NLAlston Posted December 1, 2018 Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 Steve Good is one heck of an instructor, with a bunch of highly informative scroll saw YouTube videos. Just recently I watched his 'Scroll Saw Problem Solved' video, which really drew me in. This past summer, I really got my 'scroll sawing' feet wet by cutting out wooden portraits. I, typically, like to cut the 14"x11" and 16"x12" sizes, and had been bottom feeding. Those sizes (for me) do not lend themselves well, for bottom feeding, and I tried the top feeding approach. That, however, resulted in blade bendings, and breakages - as I could never seem to line up the feeding hole, of my wood piece, with the blade hole in my saw's table. Enter in Steve Good's very excellent idea for combating that. The other day, I ordered two of those cross style laser beam devices (the same that Steve used), and they arrived today. I took them, directly, to my shop, and set about marrying one of them to a 5v wall wart that I had laying around, here. I plugged the wart in, and the device came to life - but with a problem. It was NOT the cross beam style, that I had ordered, but the single line version. Steve mentioned that these lasers could be obtained in the cross beam, dot, and line versions. The first two, mentioned, would fit the bill, nicely. But the last one (to me) wouldn't have nearly the visual directness of the former two. I've written this for two reasons. One, is for the benefit of others, who may be interested in top feeding, and who may NOT have seen Steve Good's video which addresses how to conquer that top feeding issue. The second reason is to ask a question regarding such laser devices. I didn't know this, when I ordered mine, but Amazon had a no return policy on these items. They'll refund my money (which wasn't much, to begin with), and I could re-order. But, I might run into the same situation again. The situation is that I have a fair number of portraits to get done, before Christmas, so time is important. Does anyone know of anywhere else that I might be able to see about getting what I need, from? Advanced thanks. OCtoolguy, lawson56 and GrampaJim 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted December 1, 2018 Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 What kind of saw do you have? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NLAlston Posted December 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 16 minutes ago, NC Scroller said: What kind of saw do you have? Oh, I am so sorry. I have the DeWalt 788. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted December 1, 2018 Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 I’ve been top feeding for twenty years and have never had an issue with bending blades, however I do not use spiral blades. Just like anything else, a little practice goes a long way. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted December 1, 2018 Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 I only top feed. 1. When putting in a blade, clamp the top, lower the arm and make sure that the bottom of the blade is at (or VERY near) where you want it on the bottom clamp. 2. Lay your wood behind the table hole, raise the arm enough to be even with the top of the wood. Depending on the thickness of the wood, note how far the bottom of the blade is in front of the hole (closest to you). Now you will have a "feel" for when the blade is inserted through the wood, but hits the table, how far back to slide the wood. You will surprise yourself how quickly this come automatically to you. jerry OCtoolguy and Roberta Moreton 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NLAlston Posted December 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 13 minutes ago, jerry1939 said: I only top feed. 1. When putting in a blade, clamp the top, lower the arm and make sure that the bottom of the blade is at (or VERY near) where you want it on the bottom clamp. 2. Lay your wood behind the table hole, raise the arm enough to be even with the top of the wood. Depending on the thickness of the wood, note how far the bottom of the blade is in front of the hole (closest to you). Now you will have a "feel" for when the blade is inserted through the wood, but hits the table, how far back to slide the wood. You will surprise yourself how quickly this come automatically to you. jerry Thanks Jerry. I'll certainly give that a shot. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meflick Posted December 1, 2018 Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 I liked that Idea when Steve posted it but never followed up on it. I would suggest that before ordering, you reach out to the seller and ask them to confirm which type of beam it is. Then you will know for sure you are getting the one you need. Just tell them you need the cross haired beam for a specific reason. If they cannot or won't answer the question - then don't bother ordering from them. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted December 1, 2018 Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 A bottom feeder here. I thought the video was a little miss leading, in that it didn't account for all the costs. Should include the cost of the switch, and power supply, not everyone has those just lying around. Having said that, I don't think I would want to operate it with a foot switch. Maybe a simple toggle switch. one foot switch under my saw at a time is enough. I would want mine stationary mounted that would move with the saw, My saw is on casters and gets moved, I don't think I would like to have to "zero" in the cross hairs each time I go to scroll.. I think I could figure out a way to mount it with the saw. However, I would like to try it sometime. I am a low down, bottom feeder, and always will be on my Hegner, but I would like to be able to do it either way on my Seyco saw. Just like I like to be able to scroll with flat blades and those "nasty" spiral blades. I have yet to master top feeding a 3/0 or 2/0 size blade, through a hole drilled with a #70 bit, trough the work piece, through a zero clearance insert to the bottom clamp. Guess I am just not coordinated enough to accomplish that. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NLAlston Posted December 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Scrappile said: A bottom feeder here. I thought the video was a little miss leading, in that it didn't account for all the costs. Should include the cost of the switch, and power supply, not everyone has those just lying around. Having said that, I don't think I would want to operate it with a foot switch. Maybe a simple toggle switch. one foot switch under my saw at a time is enough. I would want mine stationary mounted that would move with the saw, My saw is on casters and gets moved, I don't think I would like to have to "zero" in the cross hairs each time I go to scroll.. I think I could figure out a way to mount it with the saw. However, I would like to try it sometime. I am a low down, bottom feeder, and always will be on my Hegner, but I would like to be able to do it either way on my Seyco saw. Just like I like to be able to scroll with flat blades and those "nasty" spiral blades. I have yet to master top feeding a 3/0 or 2/0 size blade, through a hole drilled with a #70 bit, trough the work piece, through a zero clearance insert to the bottom clamp. Guess I am just not coordinated enough to accomplish that. Thanks for responding. Yes, I am sure that the cost for associated items, regarding Steve's setup, might prove to be issues for some, but I happened to have two foot switches, already, as well as the required voltage wall wart. Like you, I'd prefer to have the device mounted directly on my saw, and will work towards achieving that aim - once I have zeroed in on the right laser. You gave me something to think about when you mentioned using a toggle switch, instead of a foot switch. I think I'd like THAT idea much better. About bottom-feeding, I'd have to say that it is a feeding manner that I AM comfortable with - WHEN project sizes permit. However (and as had already been mentioned, in my initial post), I like doing larger sized portraits. In fact, I want to do some three-foot length portraits. Angling up these portraits, for bottom feeding the blade through, would not fall within an easy action. And that is the reason why I am so interested in setting up with the laser light aid. I'll post back, with how I make out. Nathan Edited December 1, 2018 by NLAlston Added my name. OCtoolguy and Scrappile 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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