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Varnish or not to Varnish??


3Dface

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side thread to "Elmers Spray Adhesive By Rockytime"

 i am doing experiments today for my 3Ds.

had a 3M 77 applies cover start to peal up. that is with 5 coats of clear spray matte over it.

i am trying 7 different combos of mod-podge 3M 77 and clear coats.

i do not have any experience with Varnish. can anyone tell me if it turns white or chips at the edge of a cut? is there any "Hard drying" treatment you would advise?

thanks 

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If you want a deep looking clear finish that is quite durable try Rustoleum Triple Thick Glaze. I've used it on jigsaw puzzles and was happy with the look. 

For the adhesive, I used Aleen's clear spray glue. It worked for me on the puzzles. Some other puzzle makers used Aleen's bottle glue and spread it on. Ether way seems to work. 

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14 minutes ago, Dan said:

If you want a deep looking clear finish that is quite durable try Rustoleum Triple Thick Glaze. I've used it on jigsaw puzzles and was happy with the look. 

For the adhesive, I used Aleen's clear spray glue. It worked for me on the puzzles. Some other puzzle makers used Aleen's bottle glue and spread it on. Ether way seems to work. 

did you glue pictures to the face of the puzzles? i think i have the glaze... will have to look and just ordered the spray glue.

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1 hour ago, Rockytime said:

This does not answer your question but I have not heard about varnish for many years. But, as a kid I remember my mother varnishing things. I think that's the last time I heard about varnish.

i have 3 very old 1gal cans. used some about 3 months ago to seal a table that is about as old. i was very surprised it still worked. my neighbor has a can shaker i put the can in for about 30 min before i used it.

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2 hours ago, 3Dface said:

did you glue pictures to the face of the puzzles? i think i have the glaze... will have to look and just ordered the spray glue.

Yes I did glue the pictures to the wood then sprayed 2 or 3 coats of the Glaze then cut the puzzles. I always let the glue set for 24 hours. Also lest the Glaze dry 24 hours before cutting. 

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I've done the arleens tacky glue for puzzles and then used the triple thick glaze as Dan mentioned with good results..  But the trick with that glue is getting it on thick and smooth enough.. my first puzzle I got it on too thick and it ended up with some lumps or dips in it where I picked it up before the glue had dried.. so next time I made a fairly thin smooth gluing.. but in sawing it it lifted off the board.. Next puzzle came out better.. but I think a spray glue like for patterns might be a easier better option.. haven't tried that one yet though.. 

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4 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I've done the arleens tacky glue for puzzles and then used the triple thick glaze as Dan mentioned with good results..  But the trick with that glue is getting it on thick and smooth enough.. my first puzzle I got it on too thick and it ended up with some lumps or dips in it where I picked it up before the glue had dried.. so next time I made a fairly thin smooth gluing.. but in sawing it it lifted off the board.. Next puzzle came out better.. but I think a spray glue like for patterns might be a easier better option.. haven't tried that one yet though.. 

Yes, I'm glad you mentioned that. I bought a wallpaper seam roller to smooth things out and get the glue to spread evenly. 

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5 minutes ago, Dan said:

Yes, I'm glad you mentioned that. I bought a wallpaper seam roller to smooth things out and get the glue to spread evenly. 

That's a good idea... I used a credit card to try to keep it smooth.. did okay with it.. but then I picked it up about 20 min. later and put finger imprints in it.. and I couldn't get them smoothed out..

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I do not know what you do so I can not add anything useful. I wish you would include what you are trying to do. Your sign-on name means nothing to me so the 3D stuff is not ringing any bells. Would like to help. In pen turning we put decals and photos on pen tubes all the time and cast and maybe this can carry over into what you are trying. Maybe a photo or two can help too. If not then I assume the help you have gotten does work for you. Good luck.

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7 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I do not know what you do so I can not add anything useful. I wish you would include what you are trying to do. Your sign-on name means nothing to me so the 3D stuff is not ringing any bells. Would like to help. In pen turning we put decals and photos on pen tubes all the time and cast and maybe this can carry over into what you are trying. Maybe a photo or two can help too. If not then I assume the help you have gotten does work for you. Good luck.

i am sorry. i had posted pics before but should have included one here.

smallbeatles.jpg.bbf7d45b609ebd15f05d8c125a940255.jpg

IMG_20171209_131213.thumb.jpg.13e99adc068e926d7c44dbcad2a8a06a.jpg

this is the one peeling up. the tiny piece between hulks hand and the gun.

hulk15percent.thumb.jpg.d56486b185124c52449e3c8448a3400f.jpg

 

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23 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I do not know what you do so I can not add anything useful. I wish you would include what you are trying to do. Your sign-on name means nothing to me so the 3D stuff is not ringing any bells. Would like to help. In pen turning we put decals and photos on pen tubes all the time and cast and maybe this can carry over into what you are trying. Maybe a photo or two can help too. If not then I assume the help you have gotten does work for you. Good luck.

i am sorry. i had posted pics before but should have included one here.

smallbeatles.jpg.bbf7d45b609ebd15f05d8c125a940255.jpg

IMG_20171209_131213.thumb.jpg.13e99adc068e926d7c44dbcad2a8a06a.jpg

this is the one peeling up. the tiny piece between hulks hand and the gun.

hulk15percent.thumb.jpg.d56486b185124c52449e3c8448a3400f.jpg

here is the back

IMG_20180108_142225.thumb.jpg.f52773e60ba3a500ac3d179b6b6921a7.jpg

i scroll portraits mostly. i am also using, posters (Beatles) , photos of friends , comic book covers (hulk)

and album covers

billy2.thumb.jpg.43da054f070131df08bb8b38251bf96f.jpg

 and i use them as a pattern. each part of the pic is cut out in a way that lets me glue the parts back together in the layers this was in real life. counting the background this one is cut into 9 pieces and in 8 layers.

before

 

5aaf20d095f22_darrencut.thumb.jpg.e836e24f407f80d4fe2d9983fba34650.jpg

glued back together in 7 layers

IMG_20171209_131213.thumb.jpg.acc8157b8c1f9297fcd58786293fed0e.jpg

 

that help?:)

 

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It is starting to get clearer. Have you been doing this long and have you just started having problems??  Is this something new you are trying or is this something that just started happening. I do not like the idea of gluing photos or anything to wood because wood moves and always will,even if sealed. MDF or even particle board.(which probably would not look good on the edges)  something of this nature would be a better substrate in my opinion and it needs to be sealed also before attaching any photos. Looks like you use plywood. If you do not seal the substrate it will absorb the adhesive and starve the joints or in this case layers. 

When doing veneers in woodworking you always need to balance both sides of the veneers or else they will creep is what it is called. You top coat a veneer and the bottom side moves more that the top thus causing lift and usually air bubbles under it. In pen turning when people use decals on a tube the tube is solid and does not move but being it is cast in clear resin moisture is an enemy so it needs to be sealed and usually some people use modpodge or just clear acrylic polyurethane sprays. Then the can cast. 

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On 3/17/2018 at 4:41 PM, Dan said:

If you want a deep looking clear finish that is quite durable try Rustoleum Triple Thick Glaze. I've used it on jigsaw puzzles and was happy with the look. 

For the adhesive, I used Aleen's clear spray glue. It worked for me on the puzzles. Some other puzzle makers used Aleen's bottle glue and spread it on. Ether way seems to work. 

DAMN! that is some sticky stuff!!!!!

dropped one corner and almost did not get it corrected.

do you put your 1st coat of glaze on thick to soak into the photo or just light coats?

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On 3/18/2018 at 10:53 PM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

It is starting to get clearer. Have you been doing this long and have you just started having problems??  Is this something new you are trying or is this something that just started happening. I do not like the idea of gluing photos or anything to wood because wood moves and always will,even if sealed. MDF or even particle board.(which probably would not look good on the edges)  something of this nature would be a better substrate in my opinion and it needs to be sealed also before attaching any photos. Looks like you use plywood. If you do not seal the substrate it will absorb the adhesive and starve the joints or in this case layers. 

When doing veneers in woodworking you always need to balance both sides of the veneers or else they will creep is what it is called. You top coat a veneer and the bottom side moves more that the top thus causing lift and usually air bubbles under it. In pen turning when people use decals on a tube the tube is solid and does not move but being it is cast in clear resin moisture is an enemy so it needs to be sealed and usually some people use modpodge or just clear acrylic polyurethane sprays. Then the can cast. 

i learn things here every day.... i am glad i found this place... thank you....

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