Not sure how to title this one.

[OCtoolguy]

I have embarked upon my project basket that I showed you all a couple of weeks back. It is made up of 7 layers of poplar and a top and bottom of oak. All are 1/4" thickness. I sanded all pieces first and then applied the shelf paper that everybody is using now. Then, I applied 3M 77 to the pattern paper and then the paper to the shelf liner. All good to go. I started cutting with a Pegas #3 MGR blade. I did one piece of poplar with that. Then for the second piece of poplar, I tried a FD #3UR. Both seem to cut just fine. My problem is, the kerf is very fine and the blades are not clearing the sawdust/paper residue. The little blower nozzle and the vacuum inlet aren't clearing the kerf. It's almost like I'm cutting wet wood but I don't feel that it is even damp. So, my question is, is this normal or should I go to a larger blade like a #5. Is the reverse cut doing it? I'm new enough at this that I don't know just what to do. I'm getting a very nice cute with #3 and there will be little to no sanding required. I'd sure appreciate any advice from you more experienced folks.

Nut Basket.pdf

Edited May 18, 2018 by octoolguy

[OCtoolguy]

Ok, update. I tried using a non- reverse blade and that has helped a lot. I also stepped up a size to a 5 XL from FD. Seems to be better.

R

 

[WayneMahler]

Ray I cut a lot of my work with a #3 UR or a #1 UR and don't have a problem. I'm curious if you had the blade installed upside down ? I'm not familiar with the modified geometry blades but the UR's have a reversed tooth every third tooth. Glad to hear you got you problem sort of worked out. 

[Sycamore67]

Too much adhesive gumming things up.  You have adhesive on the shelf paper and spraying adhesive.  With small teeth you are clearing the teeth on each stroke.

[Rockytime]

Greater tooth count or a skip blade to get rid of the sawdust.

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, Sycamore67 said:

Too much adhesive gumming things up.  You have adhesive on the shelf paper and spraying adhesive.  With small teeth you are clearing the teeth on each stroke.

Thanks. I think you hit the nail on the head. I'll have to figure out a better way. Not sure yet what that will be but maybe I'll try it the next time without the shelf liner. I thought I was doing it the way most others do it. 

 

[dgman]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

Thanks. I think you hit the nail on the head. I'll have to figure out a better way. Not sure yet what that will be but maybe I'll try it the next time without the shelf liner. I thought I was doing it the way most others do it. 

 

I think if you take a pole, most don’t do it that way. I glue the pattern to the bare naked wood, then clear packing tape on top of that. I don’t have problems with the blade gumming up no matter what blade I use.

[spirithorse]

I agree with Rockytime Les that a skip tooth blade is all that is needed.

God Bless! Spirithorse

[OCtoolguy]

3 hours ago, dgman said:

I think if you take a pole, most don’t do it that way. I glue the pattern to the bare naked wood, then clear packing tape on top of that. I don’t have problems with the blade gumming up no matter what blade I use.

Thanks. I thought a lot of people had switched over to the shelf liner instead of the more expensive blue tape. Actually, this is the first time I've had this problem and I thought maybe it was because of the poplar. I have been using BB for most everything I've done up until now. But, I see your point and I will give it a try. Thanks again.

 

[Phantom Scroller]

I've cut that one with a ultra reverse No 5 blade wish I'd cut two as I sold it.Roly

Edited May 19, 2018 by Phantom Scroller

[Scrolling Steve]

11 hours ago, WayneMahler said:

Ray I cut a lot of my work with a #3 UR or a #1 UR and don't have a problem. I'm curious if you had the blade installed upside down ? I'm not familiar with the modified geometry blades but the UR's have a reversed tooth every third tooth. Glad to hear you got you problem sort of worked out. 

I'm with wayne, what you described is what i experienced when i put the blade in upside down !......I do not do it often , but thats what it sounds like to me.

[OCtoolguy]

Thanks to all who have replied. The blade was not in upside down for sure. I tried a couple of different blades. I had the best luck with a non reverse blade. I think what the problem is is the adhesive from the layer of shelf liner and spray adhesive being too much for the tiny blades to clear. Once I got up to a #5 XL blade, the problem worked itself out almost completely. I was also trying to run the saw too slow as I'm still learning how to control the cutting. I'm getting better though. 

Thanks again, sorry to be a bother.

Ray

 

[WayneMahler]

On 5/19/2018 at 3:13 PM, octoolguy said:

Thanks to all who have replied. The blade was not in upside down for sure. I tried a couple of different blades. I had the best luck with a non reverse blade. I think what the problem is is the adhesive from the layer of shelf liner and spray adhesive being too much for the tiny blades to clear. Once I got up to a #5 XL blade, the problem worked itself out almost completely. I was also trying to run the saw too slow as I'm still learning how to control the cutting. I'm getting better though. 

Thanks again, sorry to be a bother.

Ray

 

As you can read here many people will have different opinions on things. There are lots of good folks here and from all different skill levels. For you to say your a bother? Everyone here started at the beginning and learned from block one. There will be no exceptions and this applies to most things in life. No need to feel bad about asking questions or for help. Blade speed will effect many things. I'm just happy your learning and growing. And don't forget to have fun a long the way  

[spirithorse]

Hi, Ray,

You definitely are not a bother. Some of us may learn from your questions and others may be able to offer helpful suggestions.

Pretty much a win win situation. Glad you got your problem worked out.

God Bless! Spirithorse

[SCROLLSAW703]

that's the story with smaller blades, Mr. Ray. Especially if they've got several teeth/inch. You could've sped up your blade speed some to increase more air blowin' to your kerf line. But, as much paper & adhesive as you had on the project for that small of a blade to handle, plus sawdust too, to clean out the kerf, it would've been tough to get your blade speed up if you're not comfortable with it at higher speeds.

You made the right choice, imo, to jump to a larger blade, & a skip tooth blade. 

I use blue painters tape on the wood, & spray adhesive to the back of the pattern, & stick it on the tape. Be Careful how much adhesive ya spray on. It doesn't take much, just a light covering to the back of the pattern. The more adhesive you spray on, the longer it'll take it to cure out, & that much more adhesive your blade has to cut thru. In turn, creatin' a sticky mess that will collect sawdust in the kerf, makin' more work for the blade. I use a piece of candle for blade lube, if need be. I've never seen how the packin' tape done anything but make a sticky mess, & create a headache to deal with. 

As far ya sayin' ya bein' a bother, Mr. Ray, that's not right, my friend. I promise you, we all started at the beginnin', once or twice. It's been said many times here, & will continue to be said that experience has brought us all to the places in our hobby we're at now. We keep learnin' from you new fellas as much as ya learn from our experience. That's what this site is all about, my friend. To meet new friends, learn from one another, enjoy the conversations & ideas, & most of all, help one another to learn more about our hobby.;) keep makin' sawdust, my friend! God Bless!

Edited May 22, 2018 by SCROLLSAW703

[OCtoolguy]

Thanks to all of you for your kind comments and for all the help and advice. This is truly a unique place. I feel like I'm at the Boys & Girls Club or the local Senior Center. Lot's of fun, comeraderie and learning going on.

R