Clear coat

[thatknobtony]

Have a question everyone.   I'm not rear sure of the tye of wood but it sucks up a clear coat in seconds. I can spray a whole can and stil it is missing large areas. Can anybody think of a fix for this problem

[thatknobtony]

[thatknobtony]

Sorry guys. This is why I'm not chatty. The second pic is the one I'm bitching about

[new2woodwrk]

I've been using prestain on my bare woods before apply finishes - it evens everything out

I'm sure others with more experience than I have better information though

[Rockytime]

What is pre-stain? Is it in a rattle can and what brand do you use?

[thatknobtony]

Thanks New. I'm willing to try anything

[thatknobtony]

That's a good question.  I had assumed it would say on the can

[dgman]

What kind of wood is it? Is it kiln dried? To what grit did you sand it to? What kind of finish did you use? These are thing we need to know before we can help.

[Rockytime]

What is pre-stain?

[WayneMahler]

The wood looks like Box Elder. But more information is needed to help you out. If you can answer the questions Dan asked above it would help. The more info you supply the better the answers you may get. 

[WayneMahler]

4 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

What is pre-stain?

Some companies call it wood conditioner, sanding sealer and the like. It helps seal the more porous woods ( pine for ex. ) to help it blotching when you apply the stain. Makes the stain appear more even over the project. If I remember right, MinWax has some good info on their website, been a good while since I was up there.

[thatknobtony]

Sorry Dan. I have no answers for you. It came as a package from a local wood show. The way you see it is the way I got it. No sanding, nothing. Just cutting.

[thatknobtony]

And I think you are right Wayne.  Box elder may have been written on the edge

[Rockytime]

11 minutes ago, WayneMahler said:

Some companies call it wood conditioner, sanding sealer and the like. It helps seal the more porous woods ( pine for ex. ) to help it blotching when you apply the stain. Makes the stain appear more even over the project. If I remember right, MinWax has some good info on their website, been a good while since I was up there.

Thanks Wayne!

[Sycamore67]

Many times, I will use clear shellac as a first coat and it works as a sealer and dries fast.

 

I do not care for using some of the words I have seen show up recently and in the second post in this thread.  Just not needed IMHO.

[Dan]

Almost definitely box elder. Try sanding to 120 grit then apply a coat of sanding sealer. It's a clear lacquer that helps seal porous wood. Then sand with 180 and 220 grit. Then apply your rattle can finish. Just follow the directions on the can of sanding sealer. 

Pre-stain is different and won't work as well. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

First if you sand to at least 220 grit you will close the grain some. I used Bulls eye Zinsser dewaxed shellac sealer if I need to do what you are asking. It dries quickly and any type top coat be applied over it without contamination and adhesion problems.