My Compound Cut Ornaments

[Sycamore67]

Here are a couple of ornaments that I cut from 1-1/4” blocks of Red Oak and Ash.  They were cut using the PS Wood Super Sharp #7.  After cutting they were hand sanded and also sanded using a Mac Mop.  The finish is a dip in Natural Danish Oil.

I glue the pattern on the block with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive.  I sometimes use clear tape but have gotten away from using it.  There are times when the tape lifts from the edge of a cut and makes it difficult to see the line.  After I have cut on one side, I will use a couple of small drops of wood glue on the edges and clamp it back together.  This provides a secure block for cutting the other side of the ornament.  I know that some swear by the use of clear tape to help “lubricate” the blade but I have not found a clear advantage for it.  This is another example of whatever works for you….keep doing it.

This is the setup that I use for compound cutting.  The jig is spring loaded and uses some long 10-24 machine screws.  The spring loading helps keep the pressure on the wood block during the entire process.  You can see in the picture the  ¼”Loc-Line for blowing the dust off and the ¾” dust pickup on the opposite side.  This really helps capture the dust at the source.  The dust pickup is connected to a Festool Vacuum. 

[Scrappile]

Nice ornaments, nice cutting setup.   Only thing I think you need to do now is make a larger auxiliary table top and a "Quick-clamp" for the top clamp although the one you have probably work to the same purpose for you.  I love the one I put on my Hegner.

Edited December 8, 2017 by Scrappile

[CharleyL]

They look great !!!!  Compound cutting at it's best. Fun, isn't it ?

Here is a tip, if you plan to continue compound cutting  -     After you do compound cutting for a while with your present clamp, the regular steel all thread that you are using will begin to stretch and bend. I now use 10-32 stainless all thread because it doesn't bend and stretch as easily, and because the 32 pitch thread lets me get the clamps tighter than when using the 10-24 all thread. The springs are nice, but I don't bother using them any more. My students were catching them in the saw blades and it was hard on the springs as well as the blades. 

 

Charley

[Sycamore67]

With the 10-24 machine screws and springs, I am not even beginning to approach the point of them stretching.  I also do not have students to worry about and have never caught a blade on the machine screws or springs.  With sandpaper on the inside of the jig, the parts I am cutting do not come loose so they are plenty tight with the springs.  

[bobscroll]

They look really nice! Great job! Thank you for the photo's,

Bob  

[meflick]

Nice work and thanks for the info. on your jig.  Always interesting to see and hear how others have done theirs and to hear discussions as to why or why not on something like that.  thanks for sharing.

[Scrolling Steve]

Those turned out really nice!....Well done !

[wombatie]

You did an excellent job on those.  I agree with you about the clear tape, the only time I use it is when I am stack cutting.

Marg

[daveww1]

very nice job

[CharleyL]

I once tried strips of sandpaper in the clamps, but loose grit from the sandpaper, falling onto the saw table left scratches as the work and clamp were moved over them, so I quit using the sandpaper. The stretching and bending of the all thread takes a long time and many uses of the clamp before it becomes obvious. It doesn't happen quickly, but eventually you will notice it and I recently had some of the stainless all thread begin to bend, but I have been using this clamp heavily for the past two years. If it bent because of the stress of tightening, it has taken much longer that the steel all thread,. I guess that I won't know for certain until it happens again.

 I don't mean these suggestions to be criticism in any way. You are doing great, but eventually, if you continue to do compound cutting, my tips may be of help to you or someone else who reads them.

Charley 

[Sycamore67]

The jig that I am using with the machine screws and springs will not bend the screws or deform them.  The springs help keep the tension low enough that I am not even beginning to exceed the yield strengths of the material.  As a metallurgical engineer who made steel for many years, I have a pretty good grasp on what is going on what will cause deformation.  If you simple tighten the machine screws against the jig and blocks, it would be quite easy to damage the screws.  I do not do it that way.

As for using strips of abrasive,  I am using a high quality abrasive that does not seem to shed any of the grit on my table.  Maybe you are using the wrong abrasive.  Yes, I have checked a number of times and am not scratching my table or found any grit on the table.

I do not mean my comments to be a criticism of the way you are doing things or your analysis, but my way works just fine also.  It just shows that there is no one exact way to do things and people will develop their own techniques.  The important thing is that the block you are cutting is held securely.  

[dgman]

Larry, I to use sandpaper to line the inside of my cutting jigs without any problems. I do not use all thread though. I use carrage bolts. I don't have any issue with them deforming. I use them on several sizes of jigs I have.

[Rockytime]

This compound cutting is interesting and I would like to try it. What woods work well for this and where do you find patterns. I have not perused the various pattern vendors tho but I will. Many thanks for all the postings.

[Sycamore67]

There have been some ornaments in the Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts magazine.  I would pick something easy for your first try.  Also a softer and cheaper wood would be best to start.  I know I made quite a few going into the trash to start with.  Just a lot of small skills to learn.  Even getting the pattern on your block correctly takes a little practice.

There is another thread with lots of good hints in it you should read.

Good Luck with it.

Edited December 9, 2017 by Sycamore67

[Rockytime]

Thanks, I'll give it a try. I have a 12" Craftsman and 9" HF band saw. One of them should work.

[amazingkevin]

On 12/8/2017 at 10:46 AM, Sycamore67 said:

Here are a couple of ornaments that I cut from 1-1/4” blocks of Red Oak and Ash.  They were cut using the PS Wood Super Sharp #7.  After cutting they were hand sanded and also sanded using a Mac Mop.  The finish is a dip in Natural Danish Oil.

I glue the pattern on the block with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive.  I sometimes use clear tape but have gotten away from using it.  There are times when the tape lifts from the edge of a cut and makes it difficult to see the line.  After I have cut on one side, I will use a couple of small drops of wood glue on the edges and clamp it back together.  This provides a secure block for cutting the other side of the ornament.  I know that some swear by the use of clear tape to help “lubricate” the blade but I have not found a clear advantage for it.  This is another example of whatever works for you….keep doing it.

This is the setup that I use for compound cutting.  The jig is spring loaded and uses some long 10-24 machine screws.  The spring loading helps keep the pressure on the wood block during the entire process.  You can see in the picture the  ¼”Loc-Line for blowing the dust off and the ¾” dust pickup on the opposite side.  This really helps capture the dust at the source.  The dust pickup is connected to a Festool Vacuum. 

terffic looking ornaments!!!