trackman Posted March 9, 2018 Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 See people using a steam chamber to bend wood. Would this work to take warp out of a piece of wood? While the wood is hot put in a press until cool and dry? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 9, 2018 Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 Might try this I haven't yet but plan on it soon. http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/care_of_thin_wood.php OCtoolguy, tomsteve and WayneMahler 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerJay Posted March 9, 2018 Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) I've use a method similar to the link that Scrappile has provided the link for a number of times with wood from 1/4" and up to about 5/8". My only real caution is to be careful with how much moisture you apply - I've kinda found that patience is a necessary virtue - if you apply too much moisture your wood can warp the other way very, very quickly I've taken to ringing a dish cloth or something similar out as dry as you possibly can - spread it out on the cupped side of your piece - watch it closely for a couple hours - then remove it once the wood starts to move - wait 24 hours then do it again if you have to - stick with a repeating cycle that is slow and steady until the wood is level. I don't actually clamp my pieces but do place them cupped side down on a flat surface and weight them down with my toolbox. Once the piece seems to have flattened and stabilized I then clamp it to keep it flat (usually with a sister piece that is warped the other way) - and leave them clamped until they are ready to be scrolled - then once scrolled get a finish on it quickly to seal the wood. Warped wood that is thicker than what you would put under the scrollsaw I run over the jointer and through the planer to true it up. (Should also add that if I am working on a larger project that is going to take a while (as in days or weeks) and I think that there is some risk the wood will warp during the cutting time then I also lay it on a flat surface between cutting sessions, with my toolbox on it to keep it flat). Jay Edited March 9, 2018 by RangerJay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new2woodwrk Posted March 9, 2018 Report Share Posted March 9, 2018 AFAIK - when wood "warps", it's because of drying unevenly. I was told to add water to the concave side, put a weight on it to flatten and let it sit in the sun for a few hours. I've done this and while the warp was removed, after a few days it came back worse then ever. Sorry I'm no help, but thought I'd add that in case you did a search and found this techinque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 10, 2018 Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 The most important factor is knowing why the wood warps. As mentioned above wood moves with uneven moisture absorption. You set a thin board flat on your workbench, it most certainly will warp or cup because the top will absorb moisture and the bottom won't. If you plane the wood yourself, you need to take off the same amount off each side, or the wood will warp. When you get your nice wood in the mail, let it sit in the package for a few days. Then unwrap your wood and stack with "stickers" in between each layer to allow even air circulation around all the boards. Or you can lean the boards up against a wall at an angle for even air circulation. JTTHECLOCKMAN 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted March 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 Got a lot of information on how to fix warp but I was just asking if any one has tried to fix it in a steam chamber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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