Blade for 3D cutting

[rjweb]

Good evening,

i am Trying to cutting some 3D ornaments, but I was using a fd ultra reverse #5, but it just wants to jump up and down, I am using 1 1/2 inch poplar, any suggestions for blade type and size and what wood I should be using, thx in advance, RJ 

[OCtoolguy]

I just cut some mahogany in 3/4 x 1 1/2 and I used Pegas #5 mgt. I love these blades. They seem to be good for most anything so far. But, I'm a newbie so take it for what it's worth. I had to cut 8 of the same thing in compound 3-D cuts. Here is what I was cutting.

 

 

Edited December 3, 2018 by octoolguy

[fredfret]

Any blade with reverse teeth will tend to lift the work. For 3d you do n I think need the reverse teeth as the bottom of the work is not finish side. I use fd 5 non reverse.

[Paladin]

My go to for thick cutting like that would be the FD Polar #5.

[Sycamore67]

I use FD Polar #5 or #7.

[rjweb]

Thx for all your suggestions I will give the fd polar a try, RJ 

[bandaideman]

I use Polar on thicker but some 3D is thinner like bird houses or the birds to go on them I use a # 5 reverse. The other thing I found that helps is a jig to hold the project in place while you cut . I do not have capability to show Pics but sure someone else will know what I am talking about and can show you or you may have made one yourself. 

[Jim McDonald]

I cut some birdhouses using FD5UR and the only problems I had were self inflicted by pushing too hard on some of the finer details.

Cut those from 1.5" poplar.  Sometimes it is getting a feeling for THAT piece of wood and how the stars are aligned above your saw.

[NC Scroller]

While everyone will have an opinion on this reverse tooth blades are not designed for compound cutting.  To cut best you want a blade that removes as much sawdust as possible.  That is a skip tooth design like the FD  Polar.  The reverse tooth design pushes sawdust back in the cut on the up cut.

[meflick]

Ok, first - let's clarify on what you mean by "3-D" ornaments - are you talking about compound cut ornaments?  I think so, but just want to make sure.  If so, there were a couple of threads over the past year or so discussing and giving lots of good tips and information on cutting Compound ornaments.  If so, one of the big tips provided that I "missed" until I tried to cut my first ones is to "NOT use reverse tooth blades" but to use skip tooth blades. The polar blades are skip tooth blades.

Here is the thread with most of the good help and tips from several members here, in particular CharleyL, Bill Wilson, and dgman.  Charley gave detailed information with photos as I recall. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/24171-compound-cutting-wood/ It is well worth a read through for anyone who is just learning to cut compound cuts for sure.

Then in this thread, I showed my first compound cuts and asked why use skip tooth and not the reverse blades, and Bill Wilson gives a great explanation (which is why I am sharing link to that thread - not to show my work again 

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/27019-first-try-compound-cutting/?tab=comments#comment-298429

 

If you haven't found it yet, Steve Good has a 3-d or Compound Cut Birdhouse pattern - it is the first one I tried and show in that thread above.  I tried it because I thought it looked simple enough for me to try.  http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2017/12/compound-cut-bird-house-and-stand.html This same post on Steve's blog also has a link to his DIY clamp to help holding it while cutting out compound cuts as referenced by @bandaideman above

Edited December 4, 2018 by meflick

[Rolf]

Like Scott and Melanie said no reverse teeth.

[rjweb]

Thx for all the help, this site is the most helpful with knowledgeable people, RJ