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Hanging wall art


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Hello all.  You may have answered this in past forums but here goes.  I have cut out 1/4 backer  and 1/4 art and glued them together.  .  With only 1/2 inch to work with, I am trying to think of alternatives to nails and metal wall hanging materials.  Would love any ideas on what to put on the back of my art to hang on the wall. Thanks in advance. 

Susan.

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You stated that you already glued them together.

My "Go To" method is to cut a horizontal oval in the backer before gluing them together.  The oval allows for side to side adjustment to get it to hang straight.  Also, that allows the piece to be flat against the wall, making it much less likely to move every time a door slams.  Never liked, or saw, an advantage to any type of hanger.

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I use 1/4" inch pan head screws that I get from my local Ave Hardware to attach D ring hangers.  I think the screws are #6.

https://smile.amazon.com/HomeDone-Picture-Hangers-100-Pack-Screws/dp/B01FYEMEEG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519337886&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=d+hangers&psc=1

Edited by NC Scroller
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I use various methods of hanging items and much depends on weight. In you case I use the hooks that Scott has shown or something close. I have at times also used saw tooth hangers for heavier pieces and ones that may need leveling with a better control of that. For shelves I use keyholes routed in the backs of shelves. 

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I use 3m command strips on many projects.

Sometimes I will hot glue or epoxy a saw tooth hanger to the back.

Other times I do like TomSteve does with string or wire. Usually I will either make the string short enough to hid behind the art or decorate it a bit with beads or something to make it look like it is part of the art.

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I make most of my stuff out os 1/8" bbb with a 1/8" back so its pretty thin when done.  I have tried everything and what seems to work best it the little silver wiggly hanger things with claws that you pound into the wood. Now knowing how thin the wood is, if i pounded it right onto the piece it would poke all the way through. 

 

To prevent this I cut a piece of 1/4" thick a bit bigger than the hanger and nail it to that little piece.  Then I wood glue that little piece with the hanger onto the the back of the finished piece. 

Works great and never had one fall off.  Every other thing I tried always failed at some point.

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These are all great suggestions! I have made several boxes with 1/4" solid wood tops and hinge mounting screws are always a problem. Most screws that come with the hinge are 1/4" or 3/8". I typically recess the majority of the hinge in the base and flush mount to top. That still leaves a screw too long. I will depth stop drill for the screw and wax and prethread the screw until just before it break through the other side, then back it out. I used a small vice grip and take it to the belt/disc sander and knock off the 1st few threads. It always works for me but it is important to get some wax on the threads (wax off? Ha!) to set the screw.

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Wow, what great ideas from this group.  I will definitely be  using some of these ideas for the future.  I ended up cutting a 1 1/2 inch strip of 3/4 inch plywood to the back and attached an eyelet screw to the top.  It wasn't the best but it seemed to do the trick.  Thanks everyone for your input!

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