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Proper STAINING of Fretwork like this


Sam777

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Glue ups are possible with 1/4" hardwoods. The trick is doing it on a perfectly flat non stick table, square edges of the stock what ever it is, light clamping pressure, weighing it down from the top to prevent bowing from the clamps and allowing sufficient time for the glue to set up. Have done larger panels this way. Think about guitar tops which are even thinner than 1/4".

Edited by ScollSaw Slasher
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16 hours ago, Sam777 said:

Here another question :)

Will oil based Polyurethane go well over Shellac?

Thank you

Sam

Oil based polyurethane does not have very good adhesion, even to itself.  That is why the manufacturer recommends that you scuff sand the surface before applying additional coats, if the previous coat has been allowed to dry over a certain amount of time.  Scuff sanding provides tooth for the next coat to grab on to.  Shellac has been called the universal sealer/barrier coat, because it sticks to just about anything and just about anything sticks to it.  The one exception to this statement is waxed shellac and oil based polyurethane.  With shellac, the conventional wisdom is to use de-waxed shellac, as John mentioned.  Zinnser sells a couple different products in their line of pre-mixed shellac.  In its natural state, shellac contains wax.  The one you want for use under oil based polyurethane is Seal Coat.  It is de-waxed and provides an excellent base for just about any top coat. 

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