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How many kinds of blades is enough?


justdraftn

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I will let someone else tell you how many is "enough" ;) As I have no real idea.  I think it depends in part on what type of cutting(s) you do.  I think most find they end up using just a few "regularly" and then have others for when the "need" for them arises. There was a thread on here not too long ago where people shared the different types of holders they use with their blades.  I will see if I can find it.

I use a pattern of one that Steve Good has on his site.  I modified it a little to make it a little longer though so that it holds more tubes. Looks like his may be 5 on each side for a total of 10.  I will find a link to his pattern and post it as well.  If you are interested in it, but want the larger modified version I made - pm me with your email and I will send you my modified pattern. (Now off to find those links for you.)

Edited: Here is link to the one from Steve's site that I built (I just checked, I add one more spot on each side so mine holds 12 where his does 10. So you could build two of his to hold your 20 tubes you bought.) 

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2017/01/scroll-saw-blade-holder-pattern.html

If you search his site for "blade holder" you can see several other ideas he has shared over the years on his blog as well.

and here is the link to the thread(s) where some of us shared what we did for blade storage/organization:

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/27667-saw-blade-organization/?tab=comments#comment-307145

and then also this one as a followup: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/28438-blade-storage/?tab=comments#comment-315626

There are no doubt others from the past but these are the two most recent ones.

Edited by meflick
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what meflick said. Personally, I keep 21 different sizes & types of blades in inventory. I cut all hardwood projects. That isn't the deciding factor of the number of blades I keep. 
I do fret work, inlays, lettering, design work, etc. Everything I cut is 1/2" projects, unless I'm cuttin' feathers or fret work. 

I keep spiral blades, skip tooth blades, & polar blades, & some reverse blades, too. I've not a project yet, unless it's a small project, that will use more than one size or type of blade. Ya just have to find the blades that work best for the projects you cut, & as you gain experience, try different blades & sizes. Figure out what works for you, & keep those blades on hand.

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Not intending hijack this thread but on the subject of blades, a lot has been said about brand and type of blades. My question is, how do you really know when a blade is worn out and needs to be replaced. I have cut entire projects with the same blade and it was still doing ok but I"m sure I should have changed it for a new one. I watch for any burning but as for speed of cutting, I haven't actually seen that time when I should have changed the blade. I will say though that I have noticed a huge difference between the reverse tooth blades opposed to the none reverse ones. The wood doesn't have that "jumpy" feeling. 

Ray

 

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I don't really know how many different blades I keep on hand... but I do have a holder that holds ( I think ) 16 tubes.. or maybe it's 24 tubes.. either way. the holder is full.. and I have at least a half dozen more tubes with blades in them... I do a wide variety of cutting.. but not all the time.. Typically use on a regular basis 4 different blades.. .. I could eliminate quite a few of the tubes.. if I'd just use up some of the blades.. as some of these are blades i bought as samples..  I probably should either use them up or give some of them away.. 

I bought a sample pack a few years back of the Pegas MG blades... liked them so much that I now have a gross or so of FD-UR blades that I haven't touched since finding that I like the Pegas.. I bought several samples of the Pegas.. Ie scroll reverse, MG, skip tooth etc etc... But the MG lades out of all the samples are my favorite.. 

Sometimes in a very fragile piece I will swap a regular ( non reverse) blade in.. those reverse teeth can mess up a real fragile cut.. so having a wide variety of blades for me is a must have..     

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5 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Not intending hijack this thread but on the subject of blades, a lot has been said about brand and type of blades. My question is, how do you really know when a blade is worn out and needs to be replaced. I have cut entire projects with the same blade and it was still doing ok but I"m sure I should have changed it for a new one. I watch for any burning but as for speed of cutting, I haven't actually seen that time when I should have changed the blade. I will say though that I have noticed a huge difference between the reverse tooth blades opposed to the none reverse ones. The wood doesn't have that "jumpy" feeling. 

Ray

 

On my Hawk... I can really tell when the blade is dull.. I feel like I have to force the wood through it.. many times not even a few minutes into a cutting... But on my 788 or Ex-21 the blade just chomps the wood away. but the way I can tell on these is.. the blade will get hard to control.. and will start wondering.. as to be quite dull though.. I've had some blades last through a couple of clock cuttings on the 788 / Ex saw.. but have never completed a clock with one blade on my Hawk.. But this blade usage varies on the density of the wood too.. I've cut a lot of cherry.. and have had some cherry that was very hard cutting... and some that cut real nice.. no two pieces of wood cut the same.. sometimes the same piece will have hard cutting sections in it.. 

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1 hour ago, meflick said:

 

Edited: Here is link to the one from Steve's site that I built (I just checked, I add one more spot on each side so mine holds 12 where his does 10. So you could build two of his to hold your 20 tubes you bought.) 

 

Thank! This is good info.  Good ideas.  

Once again, I'm having too much fun figuring /building 

stuff for my shop.

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2 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Not intending hijack this thread but on the subject of blades, a lot has been said about brand and type of blades. My question is, how do you really know when a blade is worn out and needs to be replaced. I have cut entire projects with the same blade and it was still doing ok but I"m sure I should have changed it for a new one. I watch for any burning but as for speed of cutting, I haven't actually seen that time when I should have changed the blade. I will say though that I have noticed a huge difference between the reverse tooth blades opposed to the none reverse ones. The wood doesn't have that "jumpy" feeling. 

Ray

 

Ray, I teach my students that when the blade no longer does what you want It to do, it's time to change it. Weather it lasts an hour or ten minutes. Sometimes I will install a new blade and immediately change it because it's not cutting like I want, and sometimes a blade will last for an hour. 

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I have cut multiple projects with the same blade on My Hawk with no problem. I cut red oak and walnut and mahogany mostly. Many times I change blades for the sake of changing. Not that they stopped cutting. I use a FD #5 silver reverse blade as my go to blade. I have many different blades because I use to test blades for Mike Moorloch but I also use Jeweler's blades too so that adds to the total easily. A blade is dull when it is not easy to cut with any more. The blade is the cheapest part of what we do so just buy many and use whenever you need to and do not look back. You will spend more on the electricity to run the saw than th blades. 

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I have at least 20 different blades.  I use different blades for different type of projects.  I use different blades for Intarsia, compound cuts, puzzles etc.  I also have different brands as I like to compare blades.

Since I typically cut thicker woods, it is easy to tell when they are needing to be changed. 

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Being new to all this I've only used a few different blades.

Currently, my goto blades are the Pegas 3 and5 UR - they work the best for me.

I do have Olson and FD sample packs and I've used a few of them, but since finding the Pegas I've not used the other brands

The pinned Olson blades are only used in my Wen so they get seldom usage now.

I just ordered another sample pack of Pegas blades so I'll see from those if any get used more

I think one problem for new scrolls is once we get "comfortable" with a blade we don't or are afraid to step out of that comfort zone.

As to how many is enough my thoughts are enough is relative to what you need - some may only need a few, while others who do more varied work will need more. I know as I progress and take on different projects that use different technique I should be trying different blades.

Edited by new2woodwrk
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Thanks! for all this info.  

Any problem w/taking a pinned blade and knocking the pin out.

When I got the Wen, I bought some pin blades.

I have already done this and does not seem to be a problem.

Just got my first spiral blades.  Will get into those today.

Got 6 patterns glued up yesterday.....ready to go.

Cold, frozen morning.   I'll be in the basement.  :cool:

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I think I have 26 different blades. So far I have only used FD Polar and #5 Pegas mg. The reason I have so many is I first bought some Olsen and Pegas mg blades at Woodcraft. It's because that is what they sold. I knew nothing about blades and still don't. Then on SSV the talk was about FD blades so I bought a dozen of everything. I had no idea what I needed. I suspect most will be bequeathed to whom ever get my saws upon my unfortunate demise. I use mostly polar blades because they seem to do everything I want them to. I don't like reverse blades. Too jumpy for this old man. I'll give them a try. I just have to get used to holding the wood down firmly.

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