hippygirl Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I have a Skil 3335 SS and have been looking for an easier/quicker way to release the top of the blade (it uses an M4-0.7x25mm pan head screw and hex key...PAIN IN THE BUTT!). I can find them all OVER the place for M6 and up and in standard sizes (not metric), but the M4s that I've been able to find so far have been too short. Any ideas? Lowes and HD have regular thumb screws in standard sizes in stock locally, but I'd have to re-tap the hole, but that blade clamp is an awfully small part to tap (not a lot of wiggle room, so to speak). Thanks. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotsdad Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I don't know if you have a bolt and nut supply store in your area but that might be a place to start. Also try an automotive parts store. Just a thought. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Many people make their own version by scrolling a handle or knob and drill the center out and epoxy the screw in. example: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2014/08/diy-replacement-knob-for-sore-hands.html justdraftn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I know this may sound silly but have you tried Amazon? They have never let me down no matter what I was looking for. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Do you have an ace hardware near you? they have a lot of types of screws, I found a thumb screw for one of my old saws to replace the existing screw. I took the screw in and said, I want one of these with a thumb screw end, the guys helping were super nice. SCROLLSAW703 and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I was going to suggest the same thing as JT. Make a know and mix some epoxy to join the pieces. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I bet you can make one, too. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) Well, I did manage to find this online at Grainger a few minutes ago...same size as what I have (M4-0.7x25mm)...looks like it'll work... As for the DIY wooden knob, love the idea, but I don't have any forstner bits, but I could use a spade bit (as you can see, I'm thinking this mess through as I type ). Edited April 16, 2018 by hippygirl Added info OCtoolguy and WayneMahler 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spirithorse Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Hi, hippygirl, My memory or metric sizing is terrible but, could you possibly buy a larger size bolt with the knob and just tap the bolt to the size desired instead of tapping the scroll saw? God Bless! Spirithorse hippygirl and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munzieb Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 I used to have the same problem with my old sear/craftsman. I hated it and bought a whole box of M6 hex bolts. Glad I sold it. Looked up you bolt size on the net and found some options. Check it out. https://www.bing.com/shop?q=+M4-0.7x25mm+thumb+screw&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=F519F3BDE0A643B6B3BBEA02A8FC056B OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Thanks for the help...gave me a few different directions and options. You guys are great! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 7 hours ago, hippygirl said: Well, I did manage to find this online at Grainger a few minutes ago...same size as what I have (M4-0.7x25mm)...looks like it'll work... As for the DIY wooden knob, love the idea, but I don't have any forstner bits, but I could use a spade bit (as you can see, I'm thinking this mess through as I type ). You do own a scrollsaw. No forstner bit needed. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCROLLSAW703 Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 have you tried ereplacementparts.com? Put in the model of your saw & you'll get a full schematic of it. You can order the parts for it from there. Might be easier then huntin' a screw that won't work, huh? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, SCROLLSAW703 said: have you tried ereplacementparts.com? Put in the model of your saw & you'll get a full schematic of it. You can order the parts for it from there. Might be easier then huntin' a screw that won't work, huh? Been there...no luck. I have the Skil 3335-01...it uses an M4-0.7 socket head screw to clamp the blade which means I have to use an allen wrench to release the top of the blade. What I'm trying to find is an alternative to that screw so that I can quickly and easily release the top of the blade (no allen wrench needed). The Skil 3335-07 (I assume it's a later version) has a tool-free clamp, but, IIRC, the threads are M6...won't fit my saw. I "did" cobble together a version of Steve Good's wooden knob...M4-0.7x35mm hex-head screw (not a socket head and I figured I'd need extra length to accommodate the wood, washers, and nyloc nut), 1/4" pine...it's VERY secure in the wood and does NOT slip, but it will NOT close the clamp enough to secure the blade. Both the screws are M4-0.7, but they are different materials (the one I bought today is zinc coated...the socket head is, I think, black oxide), so perhaps...somehow...magically, that's the problem. WHO KNOWS!!! Anyway, I'm going BACK to HD tomorrow and get the M4-0.7x40mm socket head (started to get it today instead of the hex head, but nooooo), a handful of the nyloc nuts, the epoxy resin (because now I'll have to inset the screw head) and have at it again using 3/4 pine. Anyway, here's a couple of pics of what I made today... Edited April 18, 2018 by hippygirl corrected ".07" to "0.7" OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 That is one fine looking knob you made. OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Looks good to me. Just be careful. With the knob you have more torque. Do not over tighten or you will strip the threads on the clamp. OCtoolguy, NC Scroller and SCROLLSAW703 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 3 hours ago, Rockytime said: That is one fine looking knob you made. 2 hours ago, Scrappile said: Looks good to me. Just be careful. With the knob you have more torque. Do not over tighten or you will strip the threads on the clamp. ...but, for some reason, it won't close the clamp enough to hold the blade. To add insult to injury, the SAME screw WITHOUT the knob assembly DOES close it. Went to HD today, picked up a few different screws of the same size (M4-0.7), extra nyloc nuts, fender washers, 2-part epoxy, and a 1/2" piece of poplar (I'm determined to get this to work!). I can tell you one thing for certain...if I can learn to make my cuts as cleanly/neatly as what I've seen here and enjoy doing it (fighting with a piece of equipment sucks ALL of the joy out of a project!), I won't have this problem with my next SS...I don't care if it takes me a YEAR to save up for it! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Well looky here...TWO options at McMaster-Carr. Saw a reference online to "cam levers" and "cam handles", did a search and voila! I "think" the first one is the safer bet (it is, after all, a screw), but I'm going to call them tomorrow, tell them what I'll be using it for, and see what they can tell me about the clamping "force" of the 2nd one shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Either one should be able to work. Good Luck! hippygirl and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Ended up ordering a 2-pack from Amazon (like the one in the first pic) for half the price as shown above, tossed in the clear test tubes for blade storage, and a $5 bowl scraper to get the order at/above $25 for free shipping. I also had a $10 credit so the entire order cost $17. I did go to HD again for extra parts, but ended up with the same result (screw wouldn't close the clamp with the wood knob attached), so I'll return the unopened items tomorrow. Now I can quit "fretting" over it! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 A scroll saw will give lots of pleasure once you get the bugs out!You're a determined woman! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2018 UPDATE - new blade clamp "handle" for Skill 3335...IT WORKS!!! It wouldn't pull the clamp together at first (and, yes, I almost went into "hurling obscenities into the cosmos while flinging the offending item wildly across the room" mode), but once I ran the threads over some beeswax it worked like a charm and is holding tight! Now I can start drilling some holes! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted April 25, 2018 Report Share Posted April 25, 2018 I am so happy for you!!!! OCtoolguy and hippygirl 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted April 25, 2018 Report Share Posted April 25, 2018 Looks like that will work out well for you. hippygirl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippygirl Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Well, so much for that...BOTH of the handles (the handle part, NOT the screw that goes through the blade clamp) have stripped or something! When the first one failed yesterday, I was sawing away, practicing curves, and the blade suddenly came loose (scared the bejeezus outta me, too!). I thought I might not have had enough of the blade in the top clamp, so when I went to unscrew the thing to open the clamp, it wouldn't "catch". Finally got it out, took the screw and spring out of the end of the handle so I could get a look...sure enough, several of the teeth seemed to be stripped. OK, so this is why I got TWO of them, so I popped the other one on and it worked fine for the rest of my session...loosened the tension at the top-rear of the arm, and called it a day. This afternoon, I decided to try out my new FD Jeweler's blade, removed the old blade, put in the jeweler's blade, started to close the clamp and whammo...it stripped (que "hurling obscenities into the cosmos" thing) So I'm right back where I started. I don't know if the blade clamp that came on my machine is defective or something, but even with the original hex head screws, it's pretty hard to close the clamp...I guess that's what stripped them. I'm going to order a replacement blade holder (only costs $4.18+$5 shipping from M&M Tools) with the hope it might close more easily, but I'm finished with this handle business...time to start saving for another machine. In the meantime, practice, practice, practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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