kmmcrafts Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 A few years ago for Christmas I received from my brother - in -law this jig to sharpen the planer / jointer knives.. I never used the thing and actually forgot I had it.. while going through my tool cabinet today I ran across it and though.. hey my knives are getting dull.. actually planned to place a order before the months end for some new knives.. So, I gave this little jig a whirl and I have to say.. it cuts quite well again.. not quite as good as a new set probably but certainly better than they was.. Maybe could be as good as new if i spent more time on them with different grits of paper.. but anyway.. Just thought I'd share my experience with this tool.. and wondered if anyone else has this or something similar.. I know there are tons of videos on youtube about making a jig with your table saw.. I was researching that a couple of years ago when my brother inlaw was here... guessing that's what gave him the gift idea, LOL https://www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuafdBRDmARIsAPpBmVXdE3HAHxBO4lqlSHgYOubgiwusTy9OgThqTfkOS-oxh8cJmt5bYRYaApXMEALw_wcB new2woodwrk and tomsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 This is what i use Kevin http://woodworker.com/diamond-hone-mate-mssu-880-889.asp I also use and have basically only use now is Trend diamond sharpening system. Here is a file that shows what and how to use. There is differences in diamond sharpeners and the way diamonds pieces are adhered to the tool and also the type diamonds used. Makes a huge difference in quality of sharpening. I now sharpen router bits, saw blades, plane blades, planer and jointer blades, all my turning tools can be touched up, chisels and so on. Here is the link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/trend_diamond_sharpening.pdf The problem with sandpaper is wood sandpaper is not good for sharpening any blades. The grains are too course even at the finest grits. You scratch the blades with micro scratches that need to be polished out if you want scary sharp results. That is why strops are used in many instances. Takes that burr off. If you are going to use sandpaper then use wet dry metal paper (the black stuff) This subject also applies to grinding wheels and the differences in wheels. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) 30 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: This is what i use Kevin http://woodworker.com/diamond-hone-mate-mssu-880-889.asp I also use and have basically only use now is Trend diamond sharpening system. Here is a file that shows what and how to use. There is differences in diamond sharpeners and the way diamonds pieces are adhered to the tool and also the type diamonds used. Makes a huge difference in quality of sharpening. I now sharpen router bits, saw blades, plane blades, planer and jointer blades, all my turning tools can be touched up, chisels and so on. Here is the link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/trend_diamond_sharpening.pdf The problem with sandpaper is wood sandpaper is not good for sharpening any blades. The grains are too course even at the finest grits. You scratch the blades with micro scratches that need to be polished out if you want scary sharp results. That is why strops are used in many instances. Takes that burr off. If you are going to use sandpaper then use wet dry metal paper (the black stuff) This subject also applies to grinding wheels and the differences in wheels. Yeah, I used what I had on hand.. in a normal situation I'd probably use a much finer paper.. Today all i had was 600 grit wet dry paper and I used it wet.. I use the black wet / dry paper a lot on the autobody business to color sand any over sprays etc off and then buff the cars out.. Normally use on the paint a 1200 for quick cutting blemished spots in paint.. but the final grit before buffing would be 2200 2500 grit.. but the finest paper i had here was only the 600.. so I gave it a go since i had planned to order new knives anyway.. but thinking I might not need new ones yet now.. probably pick up some finer grit sand paper next time I make a run to the bodyshop supply store.. That sharpening stone looks quite interesting.. and I'm sure is a much better way than even using the "Good" sandpaper.. I might have to invest in one of these Edited September 26, 2018 by kmmcrafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said: Yeah, I used what I had on hand.. in a normal situation I'd probably use a much finer paper.. Today all i had was 600 grit wet dry paper and I used it wet.. I use the black wet / dry paper a lot on the autobody business to color sand any over sprays etc off and then buff the cars out.. Normally use on the paint a 1200 for quick cutting blemished spots in paint.. but the final grit before buffing would be 2200 2500 grit.. but the finest paper i had here was only the 600.. so I gave it a go since i had planned to order new knives anyway.. but thinking I might not need new ones yet now.. probably pick up some finer grit sand paper next time I make a run to the bodyshop supply store.. That sharpening stone looks quite interesting.. and I'm sure is a much better way than even using the "Good" sandpaper.. I might have to invest in one of these I have used it on my jointer many times. I probably use my jointer more than the planer but not by much. I have an old lunch box style Delta planer and the blades have to come out to sharpen. Boy the amount of BF that went through that thing. It owes me absolutely nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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