New saw setup for the Delta

[SCROLLSAW703]

well, one thing is fer certain, if ya buy a Hawk, the manual is needed, & has legible words & even nice pictures fer them that don't understand. And ya got excellent tech support & parts availability. And, a shiny price tag. It's like buyin' a good horse. Ya want one that'll jump a four rail fence & do his job in the pasture around cattle? Or do ya want one just to say ya own one?

Like Kevin said, do not try to break open any factory seals until your warranty has run out. & if you do have it worked on by delta, you'll wind up with an extended warranty just on what was repaired. Leave it be for now & make sawdust. 
The air hose, if it's the clikconnect type, which is grey, or black, & flexes, that broke, like kevin said also, is an easy fix for now until you call can delta on monday. hot water & patience does the trick. The only real part of it you're really movin' is the tip & a few sections behind it. 

I'd recommend ya spend a little time readin' your manual. It will tell ya more than ya think. Even how to install the blades & tension them. For awhile, ya may want to follow that til the machine gets "broke in" & ya get used to it.;) Save ya lots headaches! 

The one other thing i reckon I'd do is, after ya peel that protective plastic off'n the sawdeck, take a lint free rag & some naptha or mineral spirits & wipe it down, then get ya a couple coats of wax on that cast iron. You'll be ahead of the game if ya do!

[new2woodwrk]

15 minutes ago, SCROLLSAW703 said:

well, one thing is fer certain, if ya buy a Hawk, the manual is needed, & has legible words & even nice pictures fer them that don't understand. And ya got excellent tech support & parts availability. And, a shiny price tag. It's like buyin' a good horse. Ya want one that'll jump a four rail fence & do his job in the pasture around cattle? Or do ya want one just to say ya own one?

Like Kevin said, do not try to break open any factory seals until your warranty has run out. & if you do have it worked on by delta, you'll wind up with an extended warranty just on what was repaired. Leave it be for now & make sawdust. 
The air hose, if it's the clikconnect type, which is grey, or black, & flexes, that broke, like kevin said also, is an easy fix for now until you call can delta on monday. hot water & patience does the trick. The only real part of it you're really movin' is the tip & a few sections behind it. 

I'd recommend ya spend a little time readin' your manual. It will tell ya more than ya think. Even how to install the blades & tension them. For awhile, ya may want to follow that til the machine gets "broke in" & ya get used to it.;) Save ya lots headaches! 

The one other thing i reckon I'd do is, after ya peel that protective plastic off'n the sawdeck, take a lint free rag & some naptha or mineral spirits & wipe it down, then get ya a couple coats of wax on that cast iron. You'll be ahead of the game if ya do!

Thanks @SCROLLSAW703

The manual leaves much to be desired - it's all of 4 pages LOL - but yeah, I did go through it last night, and set up a new blade ready to go this morning.

I'm not opening anything on a new machine LOL - if it needs work it's going back as broke and I'll get a new one

I already wiped down all the metal pieces with MS to remove the oil and packing grease, and put on the first coat of wax - actually the wife put her first coat of wax on the table - if she wants to use it, she learns all about taking care of it as well - but she's really good that way about things she enjoys.

[SCROLLSAW703]

good job, my friend! you're learnin'! Start makin' sawdust with'er, & let's see what she's made of!;);)

[jerry1939]

When shipped from the factory. the left screw in each blade clamp is not adjusted properly.  As the blade goes up & down, it cuts a wide path. With a tensioned blade mounted, push the blade up. I used a thin metal ruler clamped to the side of the table to just touch the blade.  Now push the blade down a check the distance.  You probably need to adjust the left screws to get the same clearance both up & down.  LockTite on 1 of my screws doesn't hold, so I bought a longer screw & put a lock nut on it.

The "protractor" under the table is a cruel manufacturer's joke.  In order to get the zero centering pin to engage anywhere close to 90 degrees, I had to replace 1 of the protractor cap screws with a longer one and add washers between the protractor (angle gauge) & the bottom of the table.

The easiest way to set the blade 90 degrees to the table is to take a block of wood (I used 1/2" X 2", on edge), & cut into it the thickness of the blade.  Swing the blade around to the back of the blade.  If it fits easily into the slot, you are good.  If not, loosen the knob slightly and strike the edge of the table.  Repeat as needed to get the perfect angle.  Next I went out to end of my block, cut 1 slot, rounded the end to make it pretty and drilled a hole for hanging.  I use it a lot, after each time the table has been tilted.  If the block is held against the back of the blade and lines up perfectly, you are good to go.  Lastly, go here:

 jerry

[jerry1939]

That didn't load properly.  Try this:  http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42546

Sorry.  I can't get to open.  I Googled Protractor, imported into inkscape.  Made a protractor, laminated to & glued it on to 1/8" BB.  Cut just outside the bottom line and sanded to the line.  It was time well spent.

jerry

[OCtoolguy]

On 3/17/2018 at 5:50 PM, jerry1939 said:

That didn't load properly.  Try this:  http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42546

Sorry.  I can't get to open.  I Googled Protractor, imported into inkscape.  Made a protractor, laminated to & glued it on to 1/8" BB.  Cut just outside the bottom line and sanded to the line.  It was time well spent.

jerry

Thanks Jerry. I opened ok for me. You are having the same problem I had. You can't click your own link. But, we can.

Ray