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My eyes can seldom see the burrs on the blades so...


new2woodwrk

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I thought I'd post something that helps me see the burrs on the blades for mounting on the saw.

I don't have magnifier attached to my saw - once I get my final saw I will probably mount one.

In the mean time I use these glasses - they work really good for very small items and close up work

Just thought I'd share - you all probably have much better ways, but perhaps this may help another newbie

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8 minutes ago, Roberta Moreton said:

I also run my fingers on the blade. Smooth down, way to go. 

To clarify more what is said here.. since when I first read this I thought you put the blades in upside down.. but it took a minute to figure out what you meant.. 

Run your finger down the blade.. you'll feel running the finger in one direction it is smooth and the other direction the blade wants to grab the skin or feels like it wants to cut.. ( rough feeling )  the saw cuts on the down stroke.. so that grip or rough feeling needs to be placed in the saw so that the rough feel would be going toward the down stroke.. I hope that made sense..   

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33 minutes ago, tomsteve said:

ya know, FD makes a blade with a little indent on the top end of the blade. cant remember exactly which ones they are, but sure make figgerin it out easy peasy.

I think all the blade makers should do this. Sure would make life easier. Especially when working with these tiny little blades. I did find that if I use a pencil magnet to hold the blade on it's flat side it is much easier to work with when installing in the saw. Once it's in and you only unclamp one end, then no problem but when installing it the first time under the table, it's far easier to hold it with the magnet.

R

 

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1 minute ago, octoolguy said:

I think all the blade makers should do this. Sure would make life easier. Especially when working with these tiny little blades. I did find that if I use a pencil magnet to hold the blade on it's flat side it is much easier to work with when installing in the saw. Once it's in and you only unclamp one end, then no problem but when installing it the first time under the table, it's far easier to hold it with the magnet.

R

 

Yes and no, LOL ... I like to spoil it for everyone, :) But anyway.. that bump makes for difficult for some blade clamps.. and some detail work where I have a small entry hole that section gets stuck making it difficult to push the blade on through and makes for ruining a blade by bending it.. Yeah I know.. just use a smaller blade.. That's just not my style though :lol: 

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2 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yes and no, LOL ... I like to spoil it for everyone, :) But anyway.. that bump makes for difficult for some blade clamps.. and some detail work where I have a small entry hole that section gets stuck making it difficult to push the blade on through and makes for ruining a blade by bending it.. Yeah I know.. just use a smaller blade.. That's just not my style though :lol: 

Then use a bigger drill. Ha!

 

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15 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

I thought I'd post something that helps me see the burrs on the blades for mounting on the saw.

I don't have magnifier attached to my saw - once I get my final saw I will probably mount one.

In the mean time I use these glasses - they work really good for very small items and close up work

Just thought I'd share - you all probably have much better ways, but perhaps this may help another newbie

I bought those glasses and were not for the full time  scroller.very cheaply made and tend to fall apart too often.

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On 2/20/2018 at 7:57 AM, Roberta Moreton said:

I agree it probably needed clarification. I tell my students to think of a pole in the firehouse. When you slide down from the top, you want it smooth. It’s rough to try togofrom the bottom to the top Seems to help them remember.

LMBO........Ive been in the fire service for 24+ years.......I like your thinking, much easier going down........FYI, almost all FD here in the south have moved away from poles in the station and/or two story station......all due to firefighters having to take early retirement from injuries sliding poles........so sad to this go.........Be Safe!

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I have the blades with the dimple at the top and they cut well but a problem arises if I break one of them while doing inlay. 

     Because my Hegner saw is a bottom feeder I find it impossible to get the dimpled  blade up through the saw cut where the blade broke.  Through the starting hole is no problem but getting it up through the sawcut is impossible.  I need to hammer that dimple flat to make this work. 

     Yes, I could top feed it, but that is awkward for me because I do not like to get on my kees to be able to see under the table to insert the bottom of the blade into the clamp there.  

     In future I will not buy these blades.

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