A table saw blade question

[don in brooklin on]

Here is the video of using the 7 1/4 blade.

Fairly long but very informative.

https://youtu.be/lVO7BkA6CN4

[OCtoolguy]

39 minutes ago, don in brooklin on said:

Here is the video of using the 7 1/4 blade.

Fairly long but very informative.

https://youtu.be/lVO7BkA6CN4

Very interesting. And it makes sense too. Thanks for bringing this up to all of us who may not have known it was possible. I'm going shopping right now for a smaller blade.

 

[tomsteve]

12 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Very interesting. And it makes sense too. Thanks for bringing this up to all of us who may not have known it was possible. I'm going shopping right now for a smaller blade.

 

them freud(diablo) 7 1/4" blades are good,too.

[scrollerpete]

My vote goes to Freud also, I have them on my table saw and miter saw, also they can be sharpen many times and still worked to perfection.

[trackman]

What is a “glue line rip blade “? How is it different from a normal rip  blade?

[new2woodwrk]

I have tried 6 blades so far from various mfgs - I can say that I now use Freud exclusively.

So much so that I use them in my Miter saw, circiular and my table saw.

Works great for me and the kerf is very thin on some of mine

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I do not agree with that guy totally on many things but will address the smaller blade. First do not get overconfident of a smaller blade as opposed to a larger one. Any spinning blade will cut you and yes kick back can happen on any saw with any blade.  I have used the smaller blade on my saw also but do so because of the thinner kerf I need and nothing more. The blade he kept referencing which was a larger blade was a full size blade made for belt drive saws.Table top saws do well with thin kerf blades. Small blades like the one he shows will wear out faster than a full size because those teeth need to move through the wood more often than a larger blade. A blade does not get raised more than 3 to 4 teeth above work surface you are cutting. Never more than that. (Of course there are some instances that is not the case) A larger blade will have larger carbide teeth than a small blade like that. Larger blades are balanced better than smaller ones like that. Those are designed for skil saws. Skil saws are construct saws and perfection is not a concern. Cutting hard woods you want a solid well tuned blade. Tablesaws are designed for 10" blades. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, trackman said:

What is a “glue line rip blade “? How is it different from a normal rip  blade?

The difference is the teeth configuration. A normal rip blade has FTG teeth (flat top grind) Designed for easy ripping and removing material. In a glue line blade they are more designed to rip also but with a cleaner edge because they use 3 different teeth FTG and TCG (flat top grind and triple chip grind teeth) Both have deep gullets and more hook than crosscut.  

[trackman]

12 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

The difference is the teeth configuration. A normal rip blade has FTG teeth (flat top grind) Designed for easy ripping and removing material. In a glue line blade they are more designed to rip also but with a cleaner edge because they use 3 different teeth FTG and TCG (flat top grind and triple chip grind teeth) Both have deep gullets and more hook than crosscut.  

Thanks for the information. 

[Scrappile]

Here is the one you need!

https://www.infinitytools.com/10-laser-kerf-saw-blade-40t-1-16-kerf

watch the little video.. 

On thing I do highly recommend for a table saw is GRR-Ripper pushblock used in the video.  I have two and use them a lot.

[OCtoolguy]

4 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Here is the one you need!

https://www.infinitytools.com/10-laser-kerf-saw-blade-40t-1-16-kerf

watch the little video.. 

On thing I do highly recommend for a table saw is GRR-Ripper pushblock used in the video.  I have two and use them a lot.

Since I have one of those "cheap jobsite" saws, I may just go the 7 1/4" route for most of my cuts. It sure makes a lot of sense and it would have to be much easier on my saw. I sure do wish I had room for even a small belt drive saw. I may have to do some more figuring.

 

[Scrappile]

56 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Since I have one of those "cheap jobsite" saws, I may just go the 7 1/4" route for most of my cuts. It sure makes a lot of sense and it would have to be much easier on my saw. I sure do wish I had room for even a small belt drive saw. I may have to do some more figuring.

 

Come on,,, only $179,  worth buying one just to try it!!

[OCtoolguy]

1 minute ago, Scrappile said:

Come on,,, only $179,  worth buying one just to try it!!

That's almost what I have in the saw. Ha!

 

[Rockytime]

I now still have the have the original cheap blade in my little Kobalt saw. 10". The greater the diameter the greater the surface speed. So while the motor goes at a constant speed the 10" blade will have a greater surface speed than a smaller blade. Same as on a lathe, mill, drill or saw. Perhaps the difference is negligible but it is still there. I'll continue to use my new 10" Diablo blade when it arrives to0morrow. No argument here. Just stating an opinion. But what the hell do know? 

[OCtoolguy]

50 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

I now still have the have the original cheap blade in my little Kobalt saw. 10". The greater the diameter the greater the surface speed. So while the motor goes at a constant speed the 10" blade will have a greater surface speed than a smaller blade. Same as on a lathe, mill, drill or saw. Perhaps the difference is negligible but it is still there. I'll continue to use my new 10" Diablo blade when it arrives to0morrow. No argument here. Just stating an opinion. But what the hell do know? 

I'm going to get one of each and cover all my bases. I know about as much as you Les. But, I don't know squat about building a clock/watch.

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Since I have one of those "cheap jobsite" saws, I may just go the 7 1/4" route for most of my cuts. It sure makes a lot of sense and it would have to be much easier on my saw. I sure do wish I had room for even a small belt drive saw. I may have to do some more figuring.

 

Ray I say this with respect, I would not do it on a constant bases. Certain times when a thinner kerf is needed it will work. But those smaller blades are not designed for the rpms generated by a tablesaw. The carbide is not as good as a full size blade because these are framing blades. Throw a piece of carbide in some hardwood will not be pretty. The flex in those blades is something that needs to be contended with. (heat will build on those small blades because of speed and amount of times the teeth are in contact with the wood) That video is an accident waiting to happen he had a board climb out of the blade depth that could have cause a kick back. I would not show that video to anyone working in the woodworking business. Too many do not dos in there for my viewing. Any tablesaw weather a tabletop or full size would come with a small blade if they were designed for it but they do not. They come with a 10" blade unless it is a smaller saw. Get yourself a nice quality thin kerf blade and be safe. 

[OCtoolguy]

8 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Ray I say this with respect, I would not do it on a constant bases. Certain times when a thinner kerf is needed it will work. But those smaller blades are not designed for the rpms generated by a tablesaw. The carbide is not as good as a full size blade because these are framing blades. Throw a piece of carbide in some hardwood will not be pretty. The flex in those blades is something that needs to be contended with. (heat will build on those small blades because of speed and amount of times the teeth are in contact with the wood) That video is an accident waiting to happen he had a board climb out of the blade depth that could have cause a kick back. I would not show that video to anyone working in the woodworking business. Too many do not dos in there for my viewing. Any tablesaw weather a tabletop or full size would come with a small blade if they were designed for it but they do not. They come with a 10" blade unless it is a smaller saw. Get yourself a nice quality thin kerf blade and be safe. 

Yes Sir! Will do as you suggest.

 

[Bill WIlson]

13 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Ray I say this with respect, I would not do it on a constant bases. Certain times when a thinner kerf is needed it will work. But those smaller blades are not designed for the rpms generated by a tablesaw. The carbide is not as good as a full size blade because these are framing blades. Throw a piece of carbide in some hardwood will not be pretty. The flex in those blades is something that needs to be contended with. (heat will build on those small blades because of speed and amount of times the teeth are in contact with the wood) That video is an accident waiting to happen he had a board climb out of the blade depth that could have cause a kick back. I would not show that video to anyone working in the woodworking business. Too many do not dos in there for my viewing. Any tablesaw weather a tabletop or full size would come with a small blade if they were designed for it but they do not. They come with a 10" blade unless it is a smaller saw. Get yourself a nice quality thin kerf blade and be safe. 

Well said John.  I agree.  There are all sorts of videos showing people doing all sorts of things that may appear safe, but the simple fact is, as you stated, these full size saws are designed to work with proper size blade.  The fact that they may be able to accept different size blades is likely more an accident of circumstance than by design.  A smaller blade, for a one-of application, may work OK, but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it.

[OCtoolguy]

Well, I went to Home Depot today and they had the Diable 10-50 for $36.97. With my 10% veterans discount, well, you get the idea. Anyway, it sure seems like a very well made blade. Thanks to all for your help and I gained a ton of knowledge on this subject. Since there is a very similar topic going on with Kevin and his miter saw, between the two, I am now "almost" an expert. Ha!

 

[Rockytime]

I received my Diablo 50 tooth blade yesterday and mounted it today. Very smooth cutting. I did some cross cutting as well as ripping a board. I think my original Kobalt blade would have been fine except...    When I bought the saw a couple of years ago I removed the riving knife. It was the weak part of the saw, made kind of poor. Then I started up the saw and heard a nasty noise. Turned off the saw and turned it on again and it ran smooth with no noise. Today when I changed blades I discovered a thick 2X2" piece of steel. It had been pretty badly scored by the blade. I think it must have been part of the riving device. I think that is why the original blade did not cut real well. I have not checked the old blade but I think it may be missing a couple of carbide tips. New blade came just in time

[OCtoolguy]

Do any of you use a blade stiffener along side of your blades? I used to have one that I bought with my Forrest blade. It really did make the blade a lot more rigid. I'm trying to find one. I am using a very large washer right now. 

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

9 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Do any of you use a blade stiffener along side of your blades? I used to have one that I bought with my Forrest blade. It really did make the blade a lot more rigid. I'm trying to find one. I am using a very large washer right now. 

 

They do limit the height of the blade. I have one but do not use it. Thin kerf blades would benefit with them but if you do not push the work too fast you should be just fine.