A table saw blade question

[OCtoolguy]

Maybe this isn't the right forum for this question but I have so much respect for all of you folks that I thought I'd ask anyway. Sometimes, you can make a cheap table saw into a much better saw with the right blade. That's the situation I find myself in. Since I have limited space I don't have a dedicated table saw. I have a portable Dewalt saw with the roll stand. It does a pretty good job. I have done all the fine tuning on it that I can. Now, I want to invest in a good blade. I'm not going to buy a Forrest blade like I used to have. It would more than likely be more costly than the entire saw itself. Anyway, with that said, I would like to get some "expert" feedback on what you folks think is the best blade for the money. I will go as high as $100 but would really like to stay around $50. So, let the games begin. WAITING...........................

 

[Karl S]

Ray, I use the Freud blades mostly, but Dewalt gets pretty good ratings also,  I really love my Freud glue line rip blade. Never have seen the reason to spend as much as the Forrest blades cost, But they have their following of loyal users.

[OCtoolguy]

21 minutes ago, Karl S said:

Ray, I use the Freud blades mostly, but Dewalt gets pretty good ratings also,  I really love my Freud glue line rip blade. Never have seen the reason to spend as much as the Forrest blades cost, But they have their following of loyal users.

Back in the days of a good income, I bought the Forrest Woodworker II and also the dado set. I spent a lot of money foolishly back in those days. That's why I'm shopping now for the best blade for the money. Thanks for your input. I was just looking at the Freud blades on Amazon. Very highly rated but the price is under $50.

 

[oldhudson]

I've been very happy with my Freud blades. (I also own a Woodworker II) I'm assuming you are thinking of a combination blade. Given that, I'd certainly go for their thin kerf. I think the number is LU83R010 (but check that).  There's nothing like a good blade to help a table saw come to life.

[Bill WIlson]

I'll add another plug for Freud blades.  I have several and have been very happy with them.  For the table saw, I use a 24 tooth glue line rip.  Puts a nice edge on the board.  I do all my cross cutting on my RAS or my CMS, but they typically have Freud blades in them as well.

[OCtoolguy]

12 minutes ago, oldhudson said:

I've been very happy with my Freud blades. (I also own a Woodworker II) I'm assuming you are thinking of a combination blade. Given that, I'd certainly go for their thin kerf. I think the number is LU83R010 (but check that).  There's nothing like a good blade to help a table saw come to life.

What do you think of this blade? It's a bit cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A41WL3SOLJ8TZ&psc=1

Edited September 25, 2018 by octoolguy

[Sycamore67]

The majority of my blades are Freud.  I have several including a glue line rip, fine cross cut and a Premier Fusion.  I use the rip blade the most.

Just for info, I am using these on a cabinet saw.  It is a bit different using them on a portable saw and you would want the thin kerf variety.

[Roberta Moreton]

I am pleased with Freud. Decent blade and a good enough price so you can replace as necessary. 

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, Sycamore67 said:

The majority of my blades are Freud.  I have several including a glue line rip, fine cross cut and a Premier Fusion.  I use the rip blade the most.

Just for info, I am using these on a cabinet saw.  It is a bit different using them on a portable saw and you would want the thin kerf variety.

In my other life, I had a Delta Unisaw. BIG difference but I can't have anything like that anymore. For one thing, I only have 110 a.c. 100 amp.

 

[Scrappile]

I think I am with most.  I like the Freud, I have a Forrest Woodworker blade the cost over twice as much but it does not cut twice as good..... The Freud cuts just as good for me and lasts just as long.  So I pick the red one.

[OCtoolguy]

Just now, Scrappile said:

I think I am with most.  I like the Freud, I have a Forrest Woodworker blade the cost over twice as much but it does not cut twice as good..... The Freud cuts just as good for me and lasts just as long.  So I pick the red one.

It was about 20 years ago that I bought my Forrest blades. I will say, when I would cut oak it could be edge glued with no other finishing. Perfect cuts. At that time, it was a war between Freud and Forrest. Now, I just want GOOD and CHEAP. 

 

[Oldmansbike]

Another vote for Freud. I use their Diablo blades and the glue line rip blades. Local Home Depot carries them or Amazon.

[OCtoolguy]

11 minutes ago, Oldmansbike said:

Another vote for Freud. I use their Diablo blades and the glue line rip blades. Local Home Depot carries them or Amazon.

That's what I'm looking at on Amazon. $36.

 

[OCtoolguy]

I just found this out on the net. It comes from someone within the Freud company. An explanation of there different levels of blades. Very good to know.

Here is a responce provided by a Freud tech guy a number of years ago.

QUOTE

All Freud blades come from the same machines in the same manufacturing plant. We make our own micrograin carbide in numerous formulations that represent various degrees of hardness. The carbide is selected depending on the intended application (the hardest is used for laminates the softest for ripping) as are the tooth angles and tooth quantity. The steel for the blade plates is all the same grade. The brazing is all the same. The key differences between the 3 main lines of Freud blades are: 

The LU/LM Industrial blades have the thickest tips for the most resharpenings and are generally full kerf. We also offer the most selection of specialty blades in this line. These have the most appeal to professionals who need to get a lot of sharpenings out of a blade and to artisans who need specialty blades for their projects. 

The TK and Diablo lines are very similar. Both are thin kerf blades and the tip thickness is the same. The key difference is in the way we market these blades. The Diablo line has blades intended for purposes like framing, siding, decking and general home improvement and is packaged and promoted in ways that appeal to contractors and DIYers. The TK line has blades for similar purposes (as well as laminate blades) but is sold with different or no coating and different packaging and POP material to appeal more to woodworkers.

Do professional woodworkers shop for blades at Home Depot? Probably some do and they can get excellent performance from a Diablo blade for a lot of their uses but with a shorter overall life (and lower cost) due to the tip thickness. Same with the TK blades at Lowe's.

Why not compare a TK or Diablo blade to Forrest? Consider this analogy: Toyota cars and Lexus cars share a lot of the same components and are made by the same company. Would you compare a Camry with a BMW?

We make a fourth line of blades (F400 Premier series) that is very similar to the WWII and is priced similarly. The difference between ours and Forrest's is that ours is made by computer controlled, super modern equipment and theirs is made by hand. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but I leave the final verdict to the consumer.

Charles M 
Freud, Inc. 
 

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Ray I will add my vote for Freud blades as I told Kevin in his thread. The info you posted is all true and there is so much more tech talk to go with the many different style of blades and grades of blades. Specialty blades are necessary for those in the trades and that do fine furniture work. You can not go wrong with the Freud line. If you are are both crosscutting and ripping then a combo blade is a good economical way to go. Anything in the 40 tooth to 60 tooth is a good mid range field and good cut results. Of course you are not building fine furniture with a table top saw so no need to spend huge money on better quality blades. With this all said being you owned a cabinet saw you know the huge difference in saws between a cabinet saw and table top so accuracy is what you can tune it to. Also highly suggest thin kerf blades for that saw. They are well underpowered for cutting thick hard woods. 

Boy I can get started on so many things when it comes to talking tools but to keep it simple Freud is my choice. 

[Rockytime]

6 hours ago, octoolguy said:

What do you think of this blade? It's a bit cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A41WL3SOLJ8TZ&psc=1

I just placed an order for that blade. I also have a lightweight saw. Lowe's Kobalt saw with the folding stand on wheels. I have been suffering along for over a year with original cheap blade. I also had a 1946 Dewalt Uni-saw. I had no need for such a saw. Cast iron base. Even on wheels it took some effort to wheel it out to the driveway. It also took more room than I had to spare. Once my motorcycle was gone my wife wanted her car in the garage. Go figure.

[don in brooklin on]

I just went down and looked at my saw and I have he Freud Diablo 1050X on my General contractor saw.  I use for almost everything.  I do have a Freud Ripping blade that I change to when cutting hard wood for cutting boards.

I also have a cheap Dewalt 7 1/4 blade that I use when I cut thin slats for my baskets.  There are videos that recommend using a 7 1/4 most of the time.  I can't locate the one I watched but the chap used it for everything.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

After my shop burned, I picked up used tools to replace the ones I had.   I found an old very heavy duty 10 in. Craftsman table saw at an auction.  No one wanted it because it was 220 volt.  I got it for $12.00.   I got around to re-wiring the motor for 120 volt and the old blade was warped enough that the kerf was about 3 times as wide as the blade.   I got a 110 tooth Freud blade and gagged at the cost, but it was so worth it.  After three years, it still cuts smooth as glass.  I cut almost entirely hard woods.  I have mostly cut through 3.5 inch oak, a few months I was cutting sugar maple and recently tulip poplar and it still cuts as smooth as can be.   I have been cutting turning blanks, which means both cross cuts and rip cuts.    So three years of hobby use and the blade is great. 

[tomsteve]

i have an 80 tooth freud in my chopsaw, another 80 tooth that goes on my ts plus a combo and glue line rip all freud. personally dont think the glue line rip was worth it and it collects a lot of dust but the others can get a workout. the combo stays on the TS the most and has been a workhorse. i have had it for about 8 years now with 1 sharpening so far. they all cut real good for me. 

IF i were to look at a different brand of blade it would be an infinity

https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-blades/combination-saw-blades

pretty good prices on their saw blade packages

ive read nothing but praise for them,too. great place for jointer/planer blades,too.

Edited September 26, 2018 by tomsteve

[oldhudson]

17 hours ago, octoolguy said:

What do you think of this blade? It's a bit cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A41WL3SOLJ8TZ&psc=1

Looks like a fine replacement for your OEM blade. There are so many to choose from, even within a brand, and there seems to be no place for definitive and authoritative information. But the reviews look good. 

[innar20]

Mine vote also to Freud. 

The is not a good and cheap blade.

In Estonia we say - If you want cheap and good you must buy two things (read - blade). Cheap and good.

[WayneMahler]

I like the Freud blades. Hold up well and give clean cuts. 

[OCtoolguy]

7 hours ago, don in brooklin on said:

I just went down and looked at my saw and I have he Freud Diablo 1050X on my General contractor saw.  I use for almost everything.  I do have a Freud Ripping blade that I change to when cutting hard wood for cutting boards.

I also have a cheap Dewalt 7 1/4 blade that I use when I cut thin slats for my baskets.  There are videos that recommend using a 7 1/4 most of the time.  I can't locate the one I watched but the chap used it for everything.

 

On a 10" saw?

 

[tomsteve]

1 minute ago, octoolguy said:

On a 10" saw?

 

on a table saw its possible as long at the hole matches the arbor. i used to run a 7 1/4 combo" blade for a long time. they have enough capacity to cut at least 1 1/2" thick material on a TS.

[OCtoolguy]

18 minutes ago, tomsteve said:

on a table saw its possible as long at the hole matches the arbor. i used to run a 7 1/4 combo" blade for a long time. they have enough capacity to cut at least 1 1/2" thick material on a TS.

I would never have given that any thought. I'll bet it would be like tripling the horsepower of the saw too.