Straight line

[jjammo1]

As stated in my previous post, I love my DW788, BUT! I can't seem to cut a straight line to save my life. I know I have alot of getting use to the new saw but it won't go straight for more than about a qurter inch before I have to really fight to stay straight. Is it just me?

[Brian]

how is your blade tension? are you cutting with or against the grain? With the grain can cause the blade to wander. Try going against the grain and have a new tight blade. Have your RPM turned down and go slow.

[amazingkevin]

Hi jjammo,Depending which blades you use some tend to vear to the right so you have to go with the flow and compensate for this .I'm sure this could be the problem .It was mine in the begining. It's caused from the way the blade was made .So feed your wood in on a slight angle and you'll do good!i know you said the blade is tight in the blade holder but how about guitar string tention tight,just a though to help not being there.

[Vector01]

Nope...The 788 is an agressive cutter. Depending on the thickness and wood type this will change how you cut. Blades in general tend to favor "drifting" either right or left depending how they were stamped. The teeth protrude a bit to either side depending on the brand. To help with this you can actually "hone" the side of the blade. Using a fine lap or arkansas stone while the saw is running, lightly place the stone against the side of the blade (teeth protruding) and hone down that side.

The other issue as mentioned is blade tension. You shouldn't have any forward or reverse play more than 1/8". I developed an ear so that I can pluck the blade to get a certain tone when it's tensioned properly. I had a an experience today where I was cutting and noticed the blade was was bowing left and right. I happened to look up at the tensioning lever and laughed. I never tensioned the blade...It happens

Another possibility is applying "side pressure" to either side of the work piece while feeding the wood to the blade. This will definitely cause the blade to "run off" track.

Pattern design and cutting line thickness can also affect your cutting (for me anyway) I cannot cut an all black pattern or thick line. For me I find a light gray fill with a black line against the white paper helps me keep on track. I find that a thin line .25 pixel on my patterns helps. The thin line makes you focus more on the line which causes your brain to transfer this information to your hands which in turn can make the minute adjustments needed to stay on line. This is nothing new...If you've ever hunted with a bow or rifle or did any target shooting this comes into play. Pick a spot on the target, not the whole target and you will be much more accurate.

[amazingkevin]

Interesting trick art,hone the side of the blade,I'd never have thought of the .Some blades i use are real wild about going to one side or the other .I have to compliment you on you dw788 info ,it's the best ever.

[jjammo1]

Thanks for all the good info. Glad to have all this expertise available. Mostly, I'm sure the main problem is me getting use to the new saw.

[two saws]

Its been a while since I have posted any replies with all the craft shows we have been doing and the putter coming down with a bunch of viruses and trojens which our program and the server is supposed to take care of.

Any way if you have not tryed using Flying Dutchman ultra reverse blades you should!! Like I said haven't been on line for a while so you may have already used them. Those blades will track so much better than other blades that it is almost unbeleiveable!! The one thing that I have noticed with them is that you can tell when they are starting to dull even though they are still cutting with out burning or requireing more pressure to feed them. My experence has been that they will be a little bit more difficult to stay on line. Once you change to a new blade you are back on track!! Give them a try and all of the advice of previous posts but once you get used to the new saw and what it wants you to do I am sure you will be making lots of sawdust!!!

Ervin

[malc]

When I started I couldn't cut either straight or in circles, then one day I found that I could, it just seems to come, keep going and it will come!

Malc

[jjammo1]

I just ordered a gross of the Ultra Reverse blades from Mikes. Sounds like the blade to use.

[FD Mike]

Like it has been said, most blades have a burr on the right side what makes them cut to the right. To stay on the line you have to move your wood some degree to the right. Don't fight the blade, it will not last long. Like the UR blades don't have that burr and will cut a lot more straight.

The scroll saw blades is not tamped at least the once who are made in Germany. They are milled, a roll cuts the teeth in the metal.

Mike

[Sawer]

I agree with all the above posts. The thing I found for myself is my right eye is dominant so I have to be sure my chair is moved to the left so my eye lines up with the blade better. This has work for a couple of people.

[cjswoodcrafts]

with me, on 3/4 in and smaller wood, the faster the rpms, the better the line or circle, when i tried it going slow i was all over the place, looked wavy. I got a 16 inch craftsman, (until tax time) and use craftsman blades, ( until tax time) then im gonna try out them flying dutchmen blades. Well thats my 2 cents worth

[Dan]

The FD Ultra Reverse and Olson Precision Ground are the only two brands that seem to cut straight for me. The FD seem to last longer and Mike is super fast in shipping.