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Some advise and observations


lew

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Lew, I agree with a lot of what you stated, but not with all of it. You are about the only person I know of, that sprays the glue onto the block of taped up wood with glue before adding the pattern. That's backwards in my book, and it leads to a lot of mess. You would be forever getting the excess glue on your fingers, when you touched the block where there is no pattern applied. The best and proven way to glue your pattern to the wood, is to just apply glue to the back of the pattern. I usually use square or rectangular stock, and before adding glue any pattern I want to cut. I cut away the excess paper so that I know where to spray the glue, doing it this way I don't waste a bunch of glue  by spraying it where it isn't needed. 

Len

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8 hours ago, Lucky2 said:

Lew, I agree with a lot of what you stated, but not with all of it. You are about the only person I know of, that sprays the glue onto the block of taped up wood with glue before adding the pattern. That's backwards in my book, and it leads to a lot of mess. You would be forever getting the excess glue on your fingers, when you touched the block where there is no pattern applied. The best and proven way to glue your pattern to the wood, is to just apply glue to the back of the pattern. I usually use square or rectangular stock, and before adding glue any pattern I want to cut. I cut away the excess paper so that I know where to spray the glue, doing it this way I don't waste a bunch of glue  by spraying it where it isn't needed. 

Len

That's me....doing things backwards and causing extra work and effort!!! Thanks for the advice! I will try your method....which makes much more sense! The only question I have is how do you remove the excess adhesive that remains on the wood? 

Again, thanks for the help!

Lew

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I prefer using blue tape on the wood and spraying the pattern piece with 3M77.  I find that on some woods, getting spray adhesive on the wood at times will interfere with finishing.

I do not use a dead man switch.  It is uncomfortable for me to have to keep a foot near the switch.  Maybe because I do not do fretwork, I do not need to turn my saw on and off as much. But, if it works for you, that is good.

I think it is a good idea to try different blades to see how they do with splintering or fuzzies on the back side.  IMHO, different woods react differently and may need different blades. I have tried the reverse tooth blades but prefer the Ultra Reverse style ad use the Flying Dutchman brand.

There is so much variation in how people work, their saws and ability.  The best advice is to experiment with various techniques, blades and positions.... find what works best for you.  

My best piece of advice is to find a good chair or stool that makes you comfortable and gives good support.

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9 hours ago, lew said:

That's me....doing things backwards and causing extra work and effort!!! Thanks for the advice! I will try your method....which makes much more sense! The only question I have is how do you remove the excess adhesive that remains on the wood? 

Again, thanks for the help!

Lew

Lew, there is no excess glue to worry about, the glue is only on the back of the pattern pieces. When you remove the pattern, the glue gets removed automatically. There is no pattern glue that gets onto the wood, because you covered the wood with masking tape before you added the pattern. 

Len

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1 hour ago, Lucky2 said:

Lew, there is no excess glue to worry about, the glue is only on the back of the pattern pieces. When you remove the pattern, the glue gets removed automatically. There is no pattern glue that gets onto the wood, because you covered the wood with masking tape before you added the pattern. 

Len

thanks! now I understand!!...I've never been called the sharpest knife in the drawer!!!

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I will add a few more:

Always make sure of the contents of a spray can before pressing the button.  Black lacquer and clear lacquer often come from the same manufacturer.

A mistake on the scrap side of the line is just practice. (A mistake near the line is artistic license)

Scroll saws are horrible devices for trimming your fingernails.

Don't sand upwind from projects that are on the drying rack.

Don't leave your drink downwind from your sanding station.

Don't ask how I know these important lessons.  :o

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8 hours ago, Jim McDonald said:

I will add a few more:

Always make sure of the contents of a spray can before pressing the button.  Black lacquer and clear lacquer often come from the same manufacturer.

A mistake on the scrap side of the line is just practice. (A mistake near the line is artistic license)

Scroll saws are horrible devices for trimming your fingernails.

Don't sand upwind from projects that are on the drying rack.

Don't leave your drink downwind from your sanding station.

Don't ask how I know these important lessons.  :o

Important lessons learnt.  Especially the first one.

Marg

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didn't we have one of these threads just not to long ago? 

i would have to also say, to add to your list, do as much of your sanding as you can. down to finish sanding, before you tape the wood. some may differ in opinion, but it'll save ya headaches in the end. example: as soon as you get your pattern cleaned off & the project is clean, i wipe mine down with mineral spirits. you can lightly go over the project with a palm sander, & not only put a finishing surface on it, but get most of the little fuzzies. 

when ya spray your adhesive on the back of the pattern, learn to use light spray coats. there ain't no need to "saturate" the pattern with adhesive. i hang my patterns on a cord or small rope with a couple clothes pins, spray the adhesive on it, then let it dry awhile, & stick it. no problems with movin.

i would also mention, if you choose to sit to scroll, choose a chair with some back & full leg support, & that puts you higher than your saw deck. I sit in a barbers' chair, & have for years. it gives me the ability to adjust heights to my different saws. a foot switch ain't a necessity right out of the chute. learn the process of how scrollin' works first, & if you're even goin' to like it & keep scrollin'.

No offense mr. lew. it's good information. 

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3 hours ago, SCROLLSAW703 said:

didn't we have one of these threads just not to long ago? 

i would have to also say, to add to your list, do as much of your sanding as you can. down to finish sanding, before you tape the wood. some may differ in opinion, but it'll save ya headaches in the end. example: as soon as you get your pattern cleaned off & the project is clean, i wipe mine down with mineral spirits. you can lightly go over the project with a palm sander, & not only put a finishing surface on it, but get most of the little fuzzies. 

when ya spray your adhesive on the back of the pattern, learn to use light spray coats. there ain't no need to "saturate" the pattern with adhesive. i hang my patterns on a cord or small rope with a couple clothes pins, spray the adhesive on it, then let it dry awhile, & stick it. no problems with movin.

i would also mention, if you choose to sit to scroll, choose a chair with some back & full leg support, & that puts you higher than your saw deck. I sit in a barbers' chair, & have for years. it gives me the ability to adjust heights to my different saws. a foot switch ain't a necessity right out of the chute. learn the process of how scrollin' works first, & if you're even goin' to like it & keep scrollin'.

No offense mr. lew. it's good information. 

Certainly no offense!!  I am grateful for all the info and advice I have received in just the short time I have been part of this community!

 

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The best advice I received when I first started scrolling were two simple things:

Relax, drop your shoulders down.  I did realize until I read that that I was so tense when scrolling I had my shoulders up around my ears!

Breath normal, which also means relax..  I realized I was holding my breath do to being tense. 

Paid attention to these to things and I really started enjoying scrolling. 

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