Ruined A present for my Father in Law

[Macman]

2 hours ago, Scrappile said:

I would not toss that one.  You could cut the part off that holds the clock, cut a new one and glue it to the base.  You have plenty of meat there to glue to the sailor to the base base.  Coarse this is almost as much work as starting over, but would save some of it.  The base and clock could even be a contrasting pieces of wood.

Genius ! Thanks I will definitely use this idea. Thanks 

[RabidAlien]

Looks good!  Regarding the clock hole being off-center, have you thought about just using your scroll and shaving down the edges of the circle to put the clock back in the center?  Or use Scrappile's suggestion and replace the clock section.  No sense in letting a good cut (sailor section) go to waste!  Besides....any cut/drill is a good cut/drill if you can either a) use it or 2) learn from it!

[Macman]

38 minutes ago, RabidAlien said:

Looks good!  Regarding the clock hole being off-center, have you thought about just using your scroll and shaving down the edges of the circle to put the clock back in the center?  Or use Scrappile's suggestion and replace the clock section.  No sense in letting a good cut (sailor section) go to waste!  Besides....any cut/drill is a good cut/drill if you can either a) use it or 2) learn from it!

Hmmm I get what you are saying. I see there are clocks with bigger diameters. 

Awesome 

[RabidAlien]

16 hours ago, Macman said:

Hmmm I get what you are saying. I see there are clocks with bigger diameters. 

Awesome 

Actually, I was thinking about whittling down the outer edges of the clock.    But enlarging the interior for a larger clock body would work, too.  My bad, I didn't think about opening up the interior, or I would've been more specific.

[Charlie E]

Sorry about the slip up. Believe me, I know how you feel.  Looking good up till then. Nice looking piece of wood too.

[Bill WIlson]

Sorry about the mishap with the Forstner bit.  I'll just reiterate that a drill press is absolutely necessary when using Forstner bits.  Another thing you need to be cognizant of is the spindle speed.  Generally speaking, you want the drill press running at pretty slow speeds when using Forstner bits.  There are all sorts of charts available on-line, that give proper speeds for various bits.  I keep one hanging on the wall, next to my drill press.

This is the one I use, but there are others.

http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/pdf/speedchart.pdf

[Macman]

Made some progress today. New bit arrived and it cut through the wood like butter. Lesson learnt - buy cheap buy twice. 

Sanding time

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Ever since you shown that project I have been trying to figure out that wood type. Do you know what that wood is called??  My only guess was lacewood but not there. Nice recovery and lesson learned as you say. Thanks for showing.

[Bill WIlson]

6 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Ever since you shown that project I have been trying to figure out that wood type. Do you know what that wood is called??  My only guess was lacewood but not there. Nice recovery and lesson learned as you say. Thanks for showing.

I have some quartersawn Sycamore that looks a lot like that.

[Macman]

I have no idea what the species the wood is but I think  Bill may be right! 

Looking at images on google it looks very similar. 

[Heli_av8tor]

I'm no expert on wood species but that wood looks like some Iowa native sawn Sycamore I have.

Beautiful wood. I built a large chest of drawers out of it for my Granddaughter.

[meflick]

On 11/5/2018 at 9:17 AM, Bill WIlson said:

Sorry about the mishap with the Forstner bit.  I'll just reiterate that a drill press is absolutely necessary when using Forstner bits.  Another thing you need to be cognizant of is the spindle speed.  Generally speaking, you want the drill press running at pretty slow speeds when using Forstner bits.  There are all sorts of charts available on-line, that give proper speeds for various bits.  I keep one hanging on the wall, next to my drill press.

This is the one I use, but there are others.

http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/pdf/speedchart.pdf

Thanks for sharing that chart Bill.  I have printed it out, will laminate it and hang it next to our drill press for my use. 

[Scrappile]

If I were a betting man, I'd bet Sycamore also.

Nice looking project.

[bobscroll]

Thank you for the chart Bill, Your seafaring project looks real nice! Thank you for posting,

Bob 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Thanks I may have to check with my dealer and see if he carries any sycamore. That has some nice look to it. 

[kmmcrafts]

Just seen this post ( I don't look in this forum much ) and thought I'd share how I make my clocks... I use a tool ( not sure what they are called ) awl? It's like a short screw driver but is very pointed on the end.. I believe it's an awl.. and I center it with the dot or X that in on the pattern and make a tiny dent to mark the spot.. then I look to see it's actually in the center.. if so then I use the tool again and push it in for a deeper.. just helps in finding that little dipped area on my old eyes in finding the center.. Oh and yeah I drill the holes last.. some very fragile ones I sometimes will put the clock back into the original cutout board to help hold it in place.. 

Make sure to buy a high end forestner bit.. they make a world of difference.. I received a gift of a set of forestner bits and brand new out of the box was worst then the dull high end one LOL..     

[Lucky2]

Macman, instead of buying drills to make the clock holes, why don't you cut them out with your scrollsaw? That's how I do it, and I've never had an issue doing it that way.

Len

[kmmcrafts]

26 minutes ago, Lucky2 said:

Macman, instead of buying drills to make the clock holes, why don't you cut them out with your scrollsaw? That's how I do it, and I've never had an issue doing it that way.

Len

I've done some of the bigger ( wall clocks ) this way.. but only because the back side isn't visible to anyone else and ease of access to change time / battery... But I would rather not see a hole on the back side of a desk clock really.. Just my opinion I guess.. It is an option though for someone that doesn't make many clocks and don't really want to spend big money on a forestner bit...

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

14 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I've done some of the bigger ( wall clocks ) this way.. but only because the back side isn't visible to anyone else and ease of access to change time / battery... But I would rather not see a hole on the back side of a desk clock really.. Just my opinion I guess.. It is an option though for someone that doesn't make many clocks and don't really want to spend big money on a forestner bit...

I too agree with this. I do what I can to not see the hole in the back. Some of the 2-3/4" inserts you have to drill all the way through but I still use a forstner bit. I just had to order a 42mm bit a couple days ago because of some inserts I have. Now I have used these inserts before but I either must have cheated the smaller bit to ream the edges of I had that bit somewhere but it is not to be found again. Hate when that happens and the memory does not work. 

[Macman]

7 hours ago, Lucky2 said:

Macman, instead of buying drills to make the clock holes, why don't you cut them out with your scrollsaw? That's how I do it, and I've never had an issue doing it that way.

Len

Hi Len. 

I didn’t want the hole all the way through the piece. If it was a wall hanging clock then that what I would probably do. 

[Roberta Moreton]

I used a Forstner Bit to drill a hole for a clock without a drill press once. Cost me 8 stitches in my right hand. Don’t do that!

[tomsteve]

On 11/7/2018 at 8:40 AM, Bill WIlson said:

I have some quartersawn Sycamore that looks a lot like that.

thats definately qs sycamore. i dont think theres another north american wood that gets the specks/rays like it does.