Popular Post lew Posted March 17, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Based on my many minutes of scroll saw experience I offer these thoughts to the other new folks like me! Not in any particular order...just random electrical impulses from my brain..... By and use a footswitch. I just purchased a dead man's style. Amazed at the control it gives you. You can easily stop and start the saw to turn your piece or check your lines and the pattern you're following. Wax the table. It makes the work slide and move so much easier. Only be aware that it can also speed up the movement so learn to adjust for that. I tried different methods of attaching the pattern to the wood. I decided, that for me, I like to apply painters tape to the wood, spray the taped surface with 3M Super 77, then apply the pattern. There is no movement or tearing away of the pattern as you cut. Then just peel off the blue tape and the remaining pattern and adhesive pulls away. I used to get the little fuzzys unde the wood all the time. After advice from the good people here, I switched to a reverse skip tooth blade.....what a difference! Get good name brand blades.....not the junk from Home Depot or Sears. Do the research to understand the difference in blades and their applications. Make sure your work station is comfortable and has room to move about. Alternate between standing and sitting to determine what works for you. When things start to go south....take a break and walk away! Work slow if you need to. Currently I have my saw on the slowest speed possible. It works for my ability at this time. It's supposed to be fun..not a race! When questions arise, check the forums here to see if your problem or situation has already been discussed. If not just ask....I guarantee you'll get the answer! Post your work from time to time so others can advise and see your progress. Well, that's about it....sorry for rambling, but maybe that person who just started, ...like me....may pick up some useful info!!!! Thanks! Lew Joe W., barb.j.enders, Dave Monk and 9 others 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawk Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Well put.... SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meflick Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Sounds like some great advise we all have learned at different times, and sometimes find we have to relearn some of it. Thanks for posting. SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodduck Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 So true Lew well put. SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonylumps Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 You covered it all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new2woodwrk Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 LEW! You go guy! Thanks for the insights! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianr24 Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Great advice. I would also add strong lighting and magnifiers really helped me. SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Lew, I agree with a lot of what you stated, but not with all of it. You are about the only person I know of, that sprays the glue onto the block of taped up wood with glue before adding the pattern. That's backwards in my book, and it leads to a lot of mess. You would be forever getting the excess glue on your fingers, when you touched the block where there is no pattern applied. The best and proven way to glue your pattern to the wood, is to just apply glue to the back of the pattern. I usually use square or rectangular stock, and before adding glue any pattern I want to cut. I cut away the excess paper so that I know where to spray the glue, doing it this way I don't waste a bunch of glue by spraying it where it isn't needed. Len NC Scroller and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 8 hours ago, Lucky2 said: Lew, I agree with a lot of what you stated, but not with all of it. You are about the only person I know of, that sprays the glue onto the block of taped up wood with glue before adding the pattern. That's backwards in my book, and it leads to a lot of mess. You would be forever getting the excess glue on your fingers, when you touched the block where there is no pattern applied. The best and proven way to glue your pattern to the wood, is to just apply glue to the back of the pattern. I usually use square or rectangular stock, and before adding glue any pattern I want to cut. I cut away the excess paper so that I know where to spray the glue, doing it this way I don't waste a bunch of glue by spraying it where it isn't needed. Len That's me....doing things backwards and causing extra work and effort!!! Thanks for the advice! I will try your method....which makes much more sense! The only question I have is how do you remove the excess adhesive that remains on the wood? Again, thanks for the help! Lew SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sycamore67 Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 I prefer using blue tape on the wood and spraying the pattern piece with 3M77. I find that on some woods, getting spray adhesive on the wood at times will interfere with finishing. I do not use a dead man switch. It is uncomfortable for me to have to keep a foot near the switch. Maybe because I do not do fretwork, I do not need to turn my saw on and off as much. But, if it works for you, that is good. I think it is a good idea to try different blades to see how they do with splintering or fuzzies on the back side. IMHO, different woods react differently and may need different blades. I have tried the reverse tooth blades but prefer the Ultra Reverse style ad use the Flying Dutchman brand. There is so much variation in how people work, their saws and ability. The best advice is to experiment with various techniques, blades and positions.... find what works best for you. My best piece of advice is to find a good chair or stool that makes you comfortable and gives good support. Lucky2 and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 9 hours ago, lew said: That's me....doing things backwards and causing extra work and effort!!! Thanks for the advice! I will try your method....which makes much more sense! The only question I have is how do you remove the excess adhesive that remains on the wood? Again, thanks for the help! Lew Lew, there is no excess glue to worry about, the glue is only on the back of the pattern pieces. When you remove the pattern, the glue gets removed automatically. There is no pattern glue that gets onto the wood, because you covered the wood with masking tape before you added the pattern. Len SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Lucky2 said: Lew, there is no excess glue to worry about, the glue is only on the back of the pattern pieces. When you remove the pattern, the glue gets removed automatically. There is no pattern glue that gets onto the wood, because you covered the wood with masking tape before you added the pattern. Len thanks! now I understand!!...I've never been called the sharpest knife in the drawer!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim McDonald Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I will add a few more: Always make sure of the contents of a spray can before pressing the button. Black lacquer and clear lacquer often come from the same manufacturer. A mistake on the scrap side of the line is just practice. (A mistake near the line is artistic license) Scroll saws are horrible devices for trimming your fingernails. Don't sand upwind from projects that are on the drying rack. Don't leave your drink downwind from your sanding station. Don't ask how I know these important lessons. meflick, SCROLLSAW703, wombatie and 1 other 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 8 hours ago, Jim McDonald said: I will add a few more: Always make sure of the contents of a spray can before pressing the button. Black lacquer and clear lacquer often come from the same manufacturer. A mistake on the scrap side of the line is just practice. (A mistake near the line is artistic license) Scroll saws are horrible devices for trimming your fingernails. Don't sand upwind from projects that are on the drying rack. Don't leave your drink downwind from your sanding station. Don't ask how I know these important lessons. Important lessons learnt. Especially the first one. Marg SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCROLLSAW703 Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 didn't we have one of these threads just not to long ago? i would have to also say, to add to your list, do as much of your sanding as you can. down to finish sanding, before you tape the wood. some may differ in opinion, but it'll save ya headaches in the end. example: as soon as you get your pattern cleaned off & the project is clean, i wipe mine down with mineral spirits. you can lightly go over the project with a palm sander, & not only put a finishing surface on it, but get most of the little fuzzies. when ya spray your adhesive on the back of the pattern, learn to use light spray coats. there ain't no need to "saturate" the pattern with adhesive. i hang my patterns on a cord or small rope with a couple clothes pins, spray the adhesive on it, then let it dry awhile, & stick it. no problems with movin. i would also mention, if you choose to sit to scroll, choose a chair with some back & full leg support, & that puts you higher than your saw deck. I sit in a barbers' chair, & have for years. it gives me the ability to adjust heights to my different saws. a foot switch ain't a necessity right out of the chute. learn the process of how scrollin' works first, & if you're even goin' to like it & keep scrollin'. No offense mr. lew. it's good information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 3 hours ago, SCROLLSAW703 said: didn't we have one of these threads just not to long ago? i would have to also say, to add to your list, do as much of your sanding as you can. down to finish sanding, before you tape the wood. some may differ in opinion, but it'll save ya headaches in the end. example: as soon as you get your pattern cleaned off & the project is clean, i wipe mine down with mineral spirits. you can lightly go over the project with a palm sander, & not only put a finishing surface on it, but get most of the little fuzzies. when ya spray your adhesive on the back of the pattern, learn to use light spray coats. there ain't no need to "saturate" the pattern with adhesive. i hang my patterns on a cord or small rope with a couple clothes pins, spray the adhesive on it, then let it dry awhile, & stick it. no problems with movin. i would also mention, if you choose to sit to scroll, choose a chair with some back & full leg support, & that puts you higher than your saw deck. I sit in a barbers' chair, & have for years. it gives me the ability to adjust heights to my different saws. a foot switch ain't a necessity right out of the chute. learn the process of how scrollin' works first, & if you're even goin' to like it & keep scrollin'. No offense mr. lew. it's good information. Certainly no offense!! I am grateful for all the info and advice I have received in just the short time I have been part of this community! SCROLLSAW703 and Lucky2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 The best advice I received when I first started scrolling were two simple things: Relax, drop your shoulders down. I did realize until I read that that I was so tense when scrolling I had my shoulders up around my ears! Breath normal, which also means relax.. I realized I was holding my breath do to being tense. Paid attention to these to things and I really started enjoying scrolling. SCROLLSAW703 and Lucky2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 I think the best advice I received was to control the piece with my fingers and not with my wrists or arms. SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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