hopefully some good tips

[heppnerguy]

AS I was cutting a rather delicate piece, ( depending on what one might consider to be a little delicate ), I realized that what has become routine through trial and error, just might be of someone who had not come across the downfall of this task. So I decided to share what I have found has helped me. First let me explain one thing. The pattern I am cutting is a Steve Good free pattern on his web site, (www.scollsawworkshop.blodspot.com). Steve suggests using 3/4 inch material for this project. I believe the thickness suggested is to help support the delicate cuts and give it added strength so anyone can cut it successfully. I, however, do not enjoy cutting this kind of a pattern using that thick of wood because I feel it takes away the delicacy and beauty of the piece. I much prefer to cut this kind of a pattern with 1/8th inch material to bring out the beauty of the piece. So what I do to help combat the delicate parts from breaking off, is to first of all stack cut it in 2 or three layers. I still us only 1/8 inch stock. How I stack cut it to make the number of blanks to the same size, then I use blue painters tape to tape them together, after sanding the surfaces and cleaning them of well. I put the tape over the board I am going to put the pattern on. To hold the boards together I start by overlapping the tape on the far end of my blank about 2 inches and crease the closer end at the edge of the blank and tear it even with the blank. Then I hold the end that has the overlapped tape tightly together and fold over the 2 inch piece of the tape to the back of the second blank. I then rotate the board blanks so the second run of painters tape is now overlapping the end where the first was torn off even and this gives me an overlap on each end of my material. I continue to tape it by rotating and overlapping each piece of tape so that now I have ever other run of tape overlapping on opposite ends of my blank until the face of the blank is completely covered and ready for the pattern to be glued onto it. But, before I glue on the pattern, I also cut two strips of painter's tape approximately the length of the blanks and put it on the edge of the blank so that 1/2 of the width of the tape is overlapping the edges not already covered by the tape. Holding the edges of the blanks tightly together I crease the tape over the edge and onto the back side of the second blank. I use 2 1/2 inch painter's tape so that I have less passes and the coverage of each run of tape is covering as much as possible.

Now the part that helps to not break the extended delicate parts from breaking while cutting it. ........ If one starts on the outside edge of the blank and does the final cutting from there, two things happen that is not good.  ONE, as you cut away the outside edges of the pattern in this manner, you are losing the holding together of the stacked pieces and allowing more opportunity for the stacked pieces to move out of line as you finish the cutting. Two, you are allowing the now most delicate part to be unsupported and more venerable to accidental breakage. So, here is my hint for that....TIP 1 PHOTO .drill a starting hole on the interior of the outside to the outer part of the pattern so that you are leaving the painter's tape in it's hold down capacity and not allowing the chance for the second layer to move and possibly screw up the cut on that layer.  TIP 2 PHOTO Also by doing it in this manner, the blank is continuing to support the entire pattern as you cut the outside of the pattern and it is less likely to break. TIP 3 PHOTO  When you have finished cutting the outside of the pattern you can just life off the outer part and discard it.

I have posted some photos of an example of what I am trying to suggest to you so you can visualize what I am trying to say. If anything is not clear, just ask and I will try to show you exactly what I am talking about with a photo of it.

I hope this helps some newbies and helps them not to break cuttings as they try a more delicate cut.

Dick

heppnerguy 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

This looks good. All sound advice too. Thanks for sharing. A nice backerboard will strengthen any delicate areas and give it some depth too. Thanks for showing.

[OCtoolguy]

Try as I might, I read and re-read your description of how you tape the blanks together. You might do a step by step of your taping in pics so as to make it more understandable. I know once I SEE it, I'll understand the written description. Thanks for your posting so far. I like finding out how others do things. Especially those who have experience.

Ray

 

[heppnerguy]

2 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Try as I might, I read and re-read your description of how you tape the blanks together. You might do a step by step of your taping in pics so as to make it more understandable. I know once I SEE it, I'll understand the written description. Thanks for your posting so far. I like finding out how others do things. Especially those who have experience.

Ray

 

Ray.  I will try with this.... Be sure you click on each picture as I describe it so you can see the  entire photo. I only did half of the board for this demo. You would cover the entire board from one side to the other before you put the edge tape on. Remember to rotate the board after each strip of tape is applied so that the over hanging tape is on opposite ends from the previous strip. I hope this helps to you understand what I was trying to explain. if not I could make a video and send that to you. In these photos I only used one board but if you were stack cutting you would have 2 or more boards of exact measurements on top of each other and the folded over strips of tape would be holding them together,

1a.  is one strip of tape overlapping 1 inch on the top

2.  is the back side with the overlap tightly stuck to the back

3 is the pattern side with next strip overhanging on the opposite end of board

 4. is the same shot with the roll of tape creased again the end of the board and torn off

5 is the same view with the overlap stuck to the back side but this time it is on the opposite end of the first strip

(you continue this process until the entire board top is covered solid with tape...I did not complete the covering of the top of board in this demo)

6.  After the entire top of board is covered for pattern, place another strip most of the way down the length of the top of board on both sides as shown (1 side only in photo)  when you take a close look at the end of this photo you will see how each tape strip is folded over only on one end. they alternate ends with every other strip of tape.

8. turn board over and seal edges to the back of board

9. This shows 1/2 of top of board (which would be covered all the way across and down the right and left side when ready for pattern attachment)

[WayneMahler]

Thanks for posting this. Good advice and practices too. If I only have to make one then I use a playing card taped to the saw table as a zero clearance which also supports the pieces. 

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, heppnerguy said:

Ray.  I will try with this.... Be sure you click on each picture as I describe it so you can see the  entire photo. I only did half of the board for this demo. You would cover the entire board from one side to the other before you put the edge tape on. Remember to rotate the board after each strip of tape is applied so that the over hanging tape is on opposite ends from the previous strip. I hope this helps to you understand what I was trying to explain. if not I could make a video and send that to you. In these photos I only used one board but if you were stack cutting you would have 2 or more boards of exact measurements on top of each other and the folded over strips of tape would be holding them together,

1a.  is one strip of tape overlapping 1 inch on the top

2.  is the back side with the overlap tightly stuck to the back

3 is the pattern side with next strip overhanging on the opposite end of board

 4. is the same shot with the roll of tape creased again the end of the board and torn off

5 is the same view with the overlap stuck to the back side but this time it is on the opposite end of the first strip

(you continue this process until the entire board top is covered solid with tape...I did not complete the covering of the top of board in this demo)

6.  After the entire top of board is covered for pattern, place another strip most of the way down the length of the top of board on both sides as shown (1 side only in photo)  when you take a close look at the end of this photo you will see how each tape strip is folded over only on one end. they alternate ends with every other strip of tape.

8. turn board over and seal edges to the back of board

9. This shows 1/2 of top of board (which would be covered all the way across and down the right and left side when ready for pattern attachment)

Thanks for the pics. I was misinterpreting your first description when you said "rotate". I thought you meant that you were rotating a 1/4 turn and then running another strip of tape. I see now what you were saying. A picture is worth a thousand words when it comes to me being "dense". I totally understand your process now.

R

[amazingkevin]

9 hours ago, heppnerguy said:

AS I was cutting a rather delicate piece, ( depending on what one might consider to be a little delicate ), I realized that what has become routine through trial and error, just might be of someone who had not come across the downfall of this task. So I decided to share what I have found has helped me. First let me explain one thing. The pattern I am cutting is a Steve Good free pattern on his web site, (www.scollsawworkshop.blodspot.com). Steve suggests using 3/4 inch material for this project. I believe the thickness suggested is to help support the delicate cuts and give it added strength so anyone can cut it successfully. I, however, do not enjoy cutting this kind of a pattern using that thick of wood because I feel it takes away the delicacy and beauty of the piece. I much prefer to cut this kind of a pattern with 1/8th inch material to bring out the beauty of the piece. So what I do to help combat the delicate parts from breaking off, is to first of all stack cut it in 2 or three layers. I still us only 1/8 inch stock. How I stack cut it to make the number of blanks to the same size, then I use blue painters tape to tape them together, after sanding the surfaces and cleaning them of well. I put the tape over the board I am going to put the pattern on. To hold the boards together I start by overlapping the tape on the far end of my blank about 2 inches and crease the closer end at the edge of the blank and tear it even with the blank. Then I hold the end that has the overlapped tape tightly together and fold over the 2 inch piece of the tape to the back of the second blank. I then rotate the board blanks so the second run of painters tape is now overlapping the end where the first was torn off even and this gives me an overlap on each end of my material. I continue to tape it by rotating and overlapping each piece of tape so that now I have ever other run of tape overlapping on opposite ends of my blank until the face of the blank is completely covered and ready for the pattern to be glued onto it. But, before I glue on the pattern, I also cut two strips of painter's tape approximately the length of the blanks and put it on the edge of the blank so that 1/2 of the width of the tape is overlapping the edges not already covered by the tape. Holding the edges of the blanks tightly together I crease the tape over the edge and onto the back side of the second blank. I use 2 1/2 inch painter's tape so that I have less passes and the coverage of each run of tape is covering as much as possible.

Now the part that helps to not break the extended delicate parts from breaking while cutting it. ........ If one starts on the outside edge of the blank and does the final cutting from there, two things happen that is not good.  ONE, as you cut away the outside edges of the pattern in this manner, you are losing the holding together of the stacked pieces and allowing more opportunity for the stacked pieces to move out of line as you finish the cutting. Two, you are allowing the now most delicate part to be unsupported and more venerable to accidental breakage. So, here is my hint for that....TIP 1 PHOTO .drill a starting hole on the interior of the outside to the outer part of the pattern so that you are leaving the painter's tape in it's hold down capacity and not allowing the chance for the second layer to move and possibly screw up the cut on that layer.  TIP 2 PHOTO Also by doing it in this manner, the blank is continuing to support the entire pattern as you cut the outside of the pattern and it is less likely to break. TIP 3 PHOTO  When you have finished cutting the outside of the pattern you can just life off the outer part and discard it.

I have posted some photos of an example of what I am trying to suggest to you so you can visualize what I am trying to say. If anything is not clear, just ask and I will try to show you exactly what I am talking about with a photo of it.

I hope this helps some newbies and helps them not to break cuttings as they try a more delicate cut.

Dick

heppnerguy 

Beautiful work you've done flawlessly!!!!!

[heppnerguy]

19 hours ago, WayneMahler said:

Thanks for posting this. Good advice and practices too. If I only have to make one then I use a playing card taped to the saw table as a zero clearance which also supports the pieces. 

I have a near zero insert that I also use when cutting everything, but on this particular pattern the weakest part is on the outside edge so the playing card will not protect the outside of this pattern, if one was to cut away the very edge of the pattern as it was exposed while doing the last outside part. I have also used the playing card on my other saw and it certainly helps support the delicate pieces while one is cutting it.  Thanks for responding to my tip and adding to it with the playing card tip. I remember how excited I was when I first read that suggestion several years ago. A simple suggestion that help so much.

Dick

heppnerguy

[WayneMahler]

2 hours ago, heppnerguy said:

I have a near zero insert that I also use when cutting everything, but on this particular pattern the weakest part is on the outside edge so the playing card will not protect the outside of this pattern, if one was to cut away the very edge of the pattern as it was exposed while doing the last outside part. I have also used the playing card on my other saw and it certainly helps support the delicate pieces while one is cutting it.  Thanks for responding to my tip and adding to it with the playing card tip. I remember how excited I was when I first read that suggestion several years ago. A simple suggestion that help so much.

Dick

heppnerguy

Dick I'll soon find out soon. The Mrs. seen this and wants two of them cut for our upcoming shows. When I down loaded the pattern it read Grandmother which I'll cut two of them. I did like you and cut and edited the one line to say mothers. When I was drilling the holes my old and feeble mind drilled the wrong letters (of) so I walked away before I got upset to take a break and this will be the Grandmothers cut. Such is the life in a shop  .

[heppnerguy]

On ‎2‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 1:35 PM, WayneMahler said:

Dick I'll soon find out soon. The Mrs. seen this and wants two of them cut for our upcoming shows. When I down loaded the pattern it read Grandmother which I'll cut two of them. I did like you and cut and edited the one line to say mothers. When I was drilling the holes my old and feeble mind drilled the wrong letters (of) so I walked away before I got upset to take a break and this will be the Grandmothers cut. Such is the life in a shop  .

I was worried about the same thing. So I took a pencil and scratched out the letters I was not going to use. I have done the same thing you talked about or even drilled the hole in the part I was planning of not cutting at all. We all do this kind of thing once in awhile

Dick

heppnerguy

[WayneMahler]

3 hours ago, heppnerguy said:

I was worried about the same thing. So I took a pencil and scratched out the letters I was not going to use. I have done the same thing you talked about or even drilled the hole in the part I was planning of not cutting at all. We all do this kind of thing once in awhile

Dick

heppnerguy

Salvaged the piece I screwed up. Reprinted the pattern cut out Grandma line and glued to the pattern already attached. Hate to lose that mu wood over something stupid. Lesson learned though, I took a marker and blacked out the unwanted letters on the other pattern. I did get that cut today, took a while and found out how fragile the outside is. Love the way it looks but very concerned about how fragile it is.