Asunsell Posted January 6, 2019 Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 So I’m brand new to scroll sawing but had the opportunity to purchase an almost new jet 22” scroll saw for a fraction of the price. I’ve been having a blast learning and practicing. So here goes my question, so I have been using Olsen blades and have been doing puzzles with a double reverse skip tooth, the problem I’ve had is that the reverse teeth are located so far down on on the blade that they don’t come up above the table on the stroke so I’m not getting the benefit of the reverse tooth and getting quite a bit of tear out. I’ve tried to set the blade as high in the holder as possible but it still isn’t coming up in the stroke. Am I doing something wrong with this saw or do I need to use a different blade, or brand of blade ? Hope this made sense Thanks Adam OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal560sl Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 I read on one of Steve Good's blogs that one of the problems he found on the new Jet scroll saw was that the table is set a little too high for the reverse teeth to work properly. I remember him saying that he tried setting the blade as high as possible in the lower blade holder, but it wasn't enough to compensate. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotshot Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 How thick of puzzles are you cutting? If you are doing traditional thin puzzles, you want a narrow kerf, so you will want to be using the Flying Dutchman puzzle blades. These are not reverse teeth, but they don't seems to splinter badly. You could always try Flying Dutchman FDUR blades which have reverse teeth mixed in all up and down the blade. RabidAlien, OCtoolguy and Asunsell 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asunsell Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Sounds to me like blade manufacturers just need to make the clamping tabs longer and then the problem would be solved. Then you could just snip off the excess depending on your saw. jist ordered a variety pack of their blades with the mixed teeth to well see how it goes OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asunsell Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 I have done the same by trying to set the blade as high as possible but it wouldn’t reach. Puzzles aren’t thick so far because I’m still practicing maybe 1/2in. How would crown tooth blades work ? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredfret Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 They only cut on the down stroke. Put a backer on your project before cutting and the tearout will be reduced ( I use painters tape or a piecd of cereal box cardboard) The other way is to use a zero clearance hole where the blade goes thru the table This will reduce the tearout but not totally eliminate it. Flying Dutchman ultra reverse will work fine with that saw. The reverse teeth are only missing coming thru the table by a very small amount (I don't have a Jet so I can only go by what I have heard). Good luck Fredfret Wichita, Ks OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodmaster1 Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 I don't know if the new pegas blade holder for the jet scroll saw would help. The upgrade to pegas blade holder would make blades changes easier no more barrel to hold the blade. Asunsell and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjweb Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 I have the jet saw and mainly use skip tooth olson blades, seem to work well, RJ OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asunsell Posted January 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 Thanks everyone for the advice! Just ordered the bottom clamp from Pegasus and some Flying Dutchman blades. Well see how this works OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) There was also a discussion about adjusting the upper arm so that it is parallel to the table. Check page 14 in the manual Jet Saw manual.pdfJet Saw manual.pdf It may be out of alignment affecting the blade position. Edited January 8, 2019 by Rolf OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerrye Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) I have this saw. As Scott said above, the Jet has this shortcoming inherent in its design. No adjustment or special setup will change this. AFAIK, no other saw has this issue. I've not yet tried FD Ultra reverse (Steve Good's suggestion in his review of the Jet), but I plan to. This isn't a significant issue for me yet. I am using Pegas MG blades, and although the reversed teeth never come in contact with the wood, I get little to no tearout. I too will be getting the Pegas clamp set, both upper and lower. If they can be installed in such a way as to engage the bottom teeth, I'll report it here. Edited January 8, 2019 by jerrye NC Scroller, OCtoolguy and Asunsell 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asunsell Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks everyone for the advice! Just received the Pegasus bottom blade holder in the mail from your recommendation and I installed it. I am happy to report that the bottom teeth now engage the wood. Yay !! Not all of them but at least 2-3 teeth engage. I also feel that it cuts smoother now with less vibration. Now this could be my imagination because the saw was great before but the cuts seem more accurate and true now. I have been Thinking about the existing design of the bottom blade holder. Because the bottom holder is not secured in such a way as to prevent the barrel of the holder from rotating, it would cause the blade to deflect and rotate while in use... so not as accurate cut. With the Pegasus holder the blade is not able to move all below. So in theory a more accurate cut. In any case I’m happy with the purchase. I’m sticking with the top holder for the time being. jerrye and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iScroller Posted March 23, 2020 Report Share Posted March 23, 2020 Let's dig this topic out. Just received a Pegas Chucks set (this one) and installed it on my JWSS-22. What's strange - is that the back of the blade almost touches the top of the blade hole in the table. So original clamps are about 7-8 mm longer than Pegas ones. Am I the only person with this problem? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 On most scroll saws you can loosen the table bolts and move the table. Asunsell did you ever resolve the arm adjustment and reverse tooth issue? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sycamore67 Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Instead of a reverse tooth blade, I use the Flying Dutchman ultra reverse blade. Every third tooth is a reverse one. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iScroller Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 33 minutes ago, Rolf said: On most scroll saws you can loosen the table bolts and move the table. I've tried that. No luck - the holes for the bolts don't allow to move the table in the required direction. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iScroller Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 Guys, I have another problem now. No matter what I do with top and bottom set screws - I can't make the blade move vertically. On down stroke the blade pushes the blank to the left for about 1 mm or a bit less. I took off the bottom clamp and recorded the video attached. Is it ok at all to behave like shown? Any ideas? IMG_5257.MOV OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 10 hours ago, iScroller said: Guys, I have another problem now. No matter what I do with top and bottom set screws - I can't make the blade move vertically. On down stroke the blade pushes the blank to the left for about 1 mm or a bit less. I took off the bottom clamp and recorded the video attached. Is it ok at all to behave like shown? Any ideas? IMG_5257.MOV Does it have much movement with the clamp in place? I'm thinking that the whole mechanism depends on being complete. Yours does seem a bit "wobbly" but it should tighten up with all pieces in place and snugged up. Have you adjusted the set screws on both clamps so they are in alignment? Very important that they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 I might also suggest that you start a new topic with appropriate title since this one is almost 2 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben2008 Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 (edited) I know some scroller's frown on this blade. But if all else fails try the Olson "Crown Tooth" blade. It cuts on the up and down stroke and leaves a smooth edge. I have used this blade successfully many times. It is not my go-to blade. But what the heck, give it a try. "Unique tooth design allows the blade to cut on both the up and down stroke. ... Cuts a little slower for more control, useful in delicate fretwork. Finish is smooth with clean, sharp, splinter-free edges in hard/soft wood, plywood, plastic and Corian®." Slow the speed down and also feed a little slower. Olson makes a 2/0 in this style also. Edited December 17, 2020 by ben2008 OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse and or their Two Way Cut blades would solve the issue.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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