Spiral blade question.

[NLAlston]

I have been lending myself to as much time as I could possibly give my scroll saw, for the purpose of getting much better on it.  This Dewalt DW788 has quickly moved into the top spot of my woodworking tools.  I've done some things in 3/4" stock (pine and poplar), as well as a fair bit of 1/4" plywood sub flooring, that we had left over from a flooring project.  Thus far, I have only used two types of blades.  One, has been the #5 Skip Tooth blade.  And the other has been a #5 Spiral Blade.  I'd tried my hand with some pattern cutouts, in the 1/4" plywood - which didn't fare too bad with the Skip Tooth blade.  However, I was quite dissatisfied with the cut of the Spiral Blade.  It is to my understanding (from what I've gained on the internet) that Spiral Blades will never equal the clean cutting of other blade types,  owing to their teeth design.  But I am also finding that many scrollers LOVE using them.  

I really like the fact that cuts - with the Spiral Blades - can be made without so much of the stock movement, which is required with the usage of other blades.  I have another project that I wish to do, which will have a good number of internal cuts to be made, and I would hope to be able to do so without having to call upon my mini files, and folded sandpaper by which to even out/clean the cut lines.  I also wonder if the TYPE of plywood I had used was the biggest factor attributing to what resulted.  

Would Baltic Birch plywood make much of a difference in things?  

Advanced thanks to all.

 

God Bless,

Nathan

Edited July 9, 2018 by NLAlston

[fredfret]

Different plywood cuts vary in results. Baltic birch is a good choice for scrolls aw projects . Spiral blades will make more fuzziness than straight blades.  A#5 spiral is a huge blade for 1/4 ply. I use #2/0 or 1 for that thickness. I use a backer for almost every project I use a spiral on. 1/8 ply works great . If the backer has to many fuzzy it's designer firewood. This helps but will not completely eliminate the fuzz but will reduce it on the top copy.

Fredfret

[NC Scroller]

I agree with Fred.  A number 5 spiral is way to big for thin stock.  Go with a 2/0 or a 1.  I never cut one piece of 1/8" or 1 /4" plywood or solid.  A single piece is more prone to break out.

[Bill WIlson]

Agree with the comments already given.  Use a smaller spiral blade and better grade plywood and you will get better results.  However, it is true that spirals will not cut as cleanly and smoothly as straight blades.  They work well on thinner plywood, because the roughness of the cut edges isn't as noticeable as it would be on thicker wood.  I prefer spirals for portrait style cutting, but that's about it.  Portrait patterns lend themselves well to using spirals, but straight blades work better for traditional fretwork type projects, IMHO.  Cutting straight lines and precise, sharp inside corners is much more difficult with spirals. 

[crupiea]

I pretty much only cur 1/8" Baltic birch. i cant stand spiral blades. They are just not my thing,. Some people love them so not judging, just sayin i dont care for them.

[NLAlston]

To the respondees, I thank you so much for your input.

Yes, I have found that Spiral blades do not give that 'finessed' cut of flat blades, but (and again) they do reduce the swiveling of some wood pieces that I'd be cutting into.  As suggested, I am going to go out and invest in some smaller numbered blades - and invest in a bunch (since 'smaller' is more than likely to translate into easier breakage).  Thanks.

[RangerJay]

There is not a heck of a lot I can add to the advice and opinions already given - but I might add that you would find it helpful to take a sacrificial chunk of plywood - thickness your choice - and simply cut the same pattern with different blades - then make your assessment.  I am one of those that is a big fan of spiral blades - but recognize that flat blades have an important place that cannot be duplicated by a spiral blade ....

Jay

[SCROLLSAW703]

Hello Nathan! Welcome to the forum. It's good to see another sawyer amongst us. I'd agree with what has already been said, except the fact that imo, I'd shy away from plywood, unless it's baltic birch ply. Main reason being all the glue is real hard on blades of any size or type. My next suggestion with spiral blades is use your variable speed on the saw. Some think that a spiral needs to cut as fast as the saw will run. Not true. In theory, speed creates heat. Heat takes the temper out of your blade, therefore shortening the life of the blade, and not allowing the blade to do its job. I run spirals in several different projects. I don't use anything but hardwood in my projects. The sizes I use range in sizes from #0/2 up to a #5. I don't use them often, but when I do, I run my saw around 1/2 or just a little over on the variable speed, and I set the tension fairly tight. I get better life out the blade, and it doesn't wander as bad. I also keep a large assortment of flat blades on inventory. From #0/2 on up. And different types. I agree with what Jay said about gettin' yourself a piece of wood and several sizes of flat blades and start cuttin' until you find the ones you prefer. The #5 blade is a monster blade. I'd get online & get a sample pack or two and try the different blades in those. For your inside cuts, you're going to want a #2 or #3 blade, depending on the thickness of your material. Personally, were it me, if you're going to use baltic birch, I'd shy away from the skip tooth blades because they will be more apt to give you tear out issues on the back of your project. I would go with a #2 or there abouts polar blade, and watch your speed, and listen to the blade. It'll tell ya when it needs tension or replaced. Maybe you can get JT to chime in and see what his thoughts are. My apologies for the length. Best of luck to ya, & Happy Trails.