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Puzzle Painting Problem - the 3 P's LOL


new2woodwrk

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4 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Thanks Iggy, I sort of knew that but couldn't actually bring myself to think that you all are using food coloring dye. Now that you say it comes in larger quantities it does make sense. I just never thought that much about it until it came up here. Do you use it straight out of the bottle or thin it or ???? I guess by mixing it with other colors you can create the color you need? Thanks for your input. I'm really curious. I would have thought that acrylic paints would have been the answer. How about water colors?

Ray

 

Yes, I water it down.  A lot of water and "some" food coloring.  It takes some experimenting to get it the way you want.  Be sure to use distilled water since you'll likely have a batch of it sitting around, you don't want any mold/mildew growth.

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8 minutes ago, Iguanadon said:

Yes, I water it down.  A lot of water and "some" food coloring.  It takes some experimenting to get it the way you want.  Be sure to use distilled water since you'll likely have a batch of it sitting around, you don't want any mold/mildew growth.

Thanks, I never would have thought of that. Really do appreciate your help.

Ray

 

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1 hour ago, NC Scroller said:

You can also use a fabric dye like Rit brand.

I've used RIT fabric dye a few times.  It works pretty well and is available in more colors, so you don't have to necessarily mess around mixing to get the color you want.  I use the pre-mixed stuff, straight out of the bottle.  Put some in a pan.  Place the piece in the dye and let it soak in.  May have to work it into corners with a brush, but it covers fairly well.  It is water based, so you may get some raising of the grain.

Edited by Bill WIlson
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Do any of you seal the colored pieces? I ask because... I've seen kids running around with blue mouths before :lol: .... On a more serious note.. I just wondered if perhaps the wood would bleed out the color if it was to accidentally get wet / damp.. would be a bad day for someone if they spilled a water or something and the puzzle turns someones nice white or light colored carpet blue :lol:.. I've been considering doing some of the bases similar to like what Iggy showed with the blue puzzle base.. 

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8 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Do any of you seal the colored pieces? I ask because... I've seen kids running around with blue mouths before :lol: .... On a more serious note.. I just wondered if perhaps the wood would bleed out the color if it was to accidentally get wet / damp.. would be a bad day for someone if they spilled a water or something and the puzzle turns someones nice white or light colored carpet blue :lol:.. I've been considering doing some of the bases similar to like what Iggy showed with the blue puzzle base.. 

I currently don't seal them but have thought about spraying them with a coat of something.  My puzzles "usually" end up on bookcase shelves versus being played with.

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1 hour ago, Iguanadon said:

I currently don't seal them but have thought about spraying them with a coat of something.  My puzzles "usually" end up on bookcase shelves versus being played with.

Yeah I sort of figured that.. Always kind of wondered why do we even do all the extra work and wear on our saws to even make it a puzzle.. LOL.. 

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On 4/24/2018 at 8:12 AM, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah I sort of figured that.. Always kind of wondered why do we even do all the extra work and wear on our saws to even make it a puzzle.. LOL.. 

For the "ooh's and aaah's" of course!  OH MY GOSH! IT'S A PUZZLE?!?!?!  HOW DO YOU DO THAT?!?!  WHAT LASER DO YOU USE?!?!?... 

*yawn*... it's all done by hand, be amazed!

LOL

I am doing some as non-puzzle to test in a couple of retail stores... maybe... I hate doing inside cuts and they're a real pain in the neck to do.  ;-)

Edited by Iguanadon
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I seal everything so far

As for the puzzles, I have some Cutting board oil (mineral oil of sorts) I was going to try

Also I read about this article for food safe finishes:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes

I'm going to try the oil + beeswax since I have a block of beeswax just laying around when the wife used to make candles

Edited by new2woodwrk
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2 minutes ago, new2woodwrk said:

I seal everything so far

As for the puzzles, I have some Cutting board oil (mineral oil of sorts) I was going to try

Also I read about this article for food safe finishes:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes

I'm going to try the oil + beeswax since I have a block of beeswax just laying around when the wife used to make candles

I use "food grade mineral oil" but be aware that it never 100% completely "dries".  You can't really notice it after a couple of days but if you were set it on a newspaper or paper towel you'd see some bleeding.

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Ok, since I'm not a puzzle maker, yet. I still get plenty of "ohhh's & ahhh's" & "is that laser cut"? On & on, & all I use on most of my projects, unless by customer request, is hit the project with 2, maybe 3 coats of lacquer with my air sprayer. Allow it to dry over nite, lightly sand it with 220, & hit it 2 coats of Watco clear coat by air sprayer. The lacquer not only seals the wood, but, imo, helps pull out the grain look. The clear coat just puts on the shine & finishin' touches.

But I'm yet to figure out, if you're goin' to color your puzzles, & you're worried about fade, how could ya not seal the project? Clear coat is perfecly safe for projects such as your puzzles once it's dried. I use it on my turnings, like plates, platters & such. Others I use a butcher block oil sealer & dip it. Let it hang til it dries. So you can see my confusion. And if it's "just going to end up on a bookcase," it looks to me like you're still goin' have some bleedin' or fadin' into whatever it's settin' on. Just curios

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