new2woodwrk Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 I thought I'd post something that helps me see the burrs on the blades for mounting on the saw. I don't have magnifier attached to my saw - once I get my final saw I will probably mount one. In the mean time I use these glasses - they work really good for very small items and close up work Just thought I'd share - you all probably have much better ways, but perhaps this may help another newbie lawson56 and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 I run my finger across the blade to see which way the teeth are going before putting it in the saw. The FD UR have a dent on the top to show which way they go in. bowers25, new2woodwrk, OCtoolguy and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 I also run my fingers on the blade. Smooth down, way to go. Jim Finn, OCtoolguy and new2woodwrk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 8 minutes ago, Roberta Moreton said: I also run my fingers on the blade. Smooth down, way to go. To clarify more what is said here.. since when I first read this I thought you put the blades in upside down.. but it took a minute to figure out what you meant.. Run your finger down the blade.. you'll feel running the finger in one direction it is smooth and the other direction the blade wants to grab the skin or feels like it wants to cut.. ( rough feeling ) the saw cuts on the down stroke.. so that grip or rough feeling needs to be placed in the saw so that the rough feel would be going toward the down stroke.. I hope that made sense.. OCtoolguy, Jim Finn and new2woodwrk 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 I agree it probably needed clarification. I tell my students to think of a pole in the firehouse. When you slide down from the top, you want it smooth. It’s rough to try togofrom the bottom to the top Seems to help them remember. new2woodwrk, OCtoolguy, Doug and 1 other 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 ya know, FD makes a blade with a little indent on the top end of the blade. cant remember exactly which ones they are, but sure make figgerin it out easy peasy. OCtoolguy and new2woodwrk 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 33 minutes ago, tomsteve said: ya know, FD makes a blade with a little indent on the top end of the blade. cant remember exactly which ones they are, but sure make figgerin it out easy peasy. I think all the blade makers should do this. Sure would make life easier. Especially when working with these tiny little blades. I did find that if I use a pencil magnet to hold the blade on it's flat side it is much easier to work with when installing in the saw. Once it's in and you only unclamp one end, then no problem but when installing it the first time under the table, it's far easier to hold it with the magnet. R new2woodwrk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 1 minute ago, octoolguy said: I think all the blade makers should do this. Sure would make life easier. Especially when working with these tiny little blades. I did find that if I use a pencil magnet to hold the blade on it's flat side it is much easier to work with when installing in the saw. Once it's in and you only unclamp one end, then no problem but when installing it the first time under the table, it's far easier to hold it with the magnet. R Yes and no, LOL ... I like to spoil it for everyone, But anyway.. that bump makes for difficult for some blade clamps.. and some detail work where I have a small entry hole that section gets stuck making it difficult to push the blade on through and makes for ruining a blade by bending it.. Yeah I know.. just use a smaller blade.. That's just not my style though OCtoolguy, Jim Finn and tomsteve 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 2 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: Yes and no, LOL ... I like to spoil it for everyone, But anyway.. that bump makes for difficult for some blade clamps.. and some detail work where I have a small entry hole that section gets stuck making it difficult to push the blade on through and makes for ruining a blade by bending it.. Yeah I know.. just use a smaller blade.. That's just not my style though Then use a bigger drill. Ha! tomsteve and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 15 hours ago, new2woodwrk said: I thought I'd post something that helps me see the burrs on the blades for mounting on the saw. I don't have magnifier attached to my saw - once I get my final saw I will probably mount one. In the mean time I use these glasses - they work really good for very small items and close up work Just thought I'd share - you all probably have much better ways, but perhaps this may help another newbie I bought those glasses and were not for the full time scroller.very cheaply made and tend to fall apart too often. new2woodwrk and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 11 hours ago, octoolguy said: Then use a bigger drill. Ha! or top feed.:) i dont top feed. kmmcrafts and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawson56 Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Well I my self use a pair of reading glasses.I use them to cut,and see the blades.My Daughter bought me a magnifier.but the neck was to short .I have not found a good way to hook it up. OCtoolguy and new2woodwrk 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowers25 Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 On 2/20/2018 at 7:57 AM, Roberta Moreton said: I agree it probably needed clarification. I tell my students to think of a pole in the firehouse. When you slide down from the top, you want it smooth. It’s rough to try togofrom the bottom to the top Seems to help them remember. LMBO........Ive been in the fire service for 24+ years.......I like your thinking, much easier going down........FYI, almost all FD here in the south have moved away from poles in the station and/or two story station......all due to firefighters having to take early retirement from injuries sliding poles........so sad to this go.........Be Safe! new2woodwrk and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted February 23, 2018 Report Share Posted February 23, 2018 I have the blades with the dimple at the top and they cut well but a problem arises if I break one of them while doing inlay. Because my Hegner saw is a bottom feeder I find it impossible to get the dimpled blade up through the saw cut where the blade broke. Through the starting hole is no problem but getting it up through the sawcut is impossible. I need to hammer that dimple flat to make this work. Yes, I could top feed it, but that is awkward for me because I do not like to get on my kees to be able to see under the table to insert the bottom of the blade into the clamp there. In future I will not buy these blades. new2woodwrk and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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