frame HELP!!! please

[3Dface]

i have made frames with flat stock. no problem 

it is using "corner trim" that i can not wrap my head around. 

i got the first corner!!! 

i cut it the top the same way i did the flat stock and it ended up being over an inch to long when i put on the first side.

 

i looked for videos that show how to do this but never found the right one.

so my question is: can anyone please tell me what i am doing wrong, or the trick to cutting the correct length?

 

-chris

 

 

[Bill WIlson]

Did you measure and cut the short point if the miter to the same dimension as the plywood?  You have to account for the depth of the "rabbet" when measuring the frame stock.  In other words, if your piece sets 1/2" inside the frame on each side, then you need to subtract 1" from the length of the frame, at the short points of the miter.  Turn the piece and frame sections upside down on your bench and look at it from the backside.  Note where the corners of the scrolled piece are, relative to the inside and outside dimensions of the frame.

Hope I explained this clearly enough.

[WayneMahler]

The easiest way I found and quickest is to cut the miter on one end. I go back to my bench, lay the art work on the frame upside down and mark the corner of the art work. Take a small carpenters square and bring that mark up to the top, line up the blade on my chop saw then make the mitered cut. Seems to eliminate getting measurements wrong and does not take much time to do it this. 

[new2woodwrk]

The formula as I've read it is:

W of piece + w of framing * 2, - width of rabbet.

So, an 11 x 14 piece with a 2" frame with a 1/4" rabbet should be:

W = 11 + 4 - 1/2 = 14 1/2

W = 14 + 4 - 1/2

14 1/2 x 17 1/2

HOWEVER - that never works for me LOL - I simply measure the width of the piece and that becomes the "short" edge of the  miter and subtract the width of the rabbet.

I prefer to use 'L" molding rather than fuss with miter cuts since I've not used my router more than once LOL

Also, I always cut both sides together so they are always the same length - top and bottom have to be equal and left and right have to be equal

Edited April 3, 2018 by new2woodwrk

[tomsteve]

aaaaahhh yes, the old measure twice cut 10 times situation! heres what id suggest:

what wayne said.

 

basically, picture your trim as flatwork.

 

[ScollSaw Slasher]

Cut yourself  one  4"-6" guide with one end  right and one end one left. Then cut the four framing pieces with about 2 " to spare. Obviously the first corner is easy with the right and left cut on piece one and two.. Now with the project upside down with your scene in place. use your guide to mark your cut for the opposing second angle on piece two. Make your cut on piece 3 to match up to the second angle on piece 2. Now take your guide to cut the opposing end of piece one and three. Then just match piece four to piece two and your ready to rock and roll. The only measurement is the length and width of the scene and add two inches or whatever makes you comfortable. Note, I don't care about rabbet depth etc. Just my technique.

Blake

[3Dface]

On 4/4/2018 at 5:42 AM, ScollSaw Slasher said:

Cut yourself  one  4"-6" guide with one end  right and one end one left. Then cut the four framing pieces with about 2 " to spare. Obviously the first corner is easy with the right and left cut on piece one and two.. Now with the project upside down with your scene in place. use your guide to mark your cut for the opposing second angle on piece two. Make your cut on piece 3 to match up to the second angle on piece 2. Now take your guide to cut the opposing end of piece one and three. Then just match piece four to piece two and your ready to rock and roll. The only measurement is the length and width of the scene and add two inches or whatever makes you comfortable. Note, I don't care about rabbet depth etc. Just my technique.

Blake

i am not sure if i got what you have said but this is what popped in my head after reading all of the posts.

thank you all so much. i learn here every time i visit.

OK....

i made my first corner and this was the next

so i took a scrap of the molding and did this

this is the result. not perfect but i will get there.

 

thank you all and i hope it helps others as well.

Edited April 5, 2018 by 3Dface

[Bill WIlson]

Concentrate on making the corners align and fit.  In the last picture you posted above, if you move the piece not held by the clamp down slightly to make it align with the bottom frame piece, it will look perfect.  If the frame is slightly larger than the piece, that is not a problem.  In fact, I usually shoot for that.  You can secure the piece in the frame any number of ways.  If you make it a slightly large, you have the luxury of having a little room to trim and tweak the joints, if necessary to get them to fit perfectly.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Take the guess work out of things and cut the molding upside down. Work from the back. As mentioned make the basic 2 cuts to form the first angle. Lay your project in and now mark the opposite inside edges on the back of the molding. I like to make a witness mark showing the angle of cut. Lay on chop saw or table saw and you can not go wrong if the jig or fence alignment is spot on.   Cut both lengths equal using a stop block. 

Edited April 5, 2018 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[tomsteve]

actually 3D, that cut looks pretty good but the trim on the left should slide out/down a skosh.

are ya trying to get the frame to fit exactly? when working with frame material such as you have, and with what is going in it, i like to have a bit of room around the perimiter- about an 1/8" or so total.

occasionally ive made a frame a skosh too small and cut the work to fit. 

edit-

now that i read other replies

 

what bill wilson said.

Edited April 7, 2018 by tomsteve