kmmcrafts Posted March 2, 2018 Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 Trying to decide what to finish my Harley puzzle that I posted in the bragging section with... I know Iggy and some of the others use mineral oil.. I have it as well as Danish oil.. My issue with dipping Oak in the oils is.. it likes to bleed out for a long time.. The other puzzles I've made I used the beeswax and mineral oil mix that I typically use for other projects.. but brushing the wax on all the pieces is a little too time consuming.. would rather dip them.. but again.. hate dipping oak.. So what would you suggest.. or how do you all finish oak.. I'm leaning towards the danish oil.. because the way it makes the grain pop.. maybe the mineral oil will do the same.. I've never used just mineral oil.. The mineral oil and wax mix looks much like the Danish oil finish with a slight sheen to it.. and typically my go to finish Thanks in advance for your replies, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meflick Posted March 2, 2018 Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 Kevin, do you have some scraps of the oak you could try the mineral oil on so you could see for yourself if you will be happy with it. I am pretty sure I did a couple of puzzles out of oak and used it and it seemed fine and showed the grain.(Not at Home to look and see for sure.) try both and see which you prefer. kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 I use the same method for everything I cut, even oak. I use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the natural color and grain of the wood, and the mineral spirits thins the oil allowing the oil to easily flow around the project, but most importantly, it helps the oil dry faster. After soaking for a minute or two, I wipe off the oil with blue shop paper towels, then let dry on a cookie rack. It will not bleed if you wipe the oil off fully. If the project has a backer, I will use compressed air to blow the oil out of the frets. The project will be dry enough to to top coat in 24 hours. I use Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. It's not as fast as easy as your method, but it has worked for me for many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted March 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 3 minutes ago, dgman said: I use the same method for everything I cut, even oak. I use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the natural color and grain of the wood, and the mineral spirits thins the oil allowing the oil to easily flow around the project, but most importantly, it helps the oil dry faster. After soaking for a minute or two, I wipe off the oil with blue shop paper towels, then let dry on a cookie rack. It will not bleed if you wipe the oil off fully. If the project has a backer, I will use compressed air to blow the oil out of the frets. The project will be dry enough to to top coat in 24 hours. I use Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. It's not as fast as easy as your method, but it has worked for me for many years. I thought the 50/50 mix like that was about the same thing as Danish oil.. other than danish oil has a varnish mix in it too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 23 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: I thought the 50/50 mix like that was about the same thing as Danish oil.. other than danish oil has a varnish mix in it too.. No Kevin is not the same thing. Depending on the brand and formula, Danish oils contain oils and varnishes. It is also very expensive. You can buy a quart of boiled linseed oil and a quart of mineral spirits for about the same price of Danish oil, and you get two quarts of mix. kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeman Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 You could always make your own finish using pure tongue oil, Japan dryer, mineral spirits, and polyurethane. Just experiment with various ratios. I intend to do this soon. bb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 (edited) I would dip the Danish oil. It will dry in 24 hours if left in a warm place. But will not cure for about a week. If you use Danish oil and after 24 hours and then handle it the warmth of your hands will cause the oils to be activated again. Just a warning. Just dip once and wipe dry after you let it drip for a few minutes to make sure it gets sucked into the grain well. Danish oil is boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, poly urethane and driers mixed together. The poly will give some protection as opposed to just mineral oil or BLO and mineral spirits. Any oils will leave a scent for about a week. I happen to like the smell. Edited March 3, 2018 by JTTHECLOCKMAN kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 Due to the open grain in oak I use a product called Deftoil. It is Deft's version of Danish Oil. I have tried the various plain oils. Bottom line you need a product that will dry / harden. Roberta Moreton and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollerpete Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 I used Tung oil on my puzzles, soaked them good let them dry, used the sanding mop (320) on the pieces and reassemble them and put another coat of Tung oil on the good side only. So far all my customers have been happy with the product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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