Pegas Blade Failure??

[kmmcrafts]

Ray recently posted about putting blades in the wrong way and how he discovered their mark on the Pegas to decipher top of blades. I didn’t see what he was talking about and thought maybe he was seeing things or I wasn’t 

So today I used up my last of a gross of blades and had to open up my new gross pack. There is the mark Ray talked about. This must be a new thing for Pegas and I have mixed feelings about it. First off this notch they ground into the top end of the blade weakens the blade in this area. The very tip is also ground and tends to be pointed more so which likes to catch on the edges of stack cutting layers while trying to insert the blade. While I could get use to it being pointed I suppose but not to sure about the weak spot they created with that notched part.  I did break one blade in this area BUT it was dull and I was pushing it just finishing up my last cut. But I do see it as a weak spot. 

Not sure if you can see the difference in this picture of the new blade vrs the old one.

 

Hopefully My Brain Thawed Out And I Post In The Right Section This Time..

[JustLarry]

Here is link to post at SSWC on this same subject.  If I read the post correctly there is a flaw in the blade and they are being replaced?

https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw/tools-and-blades/860932-its-the-blades-not-me

Larry

[OCtoolguy]

Ok, now I'm confused. Well, at my age, that's nothing new. But what I have is a gross of blades that have that little cut-off corner at the end but I don't have a notch in any of my blades. And the cut-off corner is on the bottom. That's where I got mixed up in the first place being as how F/D has their dimple on the top I assumed that it would be the same with the Pegas blades. Now, I'm going to have to inspect what I have and make sure I didn't get any of the defective blades.

 

[Scrappile]

The dimple at the top of the Flying Dutchman blades is only on one type of their blades, I think.  I can't remember which type, do know that it is not on all their blades.  I have Pegas blades that are not cut square on the ends, not sure it is on both ends, but have not noticed a "notch" cut out the Kevin pictures.  The not square end is not a problem for me, I grind the top end of all my blades (even spiral) to a point.  Makes it much easier to feed them through the tiny drill holes.

[trackman]

The notch is a defect that is known about an they will replace if you need. I haven’t had any problems with breaking blades. But in 10 years I think I may have had two break. 

[kmmcrafts]

Okay, I've really got some goofed up blades.. @octoolguy Ray... those notches are not to mark end for end that's for sure.. I have been out sawing and run across some goofy blades.. the one was notched and pointed on both ends and another was like this on the bottom instead of the top.. The one that had it on both ends didn't last too long because I could tell right away that something wasn't right... Tension was too loose and I was using the Hawk and had been sawing right along and moved nothing... put the blade up by the old one again ( should have grabbed a picture ) and it was about 1/8" longer.. that pointed end on these from my experience is not really the end of the blade.. they are supposed to be cut flat but something must have messed up and got past quality control, LOL Now.. Pegas blades have always been a little on the longer side for me and I have to adjust the Hawk if I'm switching back and fourth from FD - Pegas..

Anyway.. these blades are definitely messed up.. now that I know I can probably get by with them by snipping the end off or something.. hoping my whole gross package isn't like this.. hard to tell when they are all bundled still.. and don't really want to open them all up, LOL.. 

[OCtoolguy]

42 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Okay, I've really got some goofed up blades.. @octoolguy Ray... those notches are not to mark end for end that's for sure.. I have been out sawing and run across some goofy blades.. the one was notched and pointed on both ends and another was like this on the bottom instead of the top.. The one that had it on both ends didn't last too long because I could tell right away that something wasn't right... Tension was too loose and I was using the Hawk and had been sawing right along and moved nothing... put the blade up by the old one again ( should have grabbed a picture ) and it was about 1/8" longer.. that pointed end on these from my experience is not really the end of the blade.. they are supposed to be cut flat but something must have messed up and got past quality control, LOL Now.. Pegas blades have always been a little on the longer side for me and I have to adjust the Hawk if I'm switching back and fourth from FD - Pegas..

Anyway.. these blades are definitely messed up.. now that I know I can probably get by with them by snipping the end off or something.. hoping my whole gross package isn't like this.. hard to tell when they are all bundled still.. and don't really want to open them all up, LOL.. 

That's truly weird. I had an open dozen blades from a batch that I had purchased from Bear Woods. I was at the end of them and opened up the new gross batch that I got from DnD. That's when I noticed that one end of all of them had that little weird end on them. I "assumed" that they were in the process of marking their blades as to which end was up like F/D does with the little dimple. Anyway, I put the first one in with that end up and started cutting. I notice right away that it was cutting ok but leaving a ragged edge on the pattern paper on top. It was getting hard to follow the line. Then the light bulb went on and I looked to see if the blade was in correctly. I found that it was upside down. That's when I posted about joining the club. So, I've got an entire gross of blades with the bottom end marked, not the top. None of my blades has that squared notch like you show in your pictures. So, it looks to me as though the sharpened wire was going through the cutting machine and getting cut at the wrong spot or something of that nature. I did contact DnD and told them about my blades. They wrote back and asked if I was having any trouble with breakage. I wrote back that I wasn't. They wrote back and told me to let them know if I did have any problems and they would swap out my blades with new ones and that I would have to send them the old blades. I will keep an eye on them but I don't see that there will be any breakage. At least from what I have been cutting. I was cutting red oak, stacked 4 high, 1/4 inch each ply for a total of one inch. Cut just fine once I figured out which end to use. Time will tell.

 

[Rockytime]

I ordered a bunch of Pegas blades from Bear Woods yesterday. Hopefully there will be no problems. I will be checking carefully.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Never saw a dimple in any FD blades that I use and Mike never mentioned this to me for I use to test his blades for him. I do the run the finger down the blade takes 1/2 second. Not cutting into my time for cutting. I sand all 4 ends of the blades every time too. #5 FD silver reverse best blade on the market in my eyes. I use that blade more than any other blade. Buy them by the gross. 

[dgman]

Flying Dutchman puts the dimple on top of the Ultra Reverse blades only. The reason is you can’t feel which end is up. There is a reverse tooth ever third tooth.

[kmmcrafts]

Dan is correct.. Only the FD Ultra Reverse blades  have the dimple... I remember when they started doing that dimple.. made things a lot easier... Those UR lades are my go to blades if I'm not using Pegas, LOL...  Used the TC ( two way cut) blades before I discovered the UR blades.. Funny because they are almost the same blade. yet they ( to my knowledge ) never put the dimple on them.. and running your finger down either one of these blades is not very doable the way the teeth design its.. as they have reverse teeth throughout the whole blade.. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Never use them so I had no idea. Sounds like a good solution. Not sure why you want a blade like that but i am sure there is a reason because they make them.  I guess a popular blade. For all those that need faster speeds here you go. I knew the ultras were milled differently than standard blades that are stamped.  

There is a blade out there for everybodies cutting habbits. Happy scrolling.

• Flying Dutchman scroll saw blades are 5" long and pinless.
• Milled blades, which makes a sharper cutting edge.
• Manufactured in Germany with top-grade high-quality hardened steel.
• Ultra Reverse blades are our top selling scroll saw blade. They have a unique design where every third tooth is reversed to prevent splintering on the underside of the project. They also have an aggressively fast cut, while at the same time being a smooth cut.

Edited November 30, 2018 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[Rockytime]

What is the difference between the Ultra Reverse and the Penguin Silver Reverse. I ordered a bunch of the Penguins.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

9 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

What is the difference between the Ultra Reverse and the Penguin Silver Reverse. I ordered a bunch of the Penguins.

Stamped VS milled to begin with. PSR only have reverse teeth about 1" up from bottom. UR have every 3 teeth.  Both do the same thing in that they prevent fuzzies and splintering on bottom. I do not use the UR but have used the ultras and they are sharper but I find for me control is key and I get better control with the Penguin. I am not a production scroller any more. I am a hobbiest. 

[Rockytime]

JT, it was you that turned me on to the PSR. They are terrific.

[scrollingforsanity]

I have been using the FD Penguin Silver reverse #1 for about three years. They work great for me. They don't last as long as some others but it is worth it to get a clean cut and be able to cut such small areas easily. I just received two gross from WTB and they are just not as sharp as the other lots I have received. They seemed dull right out of the package. Called them today and they said to try some for a couple more dozen. If they were the same and I wasn't pleased they would replace the whole two gross for me.  Sounds fair to me.  I use a few Pegas as well but for some reason I can't keep them on the line like I can FD. Must be old age.

grizz

Oregon.  

[kmmcrafts]

31 minutes ago, scrollingforsanity said:

I have been using the FD Penguin Silver reverse #1 for about three years. They work great for me. They don't last as long as some others but it is worth it to get a clean cut and be able to cut such small areas easily. I just received two gross from WTB and they are just not as sharp as the other lots I have received. They seemed dull right out of the package. Called them today and they said to try some for a couple more dozen. If they were the same and I wasn't pleased they would replace the whole two gross for me.  Sounds fair to me.  I use a few Pegas as well but for some reason I can't keep them on the line like I can FD. Must be old age.

grizz

Oregon.  

What Pegas type did you buy? The Pegas MFG blades are milled I believe.. so they do not have that slight couple of degrees off center cut like the FD blades do.. they do take a little getting used to at first... but once you do.. they are a long lasting sharp cutting blade.. 

I've tried to use the Penguin blades and they just cut too slow for my liking and makes me push the blade too hard.. they cut nice If I can hold my horses an take it easy... but that is just not what my cutting style is.. and not what I'm used to.. so I have a couple dozen of a few different sizes I've had now for 5-6 years.. LOL.. Probably should send them down the road to someone that'd use them.. LOL

[scrollingforsanity]

I bought the Pegas MFG in Size #1, #3 and #5 they are sharp and fast cutting. Maybe I need to spend more time with them. I watched you in a video the other day cutting ornaments and you were having no trouble at all. Maybe I am going to fast and get outside the line since I am used to pushing the FD blades. I will work with them Thanks for the feedback.

grizz

Oregon

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

8 hours ago, Rockytime said:

JT, it was you that turned me on to the PSR. They are terrific.

Probably. I have been using the Penguin silver reverse blades #5 for the longest time and they fit my speed and my comfort level. Going from a stamped blade to a milled blade will take some getting use to because the way they track. But like everything you can get use to them. I have no reason in the world to switch what I do now. Not sure how many more years I have left  on earth to enjoy scrolling and speed is not in my vocabulary. I leave that to the young guns. Go get em. I find myself saying this as I drive around town these days too. As I said they make so many different saws and blades and tools to fit anyone's needs and wants. Boy I remember the blade wars when pegas blades first came out. Wow the scrolling forums were always full of those wars. I can tell you some sad stories behind the scenes that would shock some. Oh well happy scrolling with whatever blade floats your boat. Try them all.