OCtoolguy Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I have used "super" glue for many years in both the very thin state and also the thicker type. I have never used any of the accelerator though. Can any of you offer any advice on what you use as to type, brand, etc.? Actually, I have never been to any of the hardware stores and found any of the accelerator types. Where do you buy them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I buy mine at a woodwork shop. Woodcraft, Klingspor’s etc. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredfret Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Hobby lobby, any rc hobby shop carries several types of ca glue and accelerator OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Is there more than one kind of C/A glue and if so, what are the differences? I'm just a bit confused over the whole thing. I bought a bottle of Gorilla super glue not knowing it was more of a gel and is a bit slow to cure. I don't know if accelerator will work with it or not. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAC1961 Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) I buy fairly large (probably 8-12 oz) pump bottles of Starbond from Amazon. I've never used any of their CA products, but I've used epoxy from Bob Smith Industries and been very happy with it. (also available on Amazon) As far as I know, accelerator works with all varieties of CA. BTW, I just had a container of gel CA that wouldn't set up without accelerator. I looked at the date on the bottom and decided that "2014" meant it was no longer good, lol. Edited November 25, 2018 by JAC1961 Added thought OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) Well Ray I can add some insight to this question if I know what you are using it for. In the Pen turning world CA is a highly used as a finishing top coat that is super clear and hard and durable and that is why pen turners love it. The accelerator is used quite often by some which enables them to apply multiple coats in one sitting. I do not like it because I feel it makes the CA brittle but with that said you can not mix accelerators with any CA. You should buy the accelerator specific to that CA. There are many types and brands of CA on the market and all claim to be the best. As far as types and viscosity goes, there is thin, med, and thick. There is flexible CA which is gaining traction in the pen turning world because pen blanks are so thin and being wood it still moves no matter how you seal it. There is odorless which is a bit more expensive but for those that either have an allergy for CA fumes (they are potent) or you develop one over time. What helps is a good ventilation system when working with CA. No not all CA glue is the same but again depends on what you are doing then maybe any brand or viscosity will be good. Again the purpose of the accelerator is to have the CA dry faster. By the way the spray can version is much better than the spray bottles. It is a finer mist which again is important in the pen world. In your world it may not make a difference. I have been using Satellite City CA for a long time and love it. But I use it for segmenting and finishing pens only. I never use it in woodworking. Too many better glues there. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=satellite+city+ca+glue&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78477712763671&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_30hb6owwie_e I buy mine direct from the company and get a bit cheaper that way. If you have more specific questions I probably can get more detailed. Edited November 25, 2018 by JTTHECLOCKMAN NC Scroller and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) ray, ive been using bob smith ca for years now and have yet to use an accelerator. ive read they work great at speeding up the acceleration time but i find patience works good,too. basically,one side is sprayed with the accelator and the ca is applied to the other ive read its possible to make a DIY accelerator,too.however i think it would be wise to keep glue and accelator brands from the same company. oh- and if you have an rc car,plane,boat,etc type hobby shop, you can probably find them there. Edited November 25, 2018 by tomsteve OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Thank you all. I have had a quick little tutorial here. I only asked because I'm going to be assembling my latest basket. It has 7 layers plus the top and bottom. The first one I made, I used aliphatic resin, (wood glue) and I used it very sparingly but I still got a tiny bit of squeeze out. I thought this time I might try using CA glue and the accompanying accelerator. But now you all have me wondering if that is the best way to go. I have never used CA for any of my projects other than to fix something that either broke or split. I am going to attach a pic of what I'm doing. You've all seen it before but a pic is worth a thousand words. Somebody else said that once but I'll be darned if I recall who it was. Thanks again, everybody. I love you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Won't tell you what to do but will say I make many items with that technique of ring stacking and the only glue I ever used was Titebond original or Titebond II Never had one come apart yet. CA is too brittle for that stuff. Just my opinion. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 I agree with JT about being too brittle. I use Aleen’s Tacky glue. It sets up a lot faster than Titebond. I have never had a failure! danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 I am using Titebond III. I just happened to buy it. What is the difference between Titebond I, II and III? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 16 minutes ago, Rockytime said: I am using Titebond III. I just happened to buy it. What is the difference between Titebond I, II and III? I have no idea but I'd bet that each one is a bit more expensive than the previous one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Perhaps that is the only difference. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Rockytime said: I am using Titebond III. I just happened to buy it. What is the difference between Titebond I, II and III? The differences are in open time and water resistance. Titebond III is waterproof and made for exterior use. Titebond II is typical yellow carpenter's glue and is water resistant and Titebond I is pretty much the same thing as white Elmer's glue. Any of these glues will work fine and are plenty strong for regular woodworking applications. Their website has a good explanation of the differences. http://www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three OCtoolguy and tomsteve 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Thanks Bill. Explains everything very well! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgiro Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 If you insist on using CA glue, of any density, for general wood working, I would advise against using the accelerator. CA glue dries very hard. CA glue with accelerator dries hard and very brittle. It isn't hard to break a CA glue joint where accelerator has been used. I have used the pair for temporary glue joints in many instances. Now, the only time I use the accelerator is on my pens or other turned accessory items. OCtoolguy and tomsteve 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAC1961 Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 I think the thing with CA glues and the use of accelerators is keeping things in perspective. I would not use it on any joint that would see much load, as in tables, chairs, bookcases, etc., but for small decorative items that are going to spend their lives sitting on a shelf or hanging on a wall it's plenty strong enough. I've used CA glue on lots of small things, almost always with accelerator, and have not experienced any failures. In fact I recently made a business card holder with a CA glued butt joint. Knocked it off onto a concrete floor, could tell from a dent that it hit on the glued, cantilevered piece and was perfectly fine. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 ray, something i suggest ya do is use some ca on some scrap pieces and see what ya think. i have pieces glued with ca that have taken a fall. the joint didnt fail but the piece still broke. heres a good explainaition of the differences in the titebond glues https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/differences-between-titebond-glues/ OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Instara people use the CA glue to put pieces together before attaching to backer board. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) I use this all the time cheap and very good works with all ca glues as well. forgot to say it take 15 seconds and your stuck. Roly https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mitrebond-Industrial-Superglue-Aerosol-Activator/dp/B00NP30V1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543254973&sr=8-1&keywords=mitre+bond+activator Edited November 26, 2018 by Phantom Scroller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Once again, thanks for all the great info. One more question.....will C/A work on wood after the wood has been stained or oiled? I know, I can do some experimentation but I thought it would be speedier to just ask. Thanks again folks. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 i havent had a problem using ca after stain. not sure about an oil finish,though OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAC1961 Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 1 hour ago, octoolguy said: Once again, thanks for all the great info. One more question.....will C/A work on wood after the wood has been stained or oiled? I know, I can do some experimentation but I thought it would be speedier to just ask. Thanks again folks. For cases where there's already a finish, I've had good luck with either E-6000 and polyurethane construction adhesive... crazy I know, not regular ole pva. Epoxy would probably another good choice. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgiro Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 2 hours ago, octoolguy said: Once again, thanks for all the great info. One more question.....will C/A work on wood after the wood has been stained or oiled? I know, I can do some experimentation but I thought it would be speedier to just ask. Thanks again folks. In a good wood joint, the glue actually soaks into the wood grains - making for a strong joint. When you use any glue on a finished piece, the glue is sticking to the finish, not the wood. While the glue/finish joint may be tight, the question to ask is - "How strong is the finish, varnish , paint, lacquer, poly?" Any pressure on the joint may cause a break in the finish, which can cause additional problems. Stains do not coat the wood like a finish will. So CA glue can still soak into the grains and, hopefully, make a strong joint. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.95d348aa76923344a5cab534cc1b3bc1.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.