OCtoolguy Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 I've been watching this one for a while now. Can anybody look at it and tell me what I might have to add to it to bring it up to date? I like the price. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/d/scroll-saw-rbi-hawk-220-vs/6416047248.html Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 That deal seems as good as the previous Hegner deal to me. I would jump on it. It has the front tension release which would be a winner for me. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredfret Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 I'm not sure that serial number has the adjustable aggressiveness that the ultras have. Tuesday call bush ton /hawk woodworking they can tell you for sure. I can't get the manuals page to open on my computer and the phone doesn't have enough memory. Fred fret Wichita OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted January 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Thanks Guys. Just the stuff I want to know. I look at it and they all seem to look alike. I do know to look at the side of them to see if they only have an on/off switch or the speed control too. My Hawk from 85 was a two speed but it required a belt change. That's the main reason I sold it. I just can't keep up on all the add-ons and so on to know if it's a good deal. I don't want to buy something and then have to spend a ton of money to upgrade it. I'll call Bushton on Tuesday. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 It is a little older year because of the barrel type blade holders. Not a bad thing but they have gotten better over the years. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 If and when you call, ask then about the motor. There are older ones that can not have the motor replaced without sending the saw to them and have an expensive retrofit. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Not real sure what all you want to know about it.. but by the serial number I'd say it's a 1994-1995 model.. due to the barrel clamps it's not an ultra.. so it doesn't have the adjustable blade positions for aggressive cutting.. Not too sure about the motor issue.. you'll need to call Hawk on that one.. I only know that it's newer than my 1993 because my serial number is 23059.. I think it was 1996 when the ultras came out.. The motor issue was with a certain brand motor.. and I believe the issues with them is the speed controller rather than the motor itself.. but.. because the motor is wired to the controller and the company that makes the motor is no longer in business the only option is to replace both motor and controller as a unit.. I'm betting a good electric motor shop could wire up a new $5 - 10 controller.. Issues with the motor itself.. might be an issue for parts etc.. but then.. not a whole lot to a small electric motor either...so again.. a good motor shop should be able to fix you up... Bushton would fix you up but that would be a $350 bill for the motor plus you have to send them the saw... I think the older motor brand is Fasco or something like that?? maybe someone else knows.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted January 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 What I am trying to determine Kevin is, over the years, each manufacturer adds/changes things on their saws. Without a playbook to go by, it's hard to keeep track of what improvements have been added. So, I figured that those of you who have been using these saws would have kept track of what to look for, what to consider as viable additions, and so on. All those things add cost to bring a saw up to speed. From the point of purchase, how much will a person have to figure on spending to trick out his older saw? Now, if the saw already has all the bells and whistles, the regular buyer wouldn't know it. So, I am asking the question of what you folks see on the saw and what would I have to add to it to bring it up to current day specs. If it is too much, then I might as well just buy a new one. The same questions come to mind with a Hegner. They have some great improvements over the years but to the casual buyer, we don't know what all they are. Thanks to all of you who have replied. It's great to know you are all trying your best to help. Ray kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Well, any Hawk with the round lower blade clamp doesn't have the adjustable blade aggression.. ( If that matters to you ).. saw will cut great without this.. if.. you aren't used to a aggressive cutting saw.. The Ultra saws ( I believe 1996 and newer ) saws have a different lower blade clamp and you can ( for the Ultras and Maybe later saws ) position the lower clamp in two different slots on the lower arm.. front slot for thin ( less aggressive cutting ) and the other for thick wood ( aggressive) cutting.. I personally find for "me" the front slot not quite aggressive enough and the other slot a little too aggressive.. Again.. my style cutting etc.. this would be different for each type of work and type blades used and many other factors.. For a hobbyist just looking to go out and "play" I don't see where this would be a huge issue I suppose..( from my perspective ) but.. I don't do a lot of different style cutting.. Hotshot likes a saw that have about a complete straight vertical for cutting the coins.. as small as the coins are and the detail he puts into them... I see why he wants a saw set up like that.. For a hobbyist.. doing fretwork style cutting.. I think any older Hawk would be just fine.. as for updating a old Hawk to the newest features etc.. I wouldn't say doing it would be at all worth it.... I'd just mainly look for a older Hawk at a good deal and not worry about the bells and whistles..etc short of maybe staying away from one with that older motor that had issues.. unless you think you have the ability for retro fit a new motor on one yourself.. or good motor shop to help you do that.. If the price is sweet enough I'd buy one with the older motor, which I have with my old 220VS I figured for $100 I wasn't going to get burnt too bad if it stopped working shortly after I got it.. I just was looking for some cheap experience with a Hawk.. to see if maybe a better newer model would be worth the additional money.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted January 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 16 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: Well, any Hawk with the round lower blade clamp doesn't have the adjustable blade aggression.. ( If that matters to you ).. saw will cut great without this.. if.. you aren't used to a aggressive cutting saw.. The Ultra saws ( I believe 1996 and newer ) saws have a different lower blade clamp and you can ( for the Ultras and Maybe later saws ) position the lower clamp in two different slots on the lower arm.. front slot for thin ( less aggressive cutting ) and the other for thick wood ( aggressive) cutting.. I personally find for "me" the front slot not quite aggressive enough and the other slot a little too aggressive.. Again.. my style cutting etc.. this would be different for each type of work and type blades used and many other factors.. For a hobbyist just looking to go out and "play" I don't see where this would be a huge issue I suppose..( from my perspective ) but.. I don't do a lot of different style cutting.. Hotshot likes a saw that have about a complete straight vertical for cutting the coins.. as small as the coins are and the detail he puts into them... I see why he wants a saw set up like that.. For a hobbyist.. doing fretwork style cutting.. I think any older Hawk would be just fine.. as for updating a old Hawk to the newest features etc.. I wouldn't say doing it would be at all worth it.... I'd just mainly look for a older Hawk at a good deal and not worry about the bells and whistles..etc short of maybe staying away from one with that older motor that had issues.. unless you think you have the ability for retro fit a new motor on one yourself.. or good motor shop to help you do that.. If the price is sweet enough I'd buy one with the older motor, which I have with my old 220VS I figured for $100 I wasn't going to get burnt too bad if it stopped working shortly after I got it.. I just was looking for some cheap experience with a Hawk.. to see if maybe a better newer model would be worth the additional money.. Thanks for all your sage advice. I'm not afraid to gamble a few bucks on an older saw but what I am really worried about is the method of blade containment and tensioning. I don't want to have to buy all the upgraded methods that have been added to the newer saws. I'm gaining quite a bit of knowledge as I study the different manuals that Bushton has put online. And, also, I don't want to get into a single speed saw or one that requires belt changing. So, now, it's just a matter of watching what comes along in my area and doing the comparisons. Thanks again. Ray kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Well as far as blade clamps go.. only way to " upgrade" those is you'd have to replace the lower arm.. as the barrel clamp and the newer clamping is different.. I have both a barrel clamp and a square type clamp with a roll pin through it.. I cannot say either one is any more of a pain to do / learn over the other.. maybe the newer square type one is slightly easier.. The saw in the link looks like a nice saw.. Biggest worries I'd have with it is the motor.. otherwise the saw has the options you most wanted... it is a variable speed one..has the tension lever at the front of the saw.. only thing I see that would get changed.. is I'd upgrade the blower hose and or.. hook up some sort of vac instead of blowing it in the air.. I upgraded my older one to the flex hose and it's long enough to blow the sawdust to the side and or toward the back of the saw.. the way those older hoses are just clamped to the saw aiming the sawdust right toward you was why I upgraded that part on mine.. The kit was bought from Bushton.. but.. to do over and the price of the kit.. I'd probably try to build me a vacuum system instead.. Edited January 1, 2018 by kmmcrafts OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted January 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 32 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: Well as far as blade clamps go.. only way to " upgrade" those is you'd have to replace the lower arm.. as the barrel clamp and the newer clamping is different.. I have both a barrel clamp and a square type clamp with a roll pin through it.. I cannot say either one is any more of a pain to do / learn over the other.. maybe the newer square type one is slightly easier.. The saw in the link looks like a nice saw.. Biggest worries I'd have with it is the motor.. otherwise the saw has the options you most wanted... it is a variable speed one..has the tension lever at the front of the saw.. only thing I see that would get changed.. is I'd upgrade the blower hose and or.. hook up some sort of vac instead of blowing it in the air.. I upgraded my older one to the flex hose and it's long enough to blow the sawdust to the side and or toward the back of the saw.. the way those older hoses are just clamped to the saw aiming the sawdust right toward you was why I upgraded that part on mine.. The kit was bought from Bushton.. but.. to do over and the price of the kit.. I'd probably try to build me a vacuum system instead.. Thanks, that's what I was wanting to find out. I may just have to throw a crazy offer at the seller. It's been there for a while. Ray kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevan Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 15 hours ago, octoolguy said: Thanks, that's what I was wanting to find out. I may just have to throw a crazy offer at the seller. It's been there for a while. Ray That's how I got mine. Low-balled an offer to someone who bought it new 25 or so years ago and then never used it. And this may be sacrilegious but I use JET lower blade holders instead of Hawk brand. About $20 for 3 on Amazon. They work fine and there is no evidence that I am wearing the aluminum arm with the steel blade holder. And I built my own blade holder (as seen at Steve Goodes site http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/search?q=jet) instead of buying one from Steve. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjweb Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 Yes i have a jet saw with the barrel clamp, and i also made my own jig like steve goods, perty easy, RJ OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 Here's my homemade clamp. Work great. Not sure what the brass barrel accomplished. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhotoWhit Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 On 1/2/2018 at 3:19 PM, Rockytime said: Here's my homemade clamp. Work great. Not sure what the brass barrel accomplished. An old discussion, but others might find this. The brass is a soft metal commonly used in bushings to allow the metal connections to move but not bind. They are commonly used in applications like motorcycle swing arms between the chassis and the swing arm (holds the rear wheel). If you find excessive blade breakage at the bottom arm, it's likely the blade isn't pivoting properly. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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