5 silver penguin reverse for most all my cuts. Edited November 23, 2017 by JTTHECLOCKMAN Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 On 11/22/2017 at 6:01 PM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: I love Danish oil and use Watco all the time on most of my projects. I use the dip method. I have a plastic container that they use for storing things. It depends on the amount of projects that need to get dipped will depend on the size container I use. I have a few different designated for just this. I dip and let sit for about 5 to 10 minutes making sure the piece is submerged or at least turned over occasionally. Take it out and let it drip on the lid of the container. Will eventually dump excess back into the can. After about 1/2 hour I wipe it down with a soft cotton cloth and set off to dry. I try to do this outside on nice days so that the fumes are not bad and drying is quick. After a few hours sitting outside I bring into my basement where I have either a rack set up or a line where I can hang things. I again wipe them down and just let them dry for 4 to 5 days. I make sure things are OK and there is no bleeding of the oils out of the pores. If so just wipe again. After that I take each piece and apply Watco satin polish and the next day buff to a nice soft sheen. To me the key is sanding to 220 grit to give the piece a nice feel. I strictly use red oak so this works for me very very well. To me no need to dip more than once. Thank you JT. I did just what you described yesterday on piece of red oak. How does that saron watco polish get in the little cravrces? I can definitely see the satin smooth finish on your piece. Thank you for the explanation. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted December 4, 2017 Report Share Posted December 4, 2017 On 11/19/2017 at 1:36 PM, Sam777 said: Hello all, I made a name plaque for someone graduating from as a PA and I used 1 coat of Natural Danish Oil on it. Would Varnish or Polyurethane adhere to it now? This is my first name plate I make Size: 9" wide x 2-1/4" total height. I appreciate your comments Thank you Sam Very nice effect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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