Scroll saw for thick wood?

[Tyler]

I generally glue 2 poplar 1x8s  together, and cut using what is then 1.5 inch wood.  My scroll saw was only about 100 bucks, and I'm waiting on it to give out.  Any recommendations for saws or what I should look for in a saw for wood that thick?

[fredfret]

RBI Hawks can cut up to 2 inch but are 1200+ new used almost any price age, condition dictates.

fredfret

[Rockytime]

Yes Hawks can cut up to two inches. However, and that's just me, I would seriously look at the  PS Wood scroll saws I have not seem a more robust saw. A brand new out of the box  21inch saw, steel stand and quick change blades with free shipping is $799. I have no idea why it is not more popular but my friend has one. It is built more like an industrial machine and yet can produce the very finest work.  If I were to replace my Hawk that would be my next purchase. JMHO

[Scrappile]

I think, DeWalt, Hegner, Hawk, Seyco, Excalibur, King and there are more that will handle it.

[Tyler]

Thanks, guys!

[orangeman]

Cut what?

I have never been able to cut puzzles from 1.5" hardwoods on a DeWalt, Hegner, or hawk!

If someone can do it I wanna know what blades they use!

Seriously!

bb

[Sycamore67]

I cut 1.5" on my Hegner.  Typically, do compound cut Christmas Ornaments. I have cut them from oak, ash and cherry.

I have used FD Polar #5.  I really like the PS Woods Super Sharp blades but are more expensive.

[Roberta Moreton]

If the Saw has the ability, the ‘Trick’ is the blade. I use a #5 and go slow. High speed on the Saw, slow cutting 

[SCROLLSAW703]

I disagree with the high speed. But I'd concur with the #5 skip tooth blade, or your preference. I would try a few sizes of different brands to see what works best for you. I don't use anything but hardwood. As a Hawk owner, I cut 2" thick hardwood pretty regular. Depending on the saw, I wouldn't run over 3/4 speed at best. All you'll get done is burn up blades. Unless of course, your preference is changin blades to scrollin. 

[Roberta Moreton]

Around 3/4 is still fairly high. Sorry for not being clear.

[kmmcrafts]

First let me say - Welcome to the forum  

Not to get into a what saw is best debate.. I've done enough of that in this forum  

All the saws the others mentioned above should be able to handle the chore. blade choice is going to be the key to achieving the task more so than what saw to use.. I'm not a thick wood cutter so I don't really know what blade would be best.. I'm guessing what the others said that have been there done that.. ScrollSaw703 I think has given some good advice about the blades.. 

Not sure what you might be cutting ( maybe I missed it ) but if you could get by with a small bandsaw.. that is where I would be looking if you're just cutting outside cuts etc.. Scroll sawing that thick would is real slow going I would think.. at least for someone like me that typically cuts 3/4" or less... mostly less..   

[Jim Finn]

A friend of mine cuts thick wood to make toys and had a DeWalt.  It cut  the wood fine but he kept killing the  motors doing this. (five of them in five years)

 

       I have Hegner saws I use to cut toys, myself.  Hegner motors are induction motors and not brushed so they are more robust,.  Brushed motors are better for stop and starting a lot as in doing fretwork.  I like #7 0r #9 precision cut Olsen blades for this.  Seem to last longer than polar #5 does.

Edited July 31, 2018 by Jim Finn

[Tyler]

What I enjoy cutting is Christmas stuff like trees and Santa Claus's.  I like for them to be able to stand up which is why i want the 1.5 inch thickness.   I cut them into puzzles from patterns that I find on the internet.  The blade I'm using right now is a spiral cut blade.  I can't make the turns using a flat blade.  Someone with more experience might be able to.  I'll post a couple of pics if I can.

[ike]

I use Olsons match blades and I would us a #5or #7 blade on my Dewalt.

[Tyler]

Here's what I'm working on right now.

 

[SCROLLSAW703]

Yes, KM is correct. Welcome to the forum! Were I in your position, my friend, I would take a look at polar blades. The polar blade can make those turns with ease, and you'll have a far better looking project than with spiral blades. Make no mistake, spiral blades have their place, but, I personally wouldn't recommend them for what you're doing. For your inside cuts, you could drop down to a #3 blade, and maneuver those curves & points in the star more efficiently, and have a sharper looking project. My next suggestion to you would be to try a 1 1/4'' thick maybe? It will still stand up on its own, and take some off your cut thickness, and speed up your cut time. Especially with your inside cuts. the secret I have found is matching the blade to the wood. If you are using poplar, there isn't a need for an overly aggressive blade because it's not a hard wood to cut.. Use a blade that will give you a nice, clean cut.You could even try an ultra reverse blade. Then figure out the speed that you can handle and cut efficiently at. The breed of the saw makes no matter. Experiment, research, practice, and most of all, enjoy what you're doing. Never say "can't" in your hobby. Keep learning & makin' sawdust! God Bless! 

[Jim Finn]

On 7/30/2018 at 3:35 PM, Rockytime said:

Yes Hawks can cut up to two inches. However, and that's just me, I would seriously look at the  PS Wood scroll saws I have not seem a more robust saw. A brand new out of the box  21inch saw, steel stand and quick change blades with free shipping is $799. I have no idea why it is not more popular but my friend has one. It is built more like an industrial machine and yet can produce the very finest work.  If I were to replace my Hawk that would be my next purchase. JMHO

Thank you for this post. I had not looked into PS saws before.  I see that they look like  robust saws and are made in the USA!  

[Tyler]

Thanks everybody!  I will try those polar blades first, as that is the cheapest.  I'm 60 and have never really been around scroll saws before.  The one I am currently using feels like it is skipping, though that may be the blade.  It's only a 100 dollar craftsman.  I know some of you do beautiful detailed work with scroll saws, but what I'm working on now is as much as I will be able to do.  I enjoy this though - gives the feeling of old time toys at Christmas.  Sounds like a polar blade, if I can master it, will leave a lot less finish work for me.  

Thanks!

[Tyler]

ONe think I have already figured out this am - I have a #2 Reverse tooth blade that I tried - the cut was smoother, but no where near wide enough.  I will sand and paint each piece, and I found out last year I need a wide cut to allow for the paint.  I will see if there are any blades to give me the width I get from the sprial cut blade, but allow me to make the turns I need.

Again, really good info here - thank you all.

[kmmcrafts]

Do you know what size and brand spiral blade you're using? A #2 blade isn't a very wide blade as you have figured out.. but this also depends on brand as well.. many times and i think maybe somewhere on this site there are charts for the blade brands that have the sizing info.. Most online sellers show the width of the kerf in the blade details.. you can compare those sizes with what you're using now and find a blade that would maybe give you the kerf spacing you need for your projects.. Generally speaking the higher the number size of the blade.. the larger it will be.. But also just know that sometimes... depending on the blades teeth configuration that wider kerf may also slow down cutting speed.. even though some have a  more aggressive tooth..

I'm just guessing.. but I'd think maybe you're going to want to look at blades in the #7 or #9 size for the wider kerf if you're going to be looking at using a flat blade.. Most unpainted puzzles I make I use a #3 or #5... But again.. sizes by brand and style of blade will vary from one blade to another..   

[SCROLLSAW703]

good point, KM. The wider the blade, the bigger the foot print. Your bigger flat blade would work ok for your outside cuts, I would question maneuverability. But for your inside cuts, you're going to want to go with a #3 or thereabouts in order to get thru your tighter turns. Especially in the star & your other cuts. Something else to consider, if you sand the right side of your blade after you get the tension set, run your saw and hold a piece of 220 grit sand paper agin' the right side of the blade for a few seconds. Your blade will track straighter, & cut just a little cleaner.;) Keep makin' sawdust, my friend! There is nothing you aren't able to do on your Craftsman that we do with our high end saws, Sir. I started out on a Craftsman, & still have one as a back up saw! Keep pluggin' away at this. You'll be makin' your projects to sell before ya know it! God Bless!