Painting and Glueing scrollwork

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I posted this question in the painting thread but was afraid it may get lost there so I started a new thread. A couple people answered there and I thank them.

 

This question has to do with painting scroll work and glueing.

Those that paint their scrollwork, do you paint it before you glue?? Or do you glue and then paint?? Basically the question is designed around layer work or box making and things of this nature. What type glue do you use and if it is a brand what number or formula is it?? I usually do not paint my work but I have recently made a few projects that have various layers and I want to use a painted backboard on them and thus the question. Thanks in advance.

[OCtoolguy]

I would have to think that gluing first would be the way to go as long as squeeze out is controlled. If it was staining, I'd say the opposite but paint will cover over glue and should stick to it. Just my two cents worth.

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

4 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I would have to think that gluing first would be the way to go as long as squeeze out is controlled. If it was staining, I'd say the opposite but paint will cover over glue and should stick to it. Just my two cents worth.

 

Ray I usually do not paint my work but I have a few plaques that will need backers and I would like to paint the backer and then glue the overlay on it. I am thinking ordinary Titebond II wood glue will work but if someone has used something more proven then I will try that. I may have to set up a few test pieces for this. I will be using flat paints and top coating with a satin lacquer. Some projects I will have have the ability to tape off certain areas so it would be wood to wood contact but some I will not be able to do this. So it would be wood on a painted surface. 

[Oldmansbike]

When I make one my signs I paint everything first and then glue it together. I use good old Elmers yellow wood glue and have never had any problem .

[kmmcrafts]

Several years back I tried gluing up a painted backer to one of the themed crosses that Sue May designed.. While it held together... some areas did pull apart and was clearly not the best bond.. It's been so long ago now so I couldn't tell you what glue I used.. It could have been the glue, not enough glue since I was trying to not get much if any squeeze out etc.. I don't know... I posted on one of the forums and the consensus was not to paint first.. if you can avoid it... Ever since that experience.. I stay away from painting.. and now pretty much just use natural wood colors for contrast.. Typically use Birch and Walnut together.. Still think on certain projects.. some color would look nice.. but I hate to have a customer contact saying the piece fell apart too...   

[oldhudson]

My philosophy is when possible paint or finish before assembly. I often mask areas of projects before finishing and think it's the easiest, I hate runs and sags. If you go back to the original thread the blue, pink and yellow were all sprayed before assembly and of course the numbers had to be sprayed before assembly. For glue on this type of project I've been using WELDBOND.  (not to be confused with Weldwood) It's kinda hard to find and I got my last bottle at Ace.  I couldn't find it at the big box stores.

[OCtoolguy]

I made a plaque for friends in Tennessee. The scrolled part was painted black and the backer board was painted white. They were both 5/16" thick BB. I didn't glue them at all. I just shot about 4 or 5 5/8" brads in from the backside. I never even thought about gluing them. Hmmmmmm!

 

[Roberta Moreton]

I always paint first. Then add the varnish. Cover the spots that will be glued with tape. Then when you are ready to glue it will work. 

[dgman]

I always paint the backer first. Then when dry, I use Aleen’s Tacky glue. It’s thick, so a little will go a long way. It dries clear if you have some squeeze out, but I always clean up the squeeze out with a tooth pick. It is very strong and dries fast. I have never had a failure with Aleen’s!

you can find it at any craft store like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby.

[OCtoolguy]

15 hours ago, dgman said:

I always paint the backer first. Then when dry, I use Aleen’s Tacky glue. It’s thick, so a little will go a long way. It dries clear if you have some squeeze out, but I always clean up the squeeze out with a tooth pick. It is very strong and dries fast. I have never had a failure with Aleen’s!

you can find it at any craft store like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby.

When I was a kid, I used to do Aleene's yard/lawn care. Big money. I got $30 a month to mow her lawn every week. And she had a huge yard.

 

[John B]

John,

I paint such things as back boards prior to gluing, and I sometimes painted individual pieces before gluing when I made toys. I just used PVA glue. eg standard wood glue. I would not paint prior to assembly pieces of furniture or structural items.

I would not attempt to glue pieces painted with oil paints to each other. I also used a flat or satin paints acrylic paints as these gave the glue something to grab onto and being water based, the same as the glue, I found that they adhered pretty good..
The deciding strength factor here was how well the paint stuck eg, no dust under it and a good undercoat.

Hope this gives a little food for thought.
cheers