Staining & Sanding Your Scroll Saw Projects

[Toothpick]

Now that I have a few projects cut I'm curious how y'all go about finishing them.

Sanding: I have a random orbital sander for the flat sides. I have been doing 220 grit (I think). How do y'all get inside the fretwork? Needle files? and around the outside edge of the piece?

Staining: I have the Minwax Pre-Stain and a couple different Minwax penetrating stains. First one I did turned out blotchy. I left it on for a few minutes and wiped it off just like the directions said to. My other question here is how do y'all stain the inside fretwork? I was thinking a tray full of stain that I can dip the piece in. I've got a piece of Birch plywood that is ready for staining but there is a bit of fretwork that I can't get stain to with just the foam brush.

Does anyone paint their scroll saw projects? If so what paint would you use?

Thanks for your time!

-Jason

[dgman]

Jason, I can’t help you with staining. I use hardwoods for most of my scrollsaw projects. Also with proper blade use and technique, I don’t need to sand inside cuts and rarely sand the outside. I use hardwoods that have a pleasing grain pattern and color. Then use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. This brings out the natural color and grain of the woods. When dry, I topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer.

[Toothpick]

I’ve read folks using nothing but danish oil. I can’t help but think it’s the same as staining though. You need to get it in the nooks and crannies. I’d very much like to avoid staining because the few times I did do it....I DID NOT enjoy it. I’ll have to get some danish oil and try it. 

 

[MrsN]

Sanding. 

One of the things that comes with cutting practice is smoother cuts that require less sanding. When I started out I used a variety of things to sand the inside of fret cuts; needle files, emery boards (for filing fingernails), sandpaper, sanding blades. Now a few years in I almost never use them. If I notice a part that needs sanding, I am as likely to put it back on the saw to clean up the cut as actually sand it. To remove the blade fuzzies from the back side, I use a mini butane torch to burn them then they sand off really nicely.

some of my favorites were

• https://www.amazon.com/SC91262BL-Scroll-Sander-4-Inch-Assorted/dp/B00CTGMOT8
• https://www.amazon.com/Olson-Saw-SC42101-Scroll-Files/dp/B000N6K39O
• https://www.amazon.com/Lumberton-12301-Sanding-Sticks-Standard/dp/B0039ZB24G

Stain

I don't stain often, so I am no expert. However, I find that if I stain the front and back with a really wet foam brush that most of the little frets get filled in. I think I took a q-tip once and got all of the little spaces, but it was too much work and the finished product wasn't better. From time to time I will stain a piece of plywood, then cut my project.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

21 minutes ago, Toothpick said:

I’ve read folks using nothing but danish oil. I can’t help but think it’s the same as staining though. You need to get it in the nooks and crannies. I’d very much like to avoid staining because the few times I did do it....I DID NOT enjoy it. I’ll have to get some danish oil and try it. 

 

Jason, if you use the proper blades for your project there should never be any sanding needed for the fret work. There may on occasion need to sand a bump down or something like that and people use needle files and some use emery boards if you can get in the area. Water stains do not work well with plywood or any fret worked wood as a matter of fact because it raises the grain. I too use only hardwoods and I am a huge Deft Danish Oil user. I have a container where I pour the oil in and just dip the project. I mainly use natural color. It is not clear but has an amber tint to it but for my projects it is perfect. Danish oil comes in colors but it does get pricey. I do not top coat because being I use hard woods I sand to 220 grit and when dipped the feel is a nice smooth luster and feel. No sanding after is needed. People do paint and some top coat with lacquer or poly. I will let them speak to that. 

[Toothpick]

You see, this is why online forums exist. Folks always have simple answers that you never thought of. Stain the board FIRST! Makes so much sense yet I never considered it. I’m leaning more toward the oil method anyway. 

I like the sanding sticks but I think the sanding blades would be a pain in the butt. I guess I won’t worry to much about it. Maybe I was just looking for a reason to use my orbital sander. 

[OCtoolguy]

6 hours ago, dgman said:

Jason, I can’t help you with staining. I use hardwoods for most of my scrollsaw projects. Also with proper blade use and technique, I don’t need to sand inside cuts and rarely sand the outside. I use hardwoods that have a pleasing grain pattern and color. Then use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. This brings out the natural color and grain of the woods. When dry, I topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer.

Dan, I want to try your method. The question I have is, do you mix up a batch of 50/50 and then store it that way? Is it ok to do that? What do you store it in? Can you buy the quart cans unlabeled or just use one of the cans that they come in? I know this may sound sort of dumb but I'm just curious.

 

[lawson56]

Jason,where i cut with thin wood, 1/4 inch I have to do some sanding.I use needle files and I use emory boards,Staining I have an old cake pan that I lay my plaques in then wipe off the stain. No ones complained yet.

[fredfret]

I use watco oil most of the time applied using the dip, wipe method. I rarely stain because it makes such a mess and I suck at it. Painting is reserved for toy cars there I use rattle cans or brush on acrylics starting to use rit dye and food coloring then spray shellac. 

[RabidAlien]

I use emery boards or needle files to sand the little fuzzies off the bottom of a project.  For staining, it depends on the size of the project.  If its small enough, I will put it in a gallon Ziploc bag, then pour stain/BLO in and slosh the whole thing around (be careful of creating too many bubbles).  This makes it easy to get stain or oil inside the fretwork openings.  For larger projects that won't fit in the bag, I have an old cookie sheet that my wife donated (so she could buy a new one, I think) that I'll put the project in, pour stain/oil directly over the top of the project (to get it inside the fretwork), then flip it over to get the other side.

[ike]

sanding fret work, if it needs sanding I use a sanding mop . a 6 inch style that I made it works real well . There is a a you tube that tells how to make one. use cloth back emery . I have a 150 grit because it is what I had. it cost about $16 to make but last for years.A new one will cost $15 to $30  if you buy one you would want one 5 to 6 inch one much smaller than that is too stiff.

IKE

[tomsteve]

i always sand the wood before cutting with 220. after cutting it doesnt take much sanding with 220 to get rid of any little fuzzies. ive never sanded edges after cutting. the blades leave a smooth surface. there have been times ive had to  stop and restart a cut and a little edge is left. in those situations i used the blade still in the saw to file/sand/cut that part smooth.

as for staining, when i do decide to stain a piece i dont use the prestain conditioner. i find it a waste of money. first things first,though- i use oil based stains so my pre stain conditioner is mineral spirits. ill lay the piece on a cookie sheet and either spray or pour some MS on the piece. let it soak in for about 30 seconds to a minute, then take out ,set on rags.paper towel, and blow it off. then set it in a pan and use a brush and brush the stain on the piece. it usually ends up with all interior cuts filled to the top with stain. then take it out, set it on rags or paper towel, wipe down and blow out, then let it dry. i have a board with a couple nails in it i usually hang the piece on to dry.

for the most part,though, i only used boiled linseed oil. no conditioning required but i use the same method as i do for stain.

[tomsteve]

12 hours ago, dgman said:

. Then use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. This brings out the natural color and grain of the woods. When dry, I topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer.

this does wonders for figured woods. my favorite is figured/curly/flame maple and this really gives it depth. a little more depth achieved by using an analine die prior to the BLO, then wet sanding with 600 grit with the BLO, then topcoat.

[Toothpick]

This whole time I was thinking you actually boiled the oil haha. Man I’m a complete newb! Sounds like there is no right or wrong way or better product to use. I can see myself with several shelves full of different oils, stains, paints until I find one I like. Such a rabbit hole! 

[MrsN]

17 minutes ago, Toothpick said:

This whole time I was thinking you actually boiled the oil haha. Man I’m a complete newb! Sounds like there is no right or wrong way or better product to use. I can see myself with several shelves full of different oils, stains, paints until I find one I like. Such a rabbit hole! 

It doesn't take long to get the shelf full of finishes!

[Bill WIlson]

There are so many options for finishing.  What you use will depend on what you want the piece to look like and what the finish needs to accomplish.  I use several methods, depending on the wood and the project.  I rarely stain, but when I do, I pour a little stain in a tray and using an old artist brush or foam brush, work it into all the frets.  Take it out, wipe it off, lay it on a paper towel and gently blow out the excess from the frets with compressed air.  I do pretty much the same process when using BLO or Danish oil.

My go to finish for most fretwork is shellac.  I spray it on with a spray gun, but spray cans are available most places that sell finishing products.  I like shellac for several reasons.  It dries very quickly, so I can spray several light coats from different angles to get complete coverage, without taking days waiting for it to dry and without getting an excess build up that causes drips and puddles.  Shellac clean up is a breeze.  Denatured alcohol will dissolve dried shellac.  I'll even use ammonia, diluted with water to clean the outside of my spray gun.  Frankly, I don't often clean the gun all that thoroughly, because all I need to do is spray a little denatured alcohol though it before I start spraying.

I have a couple spray guns that I dedicate only to spraying shellac, so I don't have issues with cross contamination from other solvents and/or products.  I use cheap guns and they work fine.  I have one from Grizzly and one from Home Depot.  I think I paid less than $20 for one and no more than $30 for the other.  Some folks say the spray guns from Harbor Freight work pretty well and they are even cheaper.

You can add color to shellac by mixing your own using dry flakes.  The flakes come in a wide variety of tones.  You can also mix alcohol based dyes with shellac and apply it with the spray gun.  I've never used the dyes, but I've mixed from flakes.  It isn't difficult.  Zinsser pre-mixed shellac is readily available from most stores that sell paint.  It comes in clear and amber color.  The amber is fairly dark, so sometimes I mix both if I want something in between.  There are all sorts of options.  If you are intimidated by the thought of spraying, don't be.  Spraying shellac is easier than spraying paint.  I often do it outside, as shellac isn't temperature dependent, like many other finishes.  Just needs to be dry and relatively low humidity for best results.  But I do occasionally spray in my shop.  The fumes are mild and dissipate rapidly, so that hasn't been a problem.  I contain the overspray with a make-shift spray booth made from an large cardboard box, but shellac dries to quickly that any overspray will be dust before it lands on stuff, so I don't get a sticky mess all over like you can get with slower drying spray products.

Sorry for the long-winded reply.  Hope this helps.