First Puzzle project... Blade selection and questions

[new2woodwrk]

I have a pattern I'd like to cut this week and it's a puzzle - animal puzzle actually, not photo puzzle.

According to the instructions, it says to use a #5,7, or 9 blade - is this correct?

It seems to me those blades have a fairly wide kerf, no?

Ill be using Pine for this cut as that is what I have on hand at the moment.

Also, are there any gotcha's I should be aware of while cutting?

Do I cut the outer puzzle out first then cut the pieces? I think Iggy does it this way and I think I have to do it this way as there are no empty spaces to drill holes in to do fretwork.

Should I keep a template of the puzzle as I cut out the pieces or just assemble as I cut?

Thoughts?

As always, thanks in advance

Edited April 17, 2018 by new2woodwrk

[kmmcrafts]

I'd go no larger than a #5 blade.. I've cut a few puzzles now and some of the patterns I have say to use a #5 so that is what I used on my first puzzle.. A #5 does make the pieces fit a little on the loose side.. so I've been using a #3 ever since that first one I cut.. 

As for cutting around the outside first.. I think that is just more of a matter of preference.. but in most cases.. seems to be the most logical..  That said.. I've cut the pieces out of the board and also cut out the shape first.. I prefer to cut out the shape first in most cases..

As for the cut pieces... I typically will put the puzzle together as I cut it out.. but just came in from cutting a puzzle and this time I just set the pieces aside.. then I had another 2 hours trying to figure out how it goes together  well... maybe it was only 2 minutes.. but being spring / winter / sprinter  and cold after cutting I was ready to come in.. not play with a puzzle.. 

[new2woodwrk]

44 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I'd go no larger than a #5 blade.. I've cut a few puzzles now and some of the patterns I have say to use a #5 so that is what I used on my first puzzle.. A #5 does make the pieces fit a little on the loose side.. so I've been using a #3 ever since that first one I cut.. 

...

So should I use a #3 then? That's what I use on everything and am very comfortable with it.

Also, should I use a skip tooth, reverse or MG?

Thanks in advance

Edited April 18, 2018 by new2woodwrk

[kmmcrafts]

1 minute ago, new2woodwrk said:

So should I use a #3 then? That's what I use on everything and am very comfortable with it.

Also, should I use a skip tooth, reverse or MG?

Thanks in advance

Yeah, #3 is what I use for for the animal puzzles like Iggy makes.. I use the Pegas MG for mine.. I believe Iggy mentioned he had switch from the Olsen Mach Speed #3 he was using to the Pegas #3 as well.. I sometimes will cut the outline of the puzzle with a #5... then cut the pieces with a #3.. 

[Hawk]

FWIW,  what I use is a Flying Dutchman #2/0 Polar ( could be 0/2, I don't remember exactly), always get a good fit !!!

Chris

Edited April 18, 2018 by Hawk

[kmmcrafts]

8 minutes ago, Hawk said:

FWIW,  what I use is a Flying Dutchman #2/0 Polar ( could be 0/2, I don't remember exactly), always get a good fit !!!

Chris

For the puzzles cut from 3/4 inch thick stock? Seems like an awful small blade for 3/4" wood.. if you get any bow in the blade from pushing and turning that 3/4 inch stock the puzzle wouldn't be square and the pieces wouldn't slide together from both sides very well if at all..

[WayneMahler]

I would experiment with blades. The smallest blade that works is what I would use. Puzzles seem to be all about the fit of the pieces. Just my thoughts. 

[Iguanadon]

Kevin seems to have chimed in with the same info I recommend... I use Pegas MG #3 now when cutting from 3/4" poplar.  I do use #5 for cutting the outline, for no real or particular reason other than there aren't many, if any tight turns to deal with.

As I cut out each letter/puzzle piece I lay it off to the side in the order in which they go and peel off the shelf liner/pattern after the entire puzzle is done and reassemble as I go.

You mention you're cutting out of pine... the Pegas MG will be very aggressive with soft pine, so be ready.

Edited April 18, 2018 by Iguanadon

[Sycamore67]

I agree with using a #3 or #5 blade.  I use FD Polar blades.  

I really think that you need to try some different blades and find out how they work.  There is nothing better than getting personal experience and see what happens with various blades. 

[rdatelle]

#3 is my go to blade.

[meflick]

Like Iggy and Kevin, I tend to use a #5 blade to cut the outside shape.  I cut the outside shape out first.  (Well, if there are interior cuts,  I drill those holes first, then cut the outside shape first and then the interior cuts with the #5 blade.) I then usually use a #3 blade to cut the letters out/apart.  I have also learned if there is an inside cut that will be "accessed" when cutting letters apart, I don't mess with drilling holes there and cutting them out ahead of time.  I do that cut as I cut the letters apart.  This means only "fully enclosed" inside cuts like inside an "O" or a "P" or a "D" do I drill holes for and cut.  That space in the middle between letters for example - I cut that out when I am cutting the letters.  Saves drilling the holes and moving in and out on them.  As far as putting them back together or waiting - I tend to either slide them back together as I cut them out - or set them together in order and then put together then I pull the pattern off each piece one at a time.

[ike]

When I cut animal puzzles mostly Dogs I use a #5 on the ID cuts, #7 on the OD and for the letters I use a #3. But if I was just going to cut one I would use a #5 on ICD &OD and still use a #3 on the letters.

IKE

[fredfret]

Try each blade on scrap wood using a pattern similar to the one you plan to make the project from. decide what cut best fits your taste/idea of the correct fit and then use that blade. I cut the whole puzzle with #3 blades for kids puzzles I use a #5 for a looser fit. Using a #1 or 2/0 for "standup) puzzles is way too small for me. Picture puzzles is 2/0 or even smaller but the wood is only 1/4" thick not 3/4 like for standup puzzles.

Fredfret

Wichita, Ks

[Rockytime]

I am no genius, but here is what I do. I took JT's suggestion and started using a #5 Penguin Silver reverse blade. It cut so cleanly I was impressed. Smoother than a baby's bottom. This is what I cut from 3/4" Poplar.

[new2woodwrk]

1 hour ago, Rockytime said:

I am no genius, but here is what I do. I took JT's suggestion and started using a #5 Penguin Silver reverse blade. It cut so cleanly I was impressed. Smoother than a baby's bottom. This is what I cut from 3/4" Poplar.

That's a great looking piece - and your choice of wood was incredible! Thanks for sharing it Les