Finishing - geez Luise there must be an easier way?

[new2woodwrk]

So I'm in the process of applying Tung oil to one of the plates and it's rim I cut.

So far it's 2 days with 2 coats? There must be a quicker/simpler way to finish these things?

How many coats do you all usually put of the oils (Tung, Danish or Mineral Spirits) before adding the lacquer?

How many coats of Lacquer do you all use as well?

It takes longer to "finish" an item than it does to cut it out LOL

Thanks in advance

[fredfret]

I dip then allow 15 min soak before wiping all excess off then over night dry. Poly coat if you want.  I use gloss watco oil seldom poly.lacquer same as poly two coats both thin. Mineral spirit's is for thinning not a finish.

Fredfret

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I do as Fred does but do not lacquer unless the project needs it but most time it does not. I use Watco Danish oil and dip. Let drip and then wipe off. May have to wipe a couple of times because I use oak for most my projects and the pores will hold a certain amount of oil and then drain. After they sit for a few days I wipe a coat of Watco satin polish on and let dry over night and buff out the next day. I have been doing this for a very very very long time and it works for me. Some people need to get things out in a hurry so I will let them explain their methods. 

If you are top coating with poly or lacquer only one coat of oil is needed. No one can tell you how many coats of lacquer to use because we do not know or see your spraying method and equipment used. so to this I say as many as is needed. Just be careful mixing finishes. Oil and water do not mix. If you seperate with a coat of dewax shellac then anything goes. Finishing is all part of the project and it can make or break a project so do the best you can and do not take it for granted. I have been complimented on the finish of my pieces many times over the years and that carries weight. 

[new2woodwrk]

43 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

... Watco satin polish ..

Are you referring to this Watco Satin Wax

[MrsN]

I rarely use use oil, I use rattle can spray finish.

Most of the time I use rust-oleum gloss like this link (but locally it costs like $3 A can)

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KZ6LYMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519267609&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rustoleum%2Bclear%2B2x%2Bgloss&dpPl=1&dpID=418l1QH6ZOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

28 minutes ago, new2woodwrk said:

Are you referring to this Watco Satin Wax

That would be the stuff.

[WayneMahler]

I only use one coat of oil, wipe it down and let it dry over night. Then I'll shoot it with poly or lacquer depending on the project. If you use a spray can you may need 3 coats of poly depending on your habits, I prefer light coats coming out of my guns and lightly sand between coats. Also depending on the project I'll shoot up to 5 coats on it. It gives it a perfectly smooth surface and everyone ( my customers ) seems to like it that way.

[Travis]

If I really want to pop the grain, I'll do 50/50 BLO and Mineral Spirits.  I'll apply it, and wipe it away after a minute or two.  Add again after a bit if it's thirsty enough.  Then I'll wait for the next day to put a clear coat on.  But most of the time, I just skip the oil and move to the clear coat.  I use Deft spray lacquer.  It's a bit more spendy, but i like the way it handles and looks.

[TripleJScroller]

I'm terrible about finishing projects.  I love to cut things... sanding and staining and all that... not so much.   I usually have about 15 - 20 cut projects in some state of finishing at a time...lol.  For fretwork I like to dip it in Danish oil or the 50/50 BLO mix and then wipe it off, usually just once.  Then I use Deft clear lacquer and put 3 - 4 coats of that on using a 1000+ grit sand paper between coats (lightly sanding).  Like Travis said above sometimes I just skip the oil and put a few coats of Deft on and often it turns out real nice looking, especially when using Baltic Birch Ply.

[RangerJay]

Most of my work tends to be one-of-a-kind projects which I think makes it easier to take the time for a great finish - in fact I kinda enjoy it.  Finishing includes  a custom frame or base (if needed), sanding (lots), an application of tung oil (brushed and wiped), multiple coats of polyurethane (Minwax only) and finally a coat of paste wax that is applied with 0000 steel wool then polished or buffed.  On occasion - if I want a portion of the piece to be buffed to a veryhigh gloss I will also polishing compound before waxing.

 

Jay

 

[Bill WIlson]

Finishing doesn't have to be complicated, but there are some basic elements that need to be understood in order to get the results you want.  Without going into a long dissertation on finishing 101, my first suggestion is to allow plenty of time for the oil to cure before topcoating with lacquer.  Lacquer and oil are quite different finishes and while they may ultimately be compatible, if you apply the lacquer topcoat before the oil is fully cured, you could be asking for trouble.  You could get a cloudy film.  You could have adhesion problems.  The previous suggestion of using a barrier coat of shellac is a good one.  That will likely prevent any problems you may have with the lacquer reacting badly with the oil.

It's very important to understand the properties of the finishing products you intend to use.  It's also a very good idea to test unfamiliar finishing schedules on scrap before committing them to your project.  Yes, it takes time, but finishing is as important as the cutting and cutting corners will eventually lead to disappointment.

[MTCowpoke22]

The only things I put oil on are things that are going to be handled, such as bottle opener handles, knife handles, or furniture pieces. For the most part, I don't feel that most scroll projects needs oil, and it's much quicker and easier to spray finish. My finish of choice is Min-wax Polyurethane. Spray it on, give it at least 15 minutes to set, and spray on another coat. Apply 2 to 5 coats, then rub down with either brown or white paper to polish it.

[Gonzo]

I have a nephew who is an Industrial Arts teacher, and an excellent craftsman if I may add. Many times I have asked him about ways to finish a project. He has replied with various ways, i.e. Tung oil, Danish oil, BLO, etc, and when I tell him  that takes too long, his reply has always been, "How long did it take you to make the project? Why rush the finishing end when you took all that time to make your project."

Keeping that in mind, most of my projects do take a long time, but man, is it worth it. 

P.S. I'm curious as to how many of us have ruined a project, because of rushing the finish. I know I have.