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Tips For Cutting Acrylic


MBridges

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In my introduction thread Kevin mention there had been some questions about cutting acrylic. Personally I love to cut it as it's easy to cut and, to me, it seem to go thru less blades. Also, when you're done just peel the paper off and that's it. No staining, no finishing, ect.

 

The first and most important tip is Duct Tape! Yea yea i know, here come the jokes about duct tape fixes everything, but in this case it really works. I'm not sure if it's the lubricant of the glue melting with the heat from friction or what exactly but keeps your kerf from fusing back together behind your cut. Put a layer of duct tape on top of the paper that covers the acrylic and then attach your pattern to that. The nice thing is when you're done you just peel off the paper and the whole lot comes off.

 

The second tip is use double tooth blades. I personally use the Olsen Doubth Tooth blades. You don't want anything that has reverse teeth as they will put the dust back in the kerf causing it to fuse together. You can turn really easily in acrylic so I've never used anything smaller than a 3D blade and if the holes are large enough I'll use a 5D. The wider the kerf the less any of the dust getting back in there can cause any problems.

 

Tip #3 is that you can stack cut it. I've cut 2 pieces of 1/8" acrylic with no problems. The only thing to keep in mind is once a while your colors may "bleed" a little bit on the edges. If you're cutting the same color you won't have any problems at all. Cutting 1 piece all by itself can be hard to control if you are doing very intricate cuts. I would recommend using a piece of 1/8" baltic birch or something similar as an extra later if you only want 1 copy of the piece in acrylic. When stack cutting, you only need to use the duct tape tip above on the top layer. NOTE: I do NOT recommend the duct tape tip if the wood layer is your top layer LOL :rofl: No I haven't done this, I just couldn't resist a little sarcasm. ;)

 

 

The last tip is to use Weld Bond glue. You used to be able to find it in some Home Depot's. If you can't find it there Sloan's Woodshop carries it and you can order it from them. It dries quickly, is the only glue I've found that will attach acrylic to wood, and dries completely clear. I use it all the time now including wood to wood.

 

Hope this helps and if you have any other question feel free to ask away :)

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MATT ,I've never heard it said better,you need to stand up and take a bow.What a great comentary on acrylics and you covered all bases.you've earned your first star now.Your really movin along here at ssv!Don't be surprised if apples arrive at your door unexpectidly,teacher!Your acrylic cuttings look so smooooooth, i can't wait to try cutting some.You can also post your work and get the most benifit for yourself and members is in the user gallery.Plus at anytime we can refer to your work and you will have your own libray to refer to.It's easy to set up,hope you try it you'll like it.Plus things will be in catagories,acrylics,intarsia,fretwork,puzzles what ever catagorys you want to name them.Practice makes perfect and once you know how to do it it's a breeze.thanks again for joining and enjoy your welcome stay! :popcorn:

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Wonderful tips on cutting acrylic. I use Weldbond glue for all my bowls. I love this glue! Tacks up quickly, non-toxic, and dries clear. Ace Hardware is the only place I know of that carries it. They will even even do special orders on the larger bottles of Weldbond. I usually order the 21 oz size as I go through a lot of glue.

 

SQ

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