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Reverse Blades


Rockytime

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Am I the only person that does not care for reverse blades? I understand the reason for them. I'm cutting a series of letters from 1/2" oak. Occasionally the piece will buck to high heaven and scare the pee doodlers out of me. I know it happens because I've put the blade in a bind. Still don't like it. Happens when I make too aggressive a turn. I find they work OK for me on softer and thinner woods.

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I like reverse blades.....even with the kickback! They seem to really cut clean and the underside of the wood is very smooth. I used to have to sand the back quite a bit to get rid of the fuzzies!

I just make sure that when I start up again to cut i hold the piece firmly to the table. I have been using primarily 1/4 inch Baltic Birch.

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1 hour ago, spirithorse said:

Hi, Les,

A lot of people have mentioned that skip tooth blades are much better for 1/2" material because it leaves more room
to clear the kerf of the sawdust.
If you are using a lot of reverse blades, I suggest you just slow down your feed rate into the blade.
God Bless! Spirithorse

Thanks for the suggestions.

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I bought some Pegas blades to try as there has been so much hype on them. I found that I did not care for them because they are too aggressive for my liking. However, It I was cutting3/4 inch hardwood, they will be the blade I will use. the teeth are bigger on them then other brands, hence the aggressive character. But as far a reversible blades go, I doubt I will ever buy blades that are not reversible for most of the things I cut.

Dick

heppnerguy 

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Use them all the time. I mentioned this many times here. I use Penguin silver reverse #5 FD blades in just about all my cuttings. I cut mostly red oak maple, walnut and never ever ever ever had a problem with pulling up of wood. I allow the saw to do the cutting and do not push. never in a hurry here. 

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I've had reverse tooth blades grab for me from time to time.  Mostly, I figure it's because I wasn't holding the piece securely or trying to take a turn to quickly, especially in thicker material.  When I'm cutting very sharp inside corners, I like to follow the line into the corner, stop, back out a little, then cut across the waste area to the intersecting line.  Then I'll cut into the corner point from the intersecting line, turn around in the newly made opening and proceed to cut along the next line.  This allows me to cut a sharp point, without trying to spin so hard in the corner, where grabbing can be a problem.

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2 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

I've had reverse tooth blades grab for me from time to time.  Mostly, I figure it's because I wasn't holding the piece securely or trying to take a turn to quickly, especially in thicker material.  When I'm cutting very sharp inside corners, I like to follow the line into the corner, stop, back out a little, then cut across the waste area to the intersecting line.  Then I'll cut into the corner point from the intersecting line, turn around in the newly made opening and proceed to cut along the next line.  This allows me to cut a sharp point, without trying to spin so hard in the corner, where grabbing can be a problem.

Hi Bill, I do exactly what you do. Sometimes. Every so often I think I can make this corner, no problem and I bind the blade. I was cutting 1/2" oak with a #7 FD Ultra reverse. Onsofter or thinner woods I do not have a problem.

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23 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

I've had reverse tooth blades grab for me from time to time.  Mostly, I figure it's because I wasn't holding the piece securely or trying to take a turn to quickly, especially in thicker material.  When I'm cutting very sharp inside corners, I like to follow the line into the corner, stop, back out a little, then cut across the waste area to the intersecting line.  Then I'll cut into the corner point from the intersecting line, turn around in the newly made opening and proceed to cut along the next line.  This allows me to cut a sharp point, without trying to spin so hard in the corner, where grabbing can be a problem.

That's exactly what I do 9in tight corners.

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Most (99%) of the time I use a reverse tooth blade.. About the only time I do not use then is in very delicate portrait or very thin wood type works.. I've also found that this will happen to me if i am pushing to much ( trying to go too fast ).. in many cases if this happens to me.. I'll speed up the saw to a faster blades speed and typically makes it easier to saw in these cases...   

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