Cutting Out Puzzle Pieces

[Old McDonald]

I am trying to cut out Animal Puzzles and finding difficulty in getting the Blade to cut the puzzle pieces so that they fit together when attaching from the top and the bottom. The puzzle pieces are a little bigger on the back side ,so the pieces only go together from the back side. I have tried realigning the blade with no luck. I am using the #1 Blade. I have OCD and this is driving me "Nuckin Futs", LOL

Thanx in advance for all assistance in correcting this issue, Guy

[fredfret]

1) make sure your blade is at 90 deg to the table. 2) add a little bit of tension to the blade normal at 3 add to 3.5 as an example. 3) do not have any push to the side as it causes the blade to bow and a bulging cut. Hope this helps. I don't recommend a "puzzle" blade as they are prone to bow in thick wood. I use #3 or #5 for this type puzzle.

Fredfret

Wichita, Ks

[orangeman]

My "go-to blade" for your type of puzzles is the Pegas modified geometry #5 blade!

bb

[amazingkevin]

On 12/6/2017 at 11:12 AM, Old McDonald said:

I am trying to cut out Animal Puzzles and finding difficulty in getting the Blade to cut the puzzle pieces so that they fit together when attaching from the top and the bottom. The puzzle pieces are a little bigger on the back side ,so the pieces only go together from the back side. I have tried realigning the blade with no luck. I am using the #1 Blade. I have OCD and this is driving me "Nuckin Futs", LOL

Thanx in advance for all assistance in correcting this issue, Guy

One good blade check is take a block of wood and cut a 1/16th deep cut in it then turn the wood upside down and see if the blade falls right in.If it does your righ n the money for doing puzzles the come apart front or back.

[jbrowning]

I use a FD UR #5 for kids puzzles and the FD UR #3 for the harder puzzles?

[ike]

It looks like you may be useing pine for yur puzzles. I use Popular it is easier to work with and the squareness of the blade is real important , I use an old combinaation square head to dheck squareness I use white paper in back of the blade and get the blade as square as I possibly can, The speed I use is on the high end, blades don't last as long but it helps and is worth the blade. do not force the blade and you will have no problem.

IKE

[Iguanadon]

As others have mentioned, with 3/4" thick wood, you need a thicker blade.  I use #3 Olson Mach Speed, but many folks use a #5 blade.  The thinner the blade, the more "flex" that occurs as you're making turns and that's what causes the issue you're having.  Good luck, let us know how it goes.

If you're still having issues, don't drive yourself crazy checking and double checking if your blade is perpendicular to the table, try tilting it slightly to one side, test again, and if that doesn't work, tilt it the other direction and then test again.  Keep testing until you find the "sweet spot"

[tomsteve]

reads like either table not square to blade or forcing the wood into the blade. gotta let the blade do the cutting. checking square is pretty simple- i think theres a video or 2 on YT that shows the process.

[NC Scroller]

You have received a lot of great advice above.  Let me throw in one more tidbit.  Pine is not a good choice for novice puzzle makers.  It has very pronounce grain patterns and your blade will tend to follow the grain.  Try following the advice you received and cut it out of poplar or basswood.

[Dan]

Guy, check the front to back alignment. Some saws (like my old Delta P-20) are designed for a more aggressive cut and the blade is tilted slightly forward at the top.

I had the same issue and it drove me nuts. I ended up putting shims where the saw table mounts to the saw frame. It now cuts very well and my puzzle pieces fit great.