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Dry Graphite Lube For My Hawk Saw?


kmmcrafts

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Any certain brand you use for the Hawks.. I'm not sure where to get it locally as I haven't found anything that says it's dry lube.. until I found this stuff.. I've been using light oil but it's messy and not sure how good it's doing for the saw since it gets sawdust and grime stuck in it etc.. I know I read some of you all use a dry graphite..?

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/automotive-maintenance/automotive-grease-lubricants/blaster-reg-industrial-graphite-dry-lubricant-5-5-oz/8-gs/p-1498065592810.htm

 

 Think this will do?

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49 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Is graphite powder also okay for bushing and bearings??  I thought that was the responsibility of oils and greases....  I always use graphite powder for like locks.  My Hegner says oil on the bushings.....

Hawk recommends a light oil for the bearings and bushings as well... but they recommend a dry lube for the front tension release cam area and I think the wedge at the back of the saw.. I've been using just oil.. as that's what the manual says.. however I've seen mention that Hawk now recommends the dry lube.. so I don't know.. I think Brad was one that mentioned he used the dry lube per Hawks recommending it to him.. I thought I'd give it a try and a short test run and check for wear etc.. and see how it goes.. I know the oil collects all the dust and dirt.. etc.. and i don't too much care for that.. and the grimy look that it leaves behind.. after a few hours of cutting  

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18 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Is graphite powder also okay for bushing and bearings??  I thought that was the responsibility of oils and greases....  I always use graphite powder for like locks.  My Hegner says oil on the bushings.....

Paul, most bushings are what is called "oilite" which I think means that they are pre-lubed and should never need any further lubing. I might be wrong but that is what I have always heard.

 

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hello KM. yes, it was me. In the manual for the BM 226, it recommends powdered graphite for lube the wedge and for the tension release at the nose of the top arm. I bought mine at Napa. It's just a small tube of dry graphite. It just takes a snort, & you're set. don't try to force a whole boat load in the tension release because it'll just end up on your saw deck. It just takes a small snort, too. 

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1 hour ago, SCROLLSAW703 said:

hello KM. yes, it was me. In the manual for the BM 226, it recommends powdered graphite for lube the wedge and for the tension release at the nose of the top arm. I bought mine at Napa. It's just a small tube of dry graphite. It just takes a snort, & you're set. don't try to force a whole boat load in the tension release because it'll just end up on your saw deck. It just takes a small snort, too. 

A very small snort. It's messy but it works.

 

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This is what I ended up with since I couldn’t find the graphite. Not sure how good it is but I figured if it didn’t work well for the scroll saw I could use it for door hinges etc on the car and bicycle chain etc. 

So far it seems to be slick and easy working on the saw. But still plan to get the graphite next time I go to the store. I know now that I was looking in the wrong area at the store. So maybe next time I’ll find it.

 

59AA677B-D28C-41C5-BDD8-2FC4632DA6C8.jpeg

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2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

This is what I ended up with since I couldn’t find the graphite. Not sure how good it is but I figured if it didn’t work well for the scroll saw I could use it for door hinges etc on the car and bicycle chain etc. 

So far it seems to be slick and easy working on the saw. But still plan to get the graphite next time I go to the store. I know now that I was looking in the wrong area at the store. So maybe next time I’ll find it.

 

59AA677B-D28C-41C5-BDD8-2FC4632DA6C8.jpeg

This company also makes a great rust loosener. I used it on some tough projects I could not get loose and works better than anything I ever found. 

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  • 2 years later...
On 5/19/2021 at 8:46 AM, BadBob said:

Have you tried DuPont Teflon Lube? I use this on motorcycle chains and other things.

 

Years ago, a locksmith told me never to use graphite in locks. He referred to it as slippery dirt.

Here in the northern states that slippery dirt works really well and is recommended on car locks as it helps to keep moisture out and not having it in there results in a frozen lock that also not only locks others out.. it locks the one with the key out until it warms up above freezing. Not sure about the credibility of that lock smith but he obviously has never worked on many car locks in the north. BTW, I've used the graphite in locks for many years.. one lock I have is 40 years old Master lock.. and has been locked / unlocked etc. pretty much twice a day for all those years.. still working very good.

I'm not sure why Hawk recommends it for the saw.. I don't use it on the saw because of the mess it can make.. I find just regular oil works best for me.. many folks ( one used to be a regular on here ) never ever oil their Hawk saw.. and are production cutters. They've never worn anything out other than the tension cam every 6-8 years, LOL. So I assume oil or any lube is better than none at all. 

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18 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Not sure about the credibility of that lock smith but he obviously has never worked on many car locks in the north.

I lived in North Dakota for several years, and I know all about frozen locks, etc. I quickly learned that to use only synthetics, dry lubes, or no lubrication at all if you wanted it to move at -40F. If you used nonsynthetic oils, you had to heat it to keep it moving. We had propane heaters on our diesel engines and electric heaters on the gasoline engines. Gas engines didn't need heaters if they had synthetic oils.

I don't know or don't remember why the locksmith said that, but I took it to heart and never used graphite again. I never liked the stuff.

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