hotshot Posted March 12, 2018 Report Share Posted March 12, 2018 When I got my King, and got all setup at the shop, clamped down, blades layer out, 6+ reading glasses balanced on my nose . . . . when I went to tension the blade, I knew by feel, the tension was way too high, and pop, blade broke before tension was near full. The normal way of loading and tensioning the blades was never going to work. The shorter arm on the 16" makes a lot of difference in leverage. So, my Jeweler friends have woken up to the fact that a scroll saw can possibly replace their Jewelers saws, and a lot of them are looking for a saw, and I've been recommending the 16" which fits their project types perfectly (and is cheaper). So of course, we don't want folks messing with that back knob, but the answer was pretty simple, but hard to explain so I did a video. I which I had a "Presenters" type voice, but unfortunately, all I have in mine. Anyway, here is the short video demonstration geared to my Jeweler friends: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpvnN9bXw58 new2woodwrk and lawson56 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new2woodwrk Posted March 12, 2018 Report Share Posted March 12, 2018 Thanks for that - also allows me to see how to load any blade in the King - much easier than my Wen Is that tension issue for all blades or just the jeweler blades ? Doesn't the blade break because of the extra bend you put in it before tightening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotshot Posted March 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2018 This is only a problem with jewelers blades. The slight bend shown in the video doesn’t hurt the blade. new2woodwrk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.