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Finished but !!


Foxfold

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I have finished the plaque that I showed before, but the finish isn't quite as good as I'd like.

I used a spray varnish, but obviously didn't get it quite right. May I ask how you all get that 'perfect' finish I always see on this forum ?

There's a 'run' on the right and it's not quite as 'shiny' as I'd thought it would be.

Or am I being ''too picky''  🤔

TonyPlaque.jpg

Edited by Foxfold
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Simplest and quickest answer to your question is to use several, light coats of finish.  Allow adequate time between coats to dry, as per the instructions on the can.

Light coats will better prevent runs.  The first few coats will seal the wood and several more will build a film finish.  If you want shiny, use a product with a high gloss sheen.  It should say right on the can, whether it's high gloss, semi-gloss or satin.

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Bill has the right process for applying the finish, but what may be equally important is how smooth you sand the wood.  The finer the last grit of sandpaper, the shinier the finish will be.  To get a high gloss finish, sand to at least 320, sanding with the grain by hand on the last sanding.  Also, a light scuff sanding between coats with 400 grit or finer will help.  Be sure to wipe all the dust off with a tack rag or vacuum cleaner after sanding.

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I prefer Danish oil and the dipping method as well. But if I am top coating it is always with Lacquer and not poly. With lacquer no need to sand between coats and dries quickly so adding coats can all be done in a day. I have been using satin alot these days but have done things with gloss as well. I agree about the sanding but I only go to 220 grit and find this to do well for me. Good luck.

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only you can say whether youre too picky or not. as for the uneven sheen, that could be the finish soaking in to different areas a bit. ive had that happen and just needed a few more coats. 

when im sanding i dont bother sanding between coats. just spray the next coat when the last coat is tacky. let that dry,sand with 400-600 just enough to denib, then topcoat.

one other thing- on something like that i spray with it  laying flat.

 

one other thing:

satin finishes do wonders. they can hide little defects in the finish. gloss amplifies them.

Edited by tomsteve
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Brenda,
Don't be disappointed, finishing takes a while to master, It is actually a trade ion Aust with a 4 year apprenticeship.
Using pressure pac cans( I am assuming this is what you used) requires a little practice. Not to close as you flood the piece and risk runs, to far away and you get over spray eg some of the contents dries prior to hitting the piece and makes the finish feel rough and flat. For a piece like yours above I would lay it flat on a bench, ( Place a piece of timber on the bench first with a few nails through it facing up so that your piece can sit on the nail points) then give it a "wet coat" turning it a few times. When dry cut back with 240 -320 paper and give it another wet coat.
Remembering that the finish is only as good as the preparation. So before any finish is applied, sand up to 240 -320 grit paper making the timber as smooth and scratch free as possible.
Hope you can make head or tail out of this.
Cheers

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