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No straight lines! - Ugh!!!


new2woodwrk

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heck, i have days i cant follow a crooked line!:shock:

im not sure if youre aware, but scrollsaws will have a drift- trying to feed at a 90 degree to the blade doesnt work to get a straight line. i have to feed at an angle from the right side.

the best advise i can give at this time is keep constant pressure letting the blade do the work and look ahead of the cut. i have noticed better control with straight cuts when i have the saw speed up higher,too.

 

what type of wood are you cutting? that can factor in,too

also, cutting with the grain can be a bugger- it always easier to cut straight against the grain.

Edited by tomsteve
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21 minutes ago, tomsteve said:

heck, i have days i cant follow a crooked line!:shock:

im not sure if youre aware, but scrollsaws will have a drift- trying to feed at a 90 degree to the blade doesnt work to get a straight line. i have to feed at an angle from the right side.

the best advise i can give at this time is keep constant pressure letting the blade do the work and look ahead of the cut. i have noticed better control with straight cuts when i have the saw speed up higher,too.

 

what type of wood are you cutting? that can factor in,too

also, cutting with the grain can be a bugger- it always easier to cut straight against the grain.

Re; the 2nd paragraph above.  If I get in trouble, I move the chair to the right and trick the brain into thinking that the "back" of the saw is actually to the left of center.

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I have used FD blades sense I started scrolling and you have to feed the line into the blade at an angle to adjust for the drift. I have been using the Pegas blades and there isn’t any drift to them. Takes some getting used to changing blades. Try the Pegas blades and see how you get along. 

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Basically, don't try to get the blade/saw to cut in what YOU think is a straight line, let the blade/saw dictate what a straight line is.  As soon as you stop trying to go exactly 90 degrees to the blade, you'll be fine.  My DeWalt with Olson blades is probably about 15 degrees "crooked".  Once you learn what "straight" actually is, you'll get used to it.

Edited by Iguanadon
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1 hour ago, jerry1939 said:

Re; the 2nd paragraph above.  If I get in trouble, I move the chair to the right and trick the brain into thinking that the "back" of the saw is actually to the left of center.

i cant believe i never thought of that! im always leaning over to the side.LOLOL

thanks,jerry, for the tip!

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17 minutes ago, Iguanadon said:

Basically, don't try to get the blade/saw to cut in what YOU think is a straight line, let the blade/saw dictate what a straight line is.  As soon as you stop trying to exactly 90 degrees to the blade, you'll be fine.  My DeWalt with Olson blades is probably about 15 degrees "crooked".  Once you learn what "straight" actually is, you'll get used to it.

Well put. Straight to someone on the saw isn't straight to someone standing behind them.

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4 hours ago, trackman said:

I have used FD blades sense I started scrolling and you have to feed the line into the blade at an angle to adjust for the drift. I have been using the Pegas blades and there isn’t any drift to them. Takes some getting used to changing blades. Try the Pegas blades and see how you get along. 

No kidding, I was going back and forth between my Hawk with Pegas blades and my DeWalt with Olson blades and it was REALLY screwing me up.  LOL  Pegas blades cut amazingly "straight" (90 degrees)

Edited by Iguanadon
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I learned to plow a straight line by keeping my on a fence post across the field. I kinda do the same on straight cuts. I tend to look just a bit ahead of the line like 1/4 inch or so ahead. Don't know if that helps but it works for me.

My big problem is following curves. I just have to go slow.

Edited by Rockytime
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0I have used Olson's match blades for some time and then I tried pegas blades and they cut streight lines just like the olson's. Then I tried FD blades and they were a little harder to cut streight but not enough to make any differencenothing that you couldn't live with. It may be that I have been doing this too long  for any blade I try I have no problems with. I was  talking with my wife and we ddetermined that I started dwith a Dremel saw which is very premitive saw. Thhat wass in about 1965 This has been my 6th scroll saw, The saws we use today are a dream to use. After all those years all you do is follow the lines This has been a great hobby I don't know how much longer this body will let contunion. I do sell some give most away, as long as I make enough to cover expences that's all that matters. I sell my puzzles for $10 ea and or=niments for $6 and don't do special orders By this time you are probably bord with my post so I will sign out

IKE

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33 minutes ago, ike said:

0I have used Olson's match blades for some time and then I tried pegas blades and they cut streight lines just like the olson's. Then I tried FD blades and they were a little harder to cut streight but not enough to make any differencenothing that you couldn't live with. It may be that I have been doing this too long  for any blade I try I have no problems with. I was  talking with my wife and we ddetermined that I started dwith a Dremel saw which is very premitive saw. Thhat wass in about 1965 This has been my 6th scroll saw, The saws we use today are a dream to use. After all those years all you do is follow the lines This has been a great hobby I don't know how much longer this body will let contunion. I do sell some give most away, as long as I make enough to cover expences that's all that matters. I sell my puzzles for $10 ea and or=niments for $6 and don't do special orders By this time you are probably bord with my post so I will sign out

IKE

I never get bored reading all of your stuff. Any of you that is. I am addicted to this darned forum. I can't get anything done. Especially if it's the least bit cool/cold outdoors. I'm a wimp.

R

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5 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I never get bored reading all of your stuff. Any of you that is. I am addicted to this darned forum. I can't get anything done. Especially if it's the least bit cool/cold outdoors. I'm a wimp.

R

That is me this time of year as well... I do work a little on and off all day.. but find it easy to come here and get distracted :)  from what I should be doing..

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I have to wonder... where are you seeing straight lines? I've never seen any straight lines while scroll sawing.. :lol:.. Just make them up as you go like I do.. at the end of the day nobody knows it was supposed to be straight. except those that know the patterns.. which is why I use un-known designs :lol: :razz:

No now on a more serious note.. I think you've gotten some really good advice from here.. I don't have anything to add other than some humor to lighten up the day..

As for going back and forth from Pegas to FD to Olsen  LOL.. yeah after a while you just get used to switching.. I adjust fairly quickly now because for all last summer I kept switching from one saw to the next and I use different blades n each saw.. Hey.. excuse for a new saw.. I don't have a saw for that size blade yet.. :lol:.. Anyway.. I haven't done much of any detailed fairly advanced portrait work in quite a long time... today.. I've been re-learning spiral blades.. cut out a 120 holes so far and maybe 1/4 done.. been many more but like I said.. having to relearn the spirals.. not only that.. but.. I've never used a spiral blade on the Hawk saws either.. LOL.. If it turns out without me getting mad and throwing the piece across the shop.. I'll post pictures when done, LOL

 

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Greetings,

The only suggestion I can add is, perhaps if you draw a few straight lines on some scrap wood and
then cut some with the saw speed pretty high, some with the speed pretty low, and maybe a couple with
the speed near the middle, you will find what speed suits you personally.

What-ever speed you are cutting at you have to remember the adjust how fast you feed the wood into the
blade and let the blade do the cutting. If you are bowing the blade and the blade has to catch up when you
stop pushing while the blade is still running, you are pushing too fast into the blade.

God Bless! Spirithorse

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i have the same issue. so as i have been told my whole life "play to your strengths". don't get me wrong i still practice but have changed my focus. i am happy to say my straight lines with a spiral blade has improved much faster by moving side to side. i find my control in that plane to be more steady. 

just don't get down on yourself,,,, it will never help...

;)

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12 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

I just can't seem to get a straight line cut no matter how hard I try.

I know about the burr on the right side of blades, but still I can't seem to follow a straight line to save my life!

Any help is greatly appreciated - it's really pissing me off now :(

Thanks in advance

Not sitting directly behind the saw will make me not cut straight,Try slowing down your speed till you can stay on the line.

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When I switched to pegas modified geometry I couldn't believe the difference in cutting a straight line, I was using FDUR, PMG is so much easier

The other thing I found, is do not look at the line, where it is going I mean, look only at the line where the blade is.  Using any other saw you look ahead at where you are going to cut, not with a scroll saw.

Relax your shoulders, and breathe easy, that helps too

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Many people ask why the hell I run my saw full speed. I personally have better control when the saw runs full or almost full speed.. better control in corners and straight lines.. I would suggest doing what Spirithourse said.. try different speeds and feed rates and see what one works better for you.. many times we tend to feed the wood too fast on straight lines and that many times will get you off track..

Not sure if you seen my video.. but this saw is running almost full speed.. I did slow it down some here and cut slower than normal.. because I  laid the phone down on top of my magnifier light so the phone was covering my view and I was sawing looking through my phone screen which was just weird and odd to cut that way.. LOL.. At any rate.. I run my saw to where I am not pushing the wood hardly at all.. if anything I feel like I'm pulling back on the wood to keep it from going too fast and messing me up, LOL

 

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Hmm, the rest of us can cut totally straight lines - NOT!  :):)  You can get better with practice and follow the advice given above, but if your looking for straight lines like a table saw, you have the wrong tool.  What you think is not straight, may look just fine to someone else.  Relax and have fun!

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16 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I have to wonder... where are you seeing straight lines? I've never seen any straight lines while scroll sawing.. :lol:.. Just make them up as you go like I do.. at the end of the day nobody knows it was supposed to be straight. except those that know the patterns.. which is why I use un-known designs :lol: :razz:

No now on a more serious note.. I think you've gotten some really good advice from here.. I don't have anything to add other than some humor to lighten up the day..

As for going back and forth from Pegas to FD to Olsen  LOL.. yeah after a while you just get used to switching.. I adjust fairly quickly now because for all last summer I kept switching from one saw to the next and I use different blades n each saw.. Hey.. excuse for a new saw.. I don't have a saw for that size blade yet.. :lol:.. Anyway.. I haven't done much of any detailed fairly advanced portrait work in quite a long time... today.. I've been re-learning spiral blades.. cut out a 120 holes so far and maybe 1/4 done.. been many more but like I said.. having to relearn the spirals.. not only that.. but.. I've never used a spiral blade on the Hawk saws either.. LOL.. If it turns out without me getting mad and throwing the piece across the shop.. I'll post pictures when done, LOL

 

I cut a light house and it has straight lines :(

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