Excalibur blade tension question

[OCtoolguy]

I have read the manual that came with my EX 21 and it lightly mentions blade tension. It says the arm is supposed to be level with the table. I'd love to hear how you folks with the EX's tension your blades. So far, I position the blade in the top holder, then I lock it into the bottom clamp and then flip the lever back to apply the tension. But, it just doesn't seem like the blade is tight enough. I don't get the high pitched twang and there seems to be a lot of side to side movement. Is it ok to apply more tension with the arm adjuster even if it is going to put the arm out of perfect level? What do you folks do?'

[kmmcrafts]

I have had some issues with getting the correct tension too.. I found that sometimes the upper arm doesn't always come down all the way.. I also found that the lever doesn't always lower the upper clamp all the way to the same position every single time.. It takes a learning curve as does any "New To You" saw would.. I have to say.. Hawk made a tension / clamping  design about as fool proof as one could get for these saws.. You get the same results every single time on a Hawk... Maybe Hegners too? But the Dewalts and other saws seem to have missed something when designing this portion of the scroll saw in my opinion... Not that its difficult to get proper tension.. especially once you " Learn " the particular saw..   

Anyway.. I found that wiggling the cam lever and looking to be sure its at it's lowest position has somewhat resolved my issues with this.. I bottom feed though... so if you are a top feeder then.. I'm not sure.. just make sure the upper clamp is all the way down to the same position every time.. 

[hotshot]

Easy solution, sort of:  If you need a little more tension than what the level provides, apply a little down pressure on the top arm as you tighten in the blade.  Been doing it so long, I do it unconsciously now.

Edited July 15, 2018 by hotshot

[hotshot]

A little note on Excalibur Tensioning. . . . the longer arm on the 21 has more flex (leverage) than the 16", so the 16" has apples more tension by default.  On the 16, I actually have to give the Jeweler blades a little slack or they will break every time I flip the tension lever.  If I don't press down on the arm, the default tension on the 21 is perfect for Jewelers blades.

------Randy

[Roberta Moreton]

I never figured it out. I used the knob in the back. Wrong, I know, gave up caring. I bought the Pegas upgrade, all problems are solved. Including blade slippage

[Bill WIlson]

I install blades in a 3 step process.  First I put the blade in the top holder and lightly tighten the clamp.   I do this mainly because it's easier to see and I can make sure I have the blade at the proper position.  Too high and it will bend with you flip the tension lever.  Too low and it may slip out when tension is applied. 

Then I lower the top arm and install the blade in the bottom clamp.  I do this entirely by feel and don't have to stand on my head to see that it's in correctly.  By first confirming the top of the blade is correct, the bottom is correct by default.

Then I loosen the top clamp and push down on the upper arm slightly, as Hotshot suggested, while tightening the thumbscrew.  This is that added little bit that gets the blade nice & tight.  I got in the habit of doing this with my Dewalt.  It was almost essential with that saw.  I don't think it's quite as necessary on the EX, but I still do it out of habit.

Now, if after all that, you are still having trouble getting adequate tension, perhaps the nylon tension lever is worn.  They sent me an extra one when I bought my EX a couple years ago, so it's a known wear item.

Also, there is a nylon setscrew in the clamp bracket, directly underneath the front of the clamping lever.  I'd have to check my manual to be sure, but you may affect the travel of the sliding bracket, by how far that set screw protrudes out of the bottom of the clamp bracket.  I've never messed with mine, but it looks like it may play a part in how far the block moves and thus, perhaps that last little bit of tension you are seeking.

[OCtoolguy]

Thanks to all for your help. I think what you have all suggested will solve the problem. I'm just not familiar with the saw yet and since the mechanism is very similar to the Dewalt, and I have got it figured out, I was a bit confused as to why I wasn't getting the blade tension that I thought I should. I'm also trying to become a top feeder but that may change. I got pretty good at bottom feeding on the Dewalt and it may be that I will revert to my old ways. Thanks again everybody.

 

[trackman]

As  Bill stated there is a set screw at the top of the blade clamp under the set lever. With the lever end pointing away from you turn the screw just until it contacts the clamp. THEN TURN 1/4”I more. This puts a preload on the tension lever. You will get the same tension every time you engage the lever. I measured the back of the top arm and turned the knob until the front was the same an level. Never touched the knob again after 8 years of using. If still having problems call Ray at Sayco. No better person to talk to about EXs. 

Edited July 17, 2018 by trackman