I'm temped to spend $30 on this saw

[OCtoolguy]

I seem to remember reading about these saws somewhere and the general consensus was that they were pretty good. Should I take a gamble and buy this one? It's only about 15 minutes from me.

 

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-variable-speed-scroll/6714833756.html

[CharleyL]

Ray,

That's a pretty good saw. I have a type 1 and still use it, although I like the DeWalt 788 a bit better because the blade grips and tension adjust are a bit easier to use on the 788. 

A type 1 saw has a slow to start delay each time you turn it on, somewhat like the slow start feature in routers, etc.,but the speed control works very welland holds the set speed once it is running. I've been told that the speed control works better in the type 2 version. I was also told that the blade grips and tension adjustment are slightly improved in the type 2 version. Because of the rocking C frame design the blade has very little forward and back movement at the table level, but when cutting thicker materials, this rocking forward and back movement of the blade is more pronounced, but not usually a problem. It's this rocking motion that gives the saw a faster cutting action, and I prefer it when cutting larger and less delicate fret work.  It's blade clamps and tension adjustment are radically different, but not bad. They are just different, and not as easy to use.

This saw came out about 2 years before the DeWalt 788 was announced, and it was one of the top saws back then, but it's production life was short because of the introduction of the DeWalt 788.

Again, I still like and use my Q3 Delta saw, although it isn't my preferred saw. I would be all over that one at the price being asked, since I could use another saw for my students and at that price, it's a steal, if it is working.

If you want a faster cutting saw, this saw cuts faster than the Excalibur, DeWalt, and other saws available new today, especially if you are doing larger and less complicated fret work. It is every bit as accurate and will make a good second, back-up, or spare saw. that may just be ideal if you don't cut the tiny compound cut the tiny reindeer or cross ear rings like I do, but I have actually succeeded in making them on my Delta Q3 saw. It's just not as easy.

If that saw was on my side of the Country, I would be after it myself.

Charley

[kmmcrafts]

I don't have any experience with these personally.. My nephew has one that lighting took out the circuit board or motor.. and many parts are obsolete.. He loved the saw better than his DeWalt and would like to find another one.. ( just his preference and maybe his style of cutting ) 

I've read that a lot of people do not care for them as they are a more aggressive cutting saw.. I'd probably describe the cutting to a Ex saw that the blade instead of being perfectly straight up and down for fine fretwork is set to a more aggressive front to back motion.. Like I said.. I don't know how aggressive because I don't have any cutting experience on them..

That all said... I know many people that would love to find one for that price.. LOL I don't think they have any tuning ability for blade movement like the EX type saws too.. just thought I'd mention that..    

[OCtoolguy]

I figured that for $30 how wrong could I go. I already wrote the seller and told them that I'd take the saw as long as it runs. The plate that is missing in the pics is not a problem either. I can either make one or spent another $10 for the factory plate.

Thanks to you fellers for the comeback.

 

[Rockytime]

You will do well. I see on the Denver Craigslist there three Q3s ranging from $150 to $250. One is listed as a Type 2. I have heard only good things about them. Also a Hegner Multi-max 18 for $395. Looks like new but does not have the front tension release.

[OCtoolguy]

31 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

You will do well. I see on the Denver Craigslist there three Q3s ranging from $150 to $250. One is listed as a Type 2. I have heard only good things about them. Also a Hegner Multi-max 18 for $395. Looks like new but does not have the front tension release.

I was thinking that if I buy this saw and I don't care for it, I should make a buck or two on it. I just love tinkering with stuff to make it work right. I guess that's what made me sell the Hegner. I couldn't make it work the way I thought it should without spending a ton of money. Now, someone else can mess with it.

 

[stoney]

Ray you could make your money back just on the blade clamps providing they are in good shape.   I had a Delta P 20 with the same type clamps and I loved them.   The clamps are no longer available,( thanks to Delta),so I'm quite sure you would not have any problem selling them for more money then they are asking for the whole saw.   As a matter of fact I like them so well I have a set installed on an old Craftsman I use for backup.     Oh, by the way Rolf has one of the Delta clamps installed as the top clamp on his Hawk.

[OCtoolguy]

48 minutes ago, stoney said:

Ray you could make your money back just on the blade clamps providing they are in good shape.   I had a Delta P 20 with the same type clamps and I loved them.   The clamps are no longer available,( thanks to Delta),so I'm quite sure you would not have any problem selling them for more money then they are asking for the whole saw.   As a matter of fact I like them so well I have a set installed on an old Craftsman I use for backup.     Oh, by the way Rolf has one of the Delta clamps installed as the top clamp on his Hawk.

I just bought the saw as far as I know. The seller contacted me and said he is selling it cheap because of the throat plate being gone. He says it runs. I didn't get into the blade clamps. I guess I should have. I'll email him back and ask. Thanks Stoney.

 

[OCtoolguy]

I went and picked up the saw today. It is a Q3- 40-650 type 1. I had no idea that there was a type or type 2 or whatever. Anyway, I downloaded the manual and it is for the type 2. Does anybody have a copy of the type 1 that I can get? I can't find where the manual section is here on SSV. I thought I could but I can't. 

 

[OCtoolguy]

On 10/4/2018 at 12:54 PM, CharleyL said:

Ray,

That's a pretty good saw. I have a type 1 and still use it, although I like the DeWalt 788 a bit better because the blade grips and tension adjust are a bit easier to use on the 788. 

A type 1 saw has a slow to start delay each time you turn it on, somewhat like the slow start feature in routers, etc.,but the speed control works very welland holds the set speed once it is running. I've been told that the speed control works better in the type 2 version. I was also told that the blade grips and tension adjustment are slightly improved in the type 2 version. Because of the rocking C frame design the blade has very little forward and back movement at the table level, but when cutting thicker materials, this rocking forward and back movement of the blade is more pronounced, but not usually a problem. It's this rocking motion that gives the saw a faster cutting action, and I prefer it when cutting larger and less delicate fret work.  It's blade clamps and tension adjustment are radically different, but not bad. They are just different, and not as easy to use.

This saw came out about 2 years before the DeWalt 788 was announced, and it was one of the top saws back then, but it's production life was short because of the introduction of the DeWalt 788.

Again, I still like and use my Q3 Delta saw, although it isn't my preferred saw. I would be all over that one at the price being asked, since I could use another saw for my students and at that price, it's a steal, if it is working.

If you want a faster cutting saw, this saw cuts faster than the Excalibur, DeWalt, and other saws available new today, especially if you are doing larger and less complicated fret work. It is every bit as accurate and will make a good second, back-up, or spare saw. that may just be ideal if you don't cut the tiny compound cut the tiny reindeer or cross ear rings like I do, but I have actually succeeded in making them on my Delta Q3 saw. It's just not as easy.

If that saw was on my side of the Country, I would be after it myself.

Charley

Charley, I just added a post to the end of this thread asking for anybody who might have an owners manual if I could get a copy. I see now that you have the type 1 so I guess you are the guy I'm talking to. Would be a great imposition to scan your manual and send me the file? If you don't have time or inclination, I will understand. I'm just anxious to find out as much about this saw I bought as possible. I can see now that I have it that it has a lot of miles on it. The two main bearings at the rear of the saw are both worn out so I will have to replace them before I do anything else. That seems to be where most of the wear is and lets the arms sort of "flop" around. The lower blade clamp seems hinky too so I want to try to figure out what is either worn or missing on it. It still clamps the blade as it should but it is just loose. I put a large number 12 blade in it to check it out and it runs up and down the rpm range but it definitely needs some tender loving care. I will consider it another hobby. Anyway, let me know if you can help me out.

 

[CharleyL]

I'll look for my type 1 manual, but it won't likely happen for a couple of days. I'll be working out of town with my #2 son and daughter-in-law this weekend. If I can find it I can scan it and send the pdf file to you.  

The table insert in the Q3 is the same as the ones sold for the Delta Band Saws, so one should be relatively easy to find. I think I bought a few HDPE un-cut inserts some years ago. If I can find them I'm willing to send you one.

Please keep me in mind if you decide to part your Q3 out. I'm not sure what I might want yet, but having a few spares for parts that might break on mine would be a good thing.

The slow start-up of this saw is a bit sick sounding, but my saw keeps running fine and it's about 20 years old now. If you keep the saw, you will get used to and accept the way that It starts.  I was once told that this was corrected in the type 2, but never got to play with a type 2 to find out for myself.

There is a little "skate key" type wrench that gets used to adjust the blade grips. You will need it, or a small metric wrench, for doing this as every time you change blade thickness the clamp will need adjustment. I keep mine held in place on the outside of the motor housing by the permanent magnet field of the motor. Try to make sure that you get this wrench with the saw, if you can.  Look for it magnetically stuck to the side of the motor case, as it might actually be there. If you don't find it, a metric nut driver of the right size should also work well. I would buy one of the right size and keep it with the saw, since it will be needed often.

In all the years that I have owned my Q3 saw, the only thing that ever broke was the bolts that go through the blade clamps. The "Skate Key" adjusts the stop nut on the end of these bolts. Within the first few hours of use I discovered that these bolts in my blade grips were stretching and bending into a curve. A call to Delta got me new bolts that were hard and I never had the problem again. If the ones in your blade clamps are bent, just replace them with the same type of  new metric  bolts and you will quite likely never have the problem again. I think the original bolts in mine may have been Chinese or at least they never saw heat treating and Delta customer service seemed very willing to send me new ones, so it was likely a common problem that they had run into before and were already prepared to help the new Q3 saw owners who likely all ran into this problem.

Charley

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, CharleyL said:

I'll look for my type 1 manual, but it won't likely happen for a couple of days. I'll be working out of town with my #2 son and daughter-in-law this weekend. If I can find it I can scan it and send the pdf file to you.  

The table insert in the Q3 is the same as the ones sold for the Delta Band Saws, so one should be relatively easy to find. I think I bought a few HDPE un-cut inserts some years ago. If I can find them I'm willing to send you one.

Please keep me in mind if you decide to part your Q3 out. I'm not sure what I might want yet, but having a few spares for parts that might break on mine would be a good thing.

The slow start-up of this saw is a bit sick sounding, but my saw keeps running fine and it's about 20 years old now. If you keep the saw, you will get used to and accept the way that It starts.  I was once told that this was corrected in the type 2, but never got to play with a type 2 to find out for myself.

There is a little "skate key" type wrench that gets used to adjust the blade grips. You will need it, or a small metric wrench, for doing this as every time you change blade thickness the clamp will need adjustment. I keep mine held in place on the outside of the motor housing by the permanent magnet field of the motor. Try to make sure that you get this wrench with the saw, if you can.  Look for it magnetically stuck to the side of the motor case, as it might actually be there. If you don't find it, a metric nut driver of the right size should also work well. I would buy one of the right size and keep it with the saw, since it will be needed often.

In all the years that I have owned my Q3 saw, the only thing that ever broke was the bolts that go through the blade clamps. The "Skate Key" adjusts the stop nut on the end of these bolts. Within the first few hours of use I discovered that these bolts in my blade grips were stretching and bending into a curve. A call to Delta got me new bolts that were hard and I never had the problem again. If the ones in your blade clamps are bent, just replace them with the same type of  new metric  bolts and you will quite likely never have the problem again. I think the original bolts in mine may have been Chinese or at least they never saw heat treating and Delta customer service seemed very willing to send me new ones, so it was likely a common problem that they had run into before and were already prepared to help the new Q3 saw owners who likely all ran into this problem.

Charley

Thanks a million Charley. No hurry on the manual. I would just like to have one. I have a manual for every power tool I own. It's funny you mentioned that skate key. I found it stuck to the motor as you said and wondered what it was for. Now, I'll have to figure out how to use it. I messed around with the saw for a while this afternoon. The one thing that is sad, to me, is that the light is missing. I don't know what to look for as it is just an empty hole in that arm. I will probably have to do some major "tightening up" of everything on the saw. I may never get as much use out of it as you have yours but I love tinkering with this stuff and if I can resurrect it, well that will just a plus under my name in Heaven. As to parting it out, if it comes to that, I will definitely keep you in mind. Ok, I hear the boss calling me to dinner. Gotta run. Thanks for all you do.

Ray

After doing some reading and communicating with Rick at Rick's Scrollsaw site, I have come to the conclusion that this saw is an early model of the type 1/2. It had a light at one time because the switch is still there but everything related to the light assy. is missing. 

Edited October 6, 2018 by octoolguy

[stoney]

Ray it appears I have given you bad information on the blade clamps.   Charley talks about having to use a allen wrench to adjust the blade clamps for different thickness blades.   Delta must have changed that feature on the newer style clamps.  The newer model clamps have a little knob on the side on the clamp for making the adjustment, which is much more convenient.  Sorry. 

[CharleyL]

Just got a few moments to check back in. 

Glad you found the skate key. Mine is always on the motor when I'm not using it. If I put it back there, it never disappears.  No Allen wrench is needed if the clamp bolts are original or the same as original. 

To open and close the blade clamps there is a lever on the side of them. How tight the blade clamps hold when a blade is installed is determined by how you adjust the blade clamp bolt  by turning the nut with the skate key. You can only make this skate key adjustment with the blade clamp open. You want the clamp to hold the blade tightly, yet you don't want to have to push on the clamp lever so hard that you break it. The adjustment with the skate key needs to be in increments of about 1/16 of a revolution at a time and then a test to see if you can operate the lever and grip the blade well. When you change to a different thickness blade is the only time you will need to make the skate key adjustment and both the upper and lower blade clamps will need about the same amount of adjustment. The only other time is if the blade pulls out of the clamp because it wasn't tight enough. If the blade slips out, make certain that the clamp jaws are clean. I wipe mine off with a solvent and a Q tip if I suspect that oil or wax has gotten on them.

Adjusting the blade tension works about the same way. The vertical cap screw bolt can be turned with your fingers, so no wrench or skate key in necessary, but you adjust the bolt inward to increase the blade tension and loosen it to reduce the blade tension. There is a lever on the left side to apply or release the blade tension much like the blade clamp lever. With the lever up and the tension released, you can turn the tension cap screw in or out a few turns, and then use the lever to apply and release the blade tension. Again, practice helps you get it right. If you change blades or release either end of the blade to thread it through a hole in the work, try to get the blade re-clamped in the same position on the end of the blade, or this tension adjustment will be way wrong and you will have to make adjustments to get it right again.

The blade clamps and tension adjustments on the DeWalt saw are so much easier and faster to get right over this saw, and this is my main reason for preferring the DeWalt over the Delta Q3. The Q3 blade adjustments aren't bad, but definitely slower than making the same adjustments on the DeWalt. 

The blade front to back rocking motion is almost zero at table height, but is more severe as you get higher up when cutting thicker wood. The benefit is that this motion clears sawdust better and the saw cuts faster. The detriment is that when cutting thicker wood it will be more difficult to make sharp clean turns when doing finer patterns. Again, not really bad, just different.

It sounds from your comments about the rear bearings that they are likely bad. I have never had this problem, so I can't be of much help here when it comes to how to get them out and replace them.

You should be able to find numbers on these bearings to get replacements that fit. I would take the numbers from the bearing to a bearing specialty store, either in person or online and buy the replacements.Do a Yellow Pages for Power Transmission or Bearing Supply stores to find one near you. Companies like Fastenal and industrial suppliers like McMaster Carr will likely have them too, but at a higher price. Ereplacements or other tool parts companies probably will also have original replacements, but again at higher prices. There are many grades of every bearing and going to a bearing specialty shop will let you describe the use (back and forth over partial revolution at moderate speeds up to about 3000 rpm). If they suggest a higher quality bearing, compare the price difference and then make your choice. You may get a much better bearing for almost no increase in price. Bearings are like shoes. They are made in the same sizes and models by all of the manufacturers, but there are different quality levels and accessory variations available for each. Tool manufacturers frequently buy the cheapest bearings that they can get that fills the need to keep the tool selling price as low as possible. A better bearing lubricant for the purpose, or a better seal to keep dust out often causes very little, maybe 10%, increase in price over the original bearing price.

I've got to back to work. I'm making and selling cotton candy. We are offering almost 30 gourmet flavors. Today the pumpkin spice(bright orange) seems to be selling very well. I use a machine that blows the cotton up vertical in a small diameter column, so I can stand several feet away from the machine and wind it up on the cone. It makes for a fun show for the customers.  Here is a video of a similar machine, but not the one that I'm using. I like this video better.  

 

The machine and demonstrator in this video is Russian, but he does a nice demonstration.

 

Charley

 

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, CharleyL said:

Just got a few moments to check back in. 

Glad you found the skate key. Mine is always on the motor when I'm not using it. If I put it back there, it never disappears.  No Allen wrench is needed if the clamp bolts are original or the same as original. 

To open and close the blade clamps there is a lever on the side of them. How tight the blade clamps hold when a blade is installed is determined by how you adjust the blade clamp bolt  by turning the nut with the skate key. You can only make this skate key adjustment with the blade clamp open. You want the clamp to hold the blade tightly, yet you don't want to have to push on the clamp lever so hard that you break it. The adjustment with the skate key needs to be in increments of about 1/16 of a revolution at a time and then a test to see if you can operate the lever and grip the blade well. When you change to a different thickness blade is the only time you will need to make the skate key adjustment and both the upper and lower blade clamps will need about the same amount of adjustment. The only other time is if the blade pulls out of the clamp because it wasn't tight enough. If the blade slips out, make certain that the clamp jaws are clean. I wipe mine off with a solvent and a Q tip if I suspect that oil or wax has gotten on them.

Adjusting the blade tension works about the same way. The vertical cap screw bolt can be turned with your fingers, so no wrench or skate key in necessary, but you adjust the bolt inward to increase the blade tension and loosen it to reduce the blade tension. There is a lever on the left side to apply or release the blade tension much like the blade clamp lever. With the lever up and the tension released, you can turn the tension cap screw in or out a few turns, and then use the lever to apply and release the blade tension. Again, practice helps you get it right. If you change blades or release either end of the blade to thread it through a hole in the work, try to get the blade re-clamped in the same position on the end of the blade, or this tension adjustment will be way wrong and you will have to make adjustments to get it right again.

The blade clamps and tension adjustments on the DeWalt saw are so much easier and faster to get right over this saw, and this is my main reason for preferring the DeWalt over the Delta Q3. The Q3 blade adjustments aren't bad, but definitely slower than making the same adjustments on the DeWalt. 

The blade front to back rocking motion is almost zero at table height, but is more severe as you get higher up when cutting thicker wood. The benefit is that this motion clears sawdust better and the saw cuts faster. The detriment is that when cutting thicker wood it will be more difficult to make sharp clean turns when doing finer patterns. Again, not really bad, just different.

It sounds from your comments about the rear bearings that they are likely bad. I have never had this problem, so I can't be of much help here when it comes to how to get them out and replace them.

You should be able to find numbers on these bearings to get replacements that fit. I would take the numbers from the bearing to a bearing specialty store, either in person or online and buy the replacements.Do a Yellow Pages for Power Transmission or Bearing Supply stores to find one near you. Companies like Fastenal and industrial suppliers like McMaster Carr will likely have them too, but at a higher price. Ereplacements or other tool parts companies probably will also have original replacements, but again at higher prices. There are many grades of every bearing and going to a bearing specialty shop will let you describe the use (back and forth over partial revolution at moderate speeds up to about 3000 rpm). If they suggest a higher quality bearing, compare the price difference and then make your choice. You may get a much better bearing for almost no increase in price. Bearings are like shoes. They are made in the same sizes and models by all of the manufacturers, but there are different quality levels and accessory variations available for each. Tool manufacturers frequently buy the cheapest bearings that they can get that fills the need to keep the tool selling price as low as possible. A better bearing lubricant for the purpose, or a better seal to keep dust out often causes very little, maybe 10%, increase in price over the original bearing price.

I've got to back to work. I'm making and selling cotton candy. We are offering almost 30 gourmet flavors. Today the pumpkin spice(bright orange) seems to be selling very well. I use a machine that blows the cotton up vertical in a small diameter column, so I can stand several feet away from the machine and wind it up on the cone. It makes for a fun show for the customers.  Here is a video of a similar machine, but not the one that I'm using. I like this video better.  

 

The machine and demonstrator in this video is Russian, but he does a nice demonstration.

 

Charley

 

Thank you Charley for taking the time to write all that. The bearings that are bad are ball bearings and one of them is missing some of the balls. I am going to see if I can find a sealed bearing in the same size/specs. From what you wrote regarding the blade clamps, I understand how they work. But the bottom clamp seems to be either missing some parts or is just badly worn. It grips a number 12 blade quite well. That's what I installed for a test run because it is big and tough. This is going to be a fun project but I can't spend too much money on it. If I don't keep it, I don't want to get buried in the cost. Once again, I'll keep you in mind if I decide to just part it out.

[OCtoolguy]

Charley, just out of curiosity, what pieces and parts would you be most interested in from this saw? I'm getting a bit of negative feedback from the cook and I might have to let it go. She maintains that I have enough stuff around to fix and I should concentrate on cutting wood instead of dragging home more stuff to "fix".

 

[Rockytime]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

 <SNIP> I'm getting a bit of negative feedback from the cook and I might have to let it go. She maintains that I have enough stuff around to fix and I should concentrate on cutting wood instead of dragging home more stuff to "fix".

 

What does your wife mean by "more stuff?" That saw is a treasure and she needs to be made aware of it. "Dragging things home," those are obnoxious words. It should say you acquired things. But what the heck do I know?

[OCtoolguy]

26 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

What does your wife mean by "more stuff?" That saw is a treasure and she needs to be made aware of it. "Dragging things home," those are obnoxious words. It should say you acquired things. But what the heck do I know?

Obviously you don't know my wife. She doesn't understand the beauty of Junk like I do. I see something that used to be beautiful and it just needs some TLC. But, she sees something that should be in the scrap yard.

 

[kmmcrafts]

In my 25 years of marriage.. this sound like a case of one of the honey does on the list of things broke that she needs repaired has taken a back burner for way too long... Ray.. you may need to double check that list. 

I know what you mean though on projects.. I've got 2 old 1968 John Deere lawn / garden tractors.. One I brought home to restore back in 2006.. I have it torn down to just a frame.. have the frame and much of the other pieces all sandblasted and repainted.. most of which the tractor just needs reassembled.. The motor needs gone through yet.. anyway I stopped messaging with it back about 2007-8.. bought the second one that ran and worked good but looked rough.. used it for a few years but then the steering gearbox broke on it.. I actually have a spare.. took that tractor apart to replace the box.. and well.. that's where that one sits.. My business / hobby of scroll work and messing with saws.. seems to take most of my time. Not to mention I have 5 old Wheel Horse brand tractors in various stages of repairs too... Been thinking about selling the whole tractor collection and buying more wood shop tools.. LOL 

My grandpa was cleaning out his shop one day and throwing a lot of stuff out.. I asked about why he was throwing out good stuff... he said... If I haven't used / fixed it or plan to use or fix it in the next 6 months.. It's not worth the storage space.. 

This stuff I have... thankfully I have another hole shop just for the tractors and their parts etc.. so it's not taking up valuable shop space.. but plenty of moneys worth of tractors implements and parts that'd buy a few wood shop tools I'd really like to get.. Then free up that shop for... More wood stuff LOL      

[kmmcrafts]

8 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Obviously you don't know my wife. She doesn't understand the beauty of Junk like I do. I see something that used to be beautiful and it just needs some TLC. But, she sees something that should be in the scrap yard.

 

Yeah, I know how that is Ray.. I'm the same way.. I hate seeing people throw out stuff that just needs minor repairs etc.. I've bought a lot of older Delta saws and repaired them and resold.. cars trucks tractors lawn mowers etc.. used to be a fun little side business.. but then it got around and before I knew it.. friends and family would just start picking up stuff and dropping it off.. I had enough of that.. I like picking my own stuff to repair.. luckily I also like to haul a load of scrap every now and then.. because a lot of it ended up at the metal recyclers.. They pay out by the pound.. and that place is a gold mine for people like you and me... I always hauled back about as much as I took in   But it was good junk..    

[amazingkevin]

I've had 2 Craftsman contractor c-arm saws and loved them both. Circuit board went on one from a bad foot pedal And i still have the second one as a back up saw. Very quiet saw! I'd jump on it for thirty or I wouldn't be able to sleep !

[OCtoolguy]

16 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

In my 25 years of marriage.. this sound like a case of one of the honey does on the list of things broke that she needs repaired has taken a back burner for way too long... Ray.. you may need to double check that list. 

I know what you mean though on projects.. I've got 2 old 1968 John Deere lawn / garden tractors.. One I brought home to restore back in 2006.. I have it torn down to just a frame.. have the frame and much of the other pieces all sandblasted and repainted.. most of which the tractor just needs reassembled.. The motor needs gone through yet.. anyway I stopped messaging with it back about 2007-8.. bought the second one that ran and worked good but looked rough.. used it for a few years but then the steering gearbox broke on it.. I actually have a spare.. took that tractor apart to replace the box.. and well.. that's where that one sits.. My business / hobby of scroll work and messing with saws.. seems to take most of my time. Not to mention I have 5 old Wheel Horse brand tractors in various stages of repairs too... Been thinking about selling the whole tractor collection and buying more wood shop tools.. LOL 

My grandpa was cleaning out his shop one day and throwing a lot of stuff out.. I asked about why he was throwing out good stuff... he said... If I haven't used / fixed it or plan to use or fix it in the next 6 months.. It's not worth the storage space.. 

This stuff I have... thankfully I have another hole shop just for the tractors and their parts etc.. so it's not taking up valuable shop space.. but plenty of moneys worth of tractors implements and parts that'd buy a few wood shop tools I'd really like to get.. Then free up that shop for... More wood stuff LOL      

Kevin, I'm too old and worn out to do all that heavy stuff anymore. And, in December we'll celebrate 49 years of wedded bliss. The one thing that I have figured out though, when our last child left the nest in 1988 I became her "fifth" child. And I get treated that way most of the time. Not saying that's a bad thing, just irritating. Love her to death and wouldn't trade for anybody else. We just have different ways of seeing things. Like old saws.

 

[CharleyL]

Ray,

As promised I found my Delta Q3 manual, but since I'm using a 3 week old computer, I don't have all of the software installed and working to be able to create a pdf file yet, nor am I very good at using Windows 10 yet (I actually hate it).  So I've made you a copy of the manual and found the spare HDPE zero clearance insert, so everything is together in an envelope and ready to send.

Please PM your mailing address and I'll get it out to you.

As for the parts that I would want of your Q3, I'll have to think about that a little, but I would rather see you fix the saw up and use it. Then at least, you could make her something with it to prove that it isn't junk after all.

My wife starts in on me when I have something that I haven't used in a while. Then, to her, it needs to go. But I have so many hobbies (toys) that it's difficult for me to keep them all in use all of the time. Each time that I take on a new venture or drag something that doesn't work home I get negative comments for a while too. You can't just bring something home and then let it sit. It has to be top priority to get it usable again, so you can prove to her that it isn't junk after all. We have been married for almost 56 years, so we know each other very well. As long as I can make good use of it she gives up complaining quickly. Some years after we were married, she told one of her friends that one of the reasons why she married me was "because I could fix anything". I overheard this and remind her of it when the need arises. She  also grumbles sometimes when I need a new expensive tool, but never stops me from buying it, and I'm careful not to buy anything that financially impacts our family life. I too raised 4 kids, but one is still with us due to being handicapped.

I'm always dragging junk home and fixing it. You should have seen the 1987 Cushman Truck when I brought it home 5 years ago. It had been sitting on the edge of a pine forest, untouched for 13 years. It had trees growing up through the pedal holes in the floor board, 4 flat tires, and spider webs in layers from the floor up to the roof inside. Even the door hinges were rusted so bad that it took 1/2 hour and 1/4 can of WD-40 to free them so the doors would open and shut,  but I fixed it up and now I maintain my 3+ acres and 1,500' of lake shore with it.

With my heart problems and knee replacements, walking any distance on uneven ground is very hard for me. So I use the little truck to move my tools, me, and even small amounts of dirt, fertilizer, seed, etc. to wherever I need to do anything, kind of like some home owners use a wheel barrow. It also takes me to Lowes, Walmart, or to a local burger joint for lunch sometimes, because they are all close and I can reach them on the back roads. I have flashing yellow lights and a tractor slow moving vehicle sign on it, so the police don't bother me. It's considered to be farm machinery or a golf cart and both are allowed on secondary roads here in NC without requiring a license plate. The police have followed me several times, and then passed, giving  me a friendly wave as they go by. 

Charley

Edited October 8, 2018 by CharleyL

[OCtoolguy]

3 hours ago, CharleyL said:

Ray,

As promised I found my Delta Q3 manual, but since I'm using a 3 week old computer, I don't have all of the software installed and working to be able to create a pdf file yet, nor am I very good at using Windows 10 yet (I actually hate it).  So I've made you a copy of the manual and found the spare HDPE zero clearance insert, so everything is together in an envelope and ready to send.

Please PM your mailing address and I'll get it out to you.

As for the parts that I would want of your Q3, I'll have to think about that a little, but I would rather see you fix the saw up and use it. Then at least, you could make her something with it to prove that it isn't junk after all.

My wife starts in on me when I have something that I haven't used in a while. Then, to her, it needs to go. But I have so many hobbies (toys) that it's difficult for me to keep them all in use all of the time. Each time that I take on a new venture or drag something that doesn't work home I get negative comments for a while too. You can't just bring something home and then let it sit. It has to be top priority to get it usable again, so you can prove to her that it isn't junk after all. We have been married for almost 56 years, so we know each other very well. As long as I can make good use of it she gives up complaining quickly. Some years after we were married, she told one of her friends that one of the reasons why she married me was "because I could fix anything". I overheard this and remind her of it when the need arises. She  also grumbles sometimes when I need a new expensive tool, but never stops me from buying it, and I'm careful not to buy anything that financially impacts our family life. I too raised 4 kids, but one is still with us due to being handicapped.

I'm always dragging junk home and fixing it. You should have seen the 1987 Cushman Truck when I brought it home 5 years ago. It had been sitting on the edge of a pine forest, untouched for 13 years. It had trees growing up through the pedal holes in the floor board, 4 flat tires, and spider webs in layers from the floor up to the roof inside. Even the door hinges were rusted so bad that it took 1/2 hour and 1/4 can of WD-40 to free them so the doors would open and shut,  but I fixed it up and now I maintain my 3+ acres and 1,500' of lake shore with it.

With my heart problems and knee replacements, walking any distance on uneven ground is very hard for me. So I use the little truck to move my tools, me, and even small amounts of dirt, fertilizer, seed, etc. to wherever I need to do anything, kind of like some home owners use a wheel barrow. It also takes me to Lowes, Walmart, or to a local burger joint for lunch sometimes, because they are all close and I can reach them on the back roads. I have flashing yellow lights and a tractor slow moving vehicle sign on it, so the police don't bother me. It's considered to be farm machinery or a golf cart and both are allowed on secondary roads here in NC without requiring a license plate. The police have followed me several times, and then passed, giving  me a friendly wave as they go by. 

Charley

You sound exactly like the perfect neighbor for a guy like me. I wish I lived in a more rural area but my wife won't hear of it now that we are advanced ages. I will just have to be happy with where I am. The weather is great. That's about all though. Oh, and we have great neighbors here too. 
I have decided to either part out the saw or resell it. I have been made aware of the fact that "life is short" and "we don't have time to restore everything that you drag home". I guess maybe she is right. I really didn't need another project. If I can get my $30 dollars back and the cost of shipping, I'll be happy. I'll cart off what doesn't sell to a scrap yard. If you decide you want any of it, let me know. Thanks for the offer to send what you have.