1/8, 1/4 or larger - how do you decide?

[new2woodwrk]

Preface:

I'm still working with plywood 1/8-1/4 - I've done a few 3/4", but I've stopped doing them cause I suck at them

I'm not really looking for tried and true answers, but more on what you all use and how you decide on what thickness you'll use - I'll ask about wood choice at a later date LOL

The questions

I've got several projects currently waiting for cutting. They're glued and drilled just waiting their turn. Most are stacked at least 2 up - I find this to be the easiest for me to cut decently atm.

However, one issue I wrestle with is how/when to decide what thickness of wood to use when I finally go back to non plywood.

1. I think Clocks  and puzzles would be 1/2-3/4" and not stacked - yes?
2. Portraits 1/8,1/4,1/2 stacked - yes?
3. Ornaments - like xmas stuff, hanging stuff this is where I tend to lose it - I've been using 1/8-1/4 seems to work fine
4. What about segmentations? Non plywood?

I realize it's all subjective, but being new it's really difficult to decide if what I am cutting would have been better on a thicker piece of wood

Thanks as always in advance

[kmmcrafts]

I'm not sure there is any kind of rules as to sizing.. 

I typically cut my clocks from 5/8 ish solid wood... usually Cherry.. I plane it down to 5/8 for two reasons.. One.. I think the thicker wood for clocks starts making them look too bulky.. not to mention taking longer to cut the thicker wood.. also.. planing it down removes some weight.. since I sell online.. weight is a factor to consider.. while I don't pay the shipping anyway.. it still adds up for the customer.. One could make clocks out of much thinner wood than 5/8 even.. but too much less than 5/8 especially once you get down to 1/2 or less.. then it makes me feel like its too thin and sort of cheapens the look.. This is solely just my opinion so who knows how the customer feels.. but I sort of feel 5/8 is sort of in the middle of the two and seems to be what I like..

When it comes to ornaments.. some I make are 1/4 and some are from 1/8... again just an opinion.. but I feel the 1/4" ones are a little on the bulky side.. and for me 1/8 is very slightly on the thin side.. some folks use much thinner than 1/8 for ornaments.. I think it was Rolf that cuts them from 3/32? not sure what the size was he uses but it's real thin stuff.. Personally I like to cut the thinner stock due to being able to stack cut.. typically stack cut however many it takes to get 1/2 - 3/4 thick stacks.. so if I stack 1/8" I get to cut double the amount.. weight on something like ornaments doesn't change enough to matter which one I use... For a while I had planed my own lumber to 3/16.. for the ornaments.. I liked them in between.. but I typically stopped doing that because the cost factor in time.. Being a business sometimes you have to make a choice in these factors to keep the cost down for customers.. so I generally now just use 1/8 BB ply..

Portraits for me... are always cut from 1/8".. mostly BB ply but also have done many from 1/8 Red Oak.. and afew from 1/8 Oak ply..

If it's a plaque type wall hang that isn't framed.. I typically cut from 1/8 and glue to a backer that is 1/4.. 

Many patterns recommend X size.. I many times will cut patterns that recommend 1/2 or more.. I cut them in 1/8 and glue to a backer.. why 1/8? because my mind is in production type mode.. and I feel like way only make 2 from 1/4 when I can make 4 from 1/8.. so my mind thinks in these terms.. from a business standpoint.. I factor in productivity and weight into my final piece.. to help keep cost down.. 

Cannot mention on segmentation etc as I haven't done any of that yet..

  

[new2woodwrk]

Thanks Kevin - great explanations and greatly appreciated!

[Bill WIlson]

1 hour ago, new2woodwrk said:

Preface:

I'm still working with plywood 1/8-1/4 - I've done a few 3/4", but I've stopped doing them cause I suck at them

I'm not really looking for tried and true answers, but more on what you all use and how you decide on what thickness you'll use - I'll ask about wood choice at a later date LOL

The questions

I've got several projects currently waiting for cutting. They're glued and drilled just waiting their turn. Most are stacked at least 2 up - I find this to be the easiest for me to cut decently atm.

However, one issue I wrestle with is how/when to decide what thickness of wood to use when I finally go back to non plywood.

1. I think Clocks  and puzzles would be 1/2-3/4" and not stacked - yes?
2. Portraits 1/8,1/4,1/2 stacked - yes?
3. Ornaments - like xmas stuff, hanging stuff this is where I tend to lose it - I've been using 1/8-1/4 seems to work fine
4. What about segmentations? Non plywood?

I realize it's all subjective, but being new it's really difficult to decide if what I am cutting would have been better on a thicker piece of wood

Thanks as always in advance

1.  I typically use the recommended thickness for any clock patterns I make.  This is especially true of any 3 dimensional clocks, where assembly is required.  On these you can adjust the thickness of the wood, but you have to compensate in the dimensions of the various pieces that fit together, especially if there is tab & slot joinery involved.   Also, you need to consider how the clock workings fit into the piece.  That sometimes determines thickness.  I don't stack cut anything where the total thickness of the stack would exceed 3/4" thick.

2.  I think portraits benefit from using thinner stock.  I prefer 1/8", but I accumulate cut offs of 1/4" BB ply from other projects that I will sometimes use for portrait style projects.

3.  Over they years, I've cut thousands of ornaments.  If I'm using BB ply, then I cut them from 1/8".  I think thinner material looks better and it's easier/faster to stack cut them.  If I'm using solid wood, I may go 3/16" thick, especially if the pattern is delicate and potentially fragile.  I've made solid wood ornaments from 1/4" before and I think they look to chunky.  It's a matter of personal taste.

4.  I don't do a lot of segmentation, but the few things I have done tend to be from thicker stock.  It's very similar to intarsia, in that you need some thickness in order to shape and add dimension and depth to the piece.

As you stated, it can be a very subjective thing.  Scrolling mostly isn't restricted by specific rules and standards when it comes to stuff like this.  Scrolling is a very aesthetic type of woodworking.  You don't have to worry much about the same kind of structural considerations that you do with cabinet or furniture making.  Let your eye and taste be your guide.  Make what appeals to you.  That is, unless you intend to sell, then I guess you are pretty much forced to make your stuff appeal to others. 

[3Dface]

1 hour ago, new2woodwrk said:

Preface:

I'm still working with plywood 1/8-1/4 - I've done a few 3/4", but I've stopped doing them cause I suck at them

I'm not really looking for tried and true answers, but more on what you all use and how you decide on what thickness you'll use - I'll ask about wood choice at a later date LOL

The questions

I've got several projects currently waiting for cutting. They're glued and drilled just waiting their turn. Most are stacked at least 2 up - I find this to be the easiest for me to cut decently atm.

However, one issue I wrestle with is how/when to decide what thickness of wood to use when I finally go back to non plywood.

1. I think Clocks  and puzzles would be 1/2-3/4" and not stacked - yes?
2. Portraits 1/8,1/4,1/2 stacked - yes?
3. Ornaments - like xmas stuff, hanging stuff this is where I tend to lose it - I've been using 1/8-1/4 seems to work fine
4. What about segmentations? Non plywood?

I realize it's all subjective, but being new it's really difficult to decide if what I am cutting would have been better on a thicker piece of wood

Thanks as always in advance

portraits are all i can speak to...

to me it is a matter of how many and what backer.

at Christmas i need 8 copies of each portrait. i used  1/8th" luan. it is thin enough to put in store bought frames. i also do this for clients. 

my "rock stars" i stack 1 layer 1/4" birch , 4 layers of 1/8" luan, 1 layer 1/4" birch. these are all backed with 1/8" melamine.

i went to get 1/8" luan and got 1/4" by mistake. just used it for 2 portraits each stacked 4 high. i love this stuff! 

my choice always comes down to is how many do i want/need.

 

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I agree scrolling is subjective to what people find the eye likes. I make clocks mainly and they range in 1/2" to 5/8"  in thickness but again it depends on the clock. Now if there are layers to it then that needs to be considered too. I do not make many portraits but have done in 1/4" material. I do not do scrolled ornaments any more. I turn ornaments now. I have done many clocks with 3/4" material also but again style is the key there. No hard fast rules.

[WayneMahler]

For me it all depends on the project at hand. Word art is normally 1/2", portraits are 1/8". Some plaques for hanging are 1/4". I have very little steadfast rules for other work. All depends on the project and desired effect I am looking for. As you can read from the replies people choose different thickness for different projects. I fully agree that most of it will depend on eye appeal which is very important if your selling your work. 

[SCROLLSAW703]

I, again agree with eye appeal. Most of my projects are 1/2" hardwood, unless the customer asks different. 

I use 1/8" for ornaments. I don't use much 1/4". 

 

[NC Scroller]

For ornaments I use 1/8" Baltic Birch and I will stack 5 or 6 .  The more detailed the less I stack.

For freestanding puzzles I use 3/4" hardwood.

For picture puzzled I use 1/4" Baltic Birch.

For portraits I use either 1/8" or 1 /4" Baltic Birch.  I stack 2 -4. 1/8" fits better in store bought frames.

For others:

If you buy patterns from most designers they normally recommend a thickness.  I normally try to follow their recommendations.  I have done test cuttings for Sue Mey.  I can tell you a number of thickness woods are tried before one is recommended.