Table Saw Belt Drive Vrs Direct Drive?

[kmmcrafts]

Talking over the years with other woodworkers and the topic always seems to come up about the new direct drive table saws.. the consensus seems to be they don't like the direct drive saws.. 

What is your take on the two?

I've never used a belt drive saw.. I only have and have used my little cheapy Tradesman 10" benchtop type saw.. I have a big older Craftsman belt drive saw if I want to go pick it up.. was my father inlaws and was given to me if I want it.. back then ( before my new shop ) I didn't have room for it..

But before I do drag the thing home.. I'd like to know if I really do want it, LOL  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Oh Kevin I see you are stepping up to some manly tools. Well I will add my 2 cents worth here. The difference between belt drive and direct drive is simple. The motor!! In a direct drive motor it is a universal motor such as all hand tools have and they have brushes. A belt drive uses an induction motor, no brushes. 

universal motors are noisy and require maintenance (bearings and brushes) Much lower HP rating (never compare HP rating of universal motor with induction motor, not comparable) Tablesaws with those motors are bench top saws. They are noisy and whinny. They can not handle cuts like a induction motor because of less hp. They get hot when worked hard. The way the blade is attached to the arbor of the motor makes less cutting height and use of a blade. The blade can not protrude through the table as high. Being they are tabletop models, less weight and this means more vibration tranfered through blade from motor. Could cause chatter marks on cuts. 

Induction motor tablesaws. Higher quality of saw. Belts take out vibration Much quieter. Motors do not run as hot. More working HP. More blade usage because you can raise it higher. Motors last a life time. Only come full size because the way the motor needs to hang. Much more weight with cast iron tables and better inners. Can get these saws in a full Cabinet saw, Contractors saw, or Hybrid saws which is basically a combination of a contractors saw and cabinet saw (smaller footprint than cabinet saw but combines features of both plus cost less) I own a Delta 10" contractors saw and it is and always be my work horse and tool that gets used the most in my shop. Every single project made in my shop has touched the tablesaw in some way.  I own a Craftsman table top on a stand saw that I leave out in my shed and use for quick projects that do not require precision.  I was forced to buy it because of the price. It was on closeout when sears was closing stores in my area. Built my shed with it but do not use much. 

Have any specific questions be glad to add my thoughts. I tried to give a general overview as to main differences.

[munzieb]

I have a 10" cast Iron Sears Table Saw. I had used it on and off for various furniture and wood working projects for over 20 years. It was never that accurate until I decided to tighten it up. Once I started making small boxes and scroll saw projects, all my cuts needed to be spot on. I adjusted the blade tracking and zeroed the angle stops. I still have the manual! and all adjustments are detailed. I always use a digital angle meter for miter cuts since the front facing indicator is a "sort of" thing.  This saw is a belt drive and I have not had issues with it  bogging down. After 20+ years it was time to replace the belt because it had stretched to the end stop and occasionally the belt pulley will track out and rub on the side of the case. I loosen the hex screw and push it back in place. I have made a few jigs and added some storage underneath the one side to keep my assorted tools specific to the saw. I have a dust catcher base I attach it to my shopvac. I do need to remove the MDF blocking plate when doing angle cuts since the motor rotates. I live and breath my miter sled and flat sled.  It makes quick work of molding and small pieces. Both plans from Woodsmith.  I have an I-Box tool that allows me to knock box joint boxes quickly. The 1/4" PW board on top is a great AUX work surface. Only thing I still need is to do is make an end feed attachment.  The unit is on a roller stand and I can quickly rotate it when I need to cut large panels. Even though its old like me, it still works good!

[Bill WIlson]

I don't know anything about the new direct drive saws, but I used to have an old Craftsman DD saw.  It was way underpowered.  Like others have said, direct drive is used on portable saws, in order to minimize their foot print and weight.  If you are buying a new table saw and don't need the portability, definitely go with the belt driven saw.

[Rockytime]

My Delta Uni-Saw had a HUGE belt drive motor. It did operate on 110V. The base was cast iron and had a door at the base of the cabinet to scoop out the sawdust. A Delta 1946 model. Parts are still available for it. As wonderful as that saw was I could not justify the space it took since I did very little with it. I guess I bought it from an old retired friend who wanted it to go to a good home. Two wheels had been placed on the back of the saw but still took two men and a small boy to move it around. To use it I would tug it out to the driveway. Pushing it back into the garage was another matter. I sold it two years ago and bought Lowe's little Kobalt saw with the collapsible base and wheels. Since scrolling I roll out that little bugger sometimes twice a day. Sometimes for just one little cut. It will not make fine boxes or make delicate cuts but it is convenient. Had I the room I would wish for my Delta again. I envy those with large shops.

[tomsteve]

2 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Oh Kevin I see you are stepping up to some manly tools. Well I will add my 2 cents worth here. The difference between belt drive and direct drive is simple. The motor!! In a direct drive motor it is a universal motor such as all hand tools have and they have brushes. A belt drive uses an induction motor, no brushes. 

universal motors are noisy and require maintenance (bearings and brushes) Much lower HP rating (never compare HP rating of universal motor with induction motor, not comparable) Tablesaws with those motors are bench top saws. They are noisy and whinny. They can not handle cuts like a induction motor because of less hp. They get hot when worked hard. The way the blade is attached to the arbor of the motor makes less cutting height and use of a blade. The blade can not protrude through the table as high. Being they are tabletop models, less weight and this means more vibration tranfered through blade from motor. Could cause chatter marks on cuts. 

Induction motor tablesaws. Higher quality of saw. Belts take out vibration Much quieter. Motors do not run as hot. More working HP. More blade usage because you can raise it higher. Motors last a life time. Only come full size because the way the motor needs to hang. Much more weight with cast iron tables and better inners. Can get these saws in a full Cabinet saw, Contractors saw, or Hybrid saws which is basically a combination of a contractors saw and cabinet saw (smaller footprint than cabinet saw but combines features of both plus cost less) I own a Delta 10" contractors saw and it is and always be my work horse and tool that gets used the most in my shop. Every single project made in my shop has touched the tablesaw in some way.  I own a Craftsman table top on a stand saw that I leave out in my shed and use for quick projects that do not require precision.  I was forced to buy it because of the price. It was on closeout when sears was closing stores in my area. Built my shed with it but do not use much. 

Have any specific questions be glad to add my thoughts. I tried to give a general overview as to main differences.

i thought i read something about direct drives not having the depth capacity of belt? the blade wont raise up as high on direct drive?and something about blade tilt-  something like direct drives dont tilt as far as belt drive?

[OCtoolguy]

4 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Talking over the years with other woodworkers and the topic always seems to come up about the new direct drive table saws.. the consensus seems to be they don't like the direct drive saws.. 

What is your take on the two?

I've never used a belt drive saw.. I only have and have used my little cheapy Tradesman 10" benchtop type saw.. I have a big older Craftsman belt drive saw if I want to go pick it up.. was my father inlaws and was given to me if I want it.. back then ( before my new shop ) I didn't have room for it..

But before I do drag the thing home.. I'd like to know if I really do want it, LOL  

Go get it. The simple fact that moving the entire motor/blade mechanism leaves do much chance for variance is enough to warrant the belt drive saw. I'd have one in a heartbeat if I had the space for it. And, if the motor goes bad, you replace it and not the whole saw. The price is certainly not an issue so go get it.
Another thing that is cool about that saw Kevin is you can make an extension table for one side of it and install a router under it. Then use the t/s fence with the router. Really works out great. I'd love to be able to do that with my Dewalt but (sigh) not doable.

 

 

Edited September 26, 2018 by octoolguy

[WayneMahler]

I have a Ridgid Cabinet Saw in my shop. It's belt drive and compared to it's predecessor which was direct drive. Hands down on the belt drive . Smoother more power and more reliable in my opinion. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

4 hours ago, tomsteve said:

i thought i read something about direct drives not having the depth capacity of belt? the blade wont raise up as high on direct drive?and something about blade tilt-  something like direct drives dont tilt as far as belt drive?

This is very true and I mentioned it to Kevin in my write up. The trunion set-up on a belt drive saw is much more accurate and allows the blade to be raised higher. Belt drive is so much better in many ways. 

[new2woodwrk]

I have a Delta 36-725, I upgraded from an old craftsman - both were direct drives and since I have no experience with belt driven saws, I can only say that my Delta is a fantastic tool.

I've had for 2 years now, and after tuning it, I can do any task I've needed.

It's very quiet, and so far has cut everything I've put through it. From: Logs to plywood to hard wood. From dadoes to miter sawing it delivers very accurate cuts (within 1/32).

For the price is was and remains the perfect table saw for my needs.

[dgman]

Another vote for belt drive. My Delta Unl-Saw has three belts and runs as smooth as can be. No vibration and is very quiet. I know it will outlast me and whoever gets it after I’m gone. Bought it about 15 years ago.

There used to be a woodworking store in New Mexico called Woodworks Warehouse that was an outlet store for Delta. I got a 3hp, right tilt saw with a 30” Unifence, delivered to my driveway for $1200. It was a purchase of a lifetime!

[OCtoolguy]

52 minutes ago, dgman said:

Another vote for belt drive. My Delta Unl-Saw has three belts and runs as smooth as can be. No vibration and is very quiet. I know it will outlast me and whoever gets it after I’m gone. Bought it about 15 years ago.

There used to be a woodworking store in New Mexico called Woodworks Warehouse that was an outlet store for Delta. I got a 3hp, right tilt saw with a 30” Unifence, delivered to my driveway for $1200. It was a purchase of a lifetime!

I did you one better Dan. I got the same saw, a 12 spd drill press and a 14" bandsaw all delivered to my house for $2100. It helped that I was in the tool business though. No sales tax.

 

[Woodmaster1]

I had a craftsman 10” contractor saw, hated it and gave it away. I now have a 5hp delta unisaw.     Teaching woodworking and using the powermatic tablesaw I just dislike anything that is not up to par. To answer your question belt drive beats direct drive any day.